The glorious Empress Market

Dawn.com Published February 7, 2011
Due to encroachments and lack of maintenance, the Empress Market looks worn down especially the steps by the main entrance.
Due to encroachments and lack of maintenance, the Empress Market looks worn down especially the steps by the main entrance.
Initially, when the market was established, any encroachment along the walkways was strictly forbidden. This ensured that the Empress Market remained clean and organised.
Initially, when the market was established, any encroachment along the walkways was strictly forbidden. This ensured that the Empress Market remained clean and organised.
Fruits and vegetables sold at Empress Market are very fresh and nominally priced when compared to other markets in the city. Also available are difficult-to-find items such as portobello mushrooms, asparagus, broccoli and avocados.
Fruits and vegetables sold at Empress Market are very fresh and nominally priced when compared to other markets in the city. Also available are difficult-to-find items such as portobello mushrooms, asparagus, broccoli and avocados.
Fruits and vegetables from all parts of the country are sold here. However, due to the meat and chicken section close by ? it is advisable to thoroughly wash all items before consumption, to avoid serious diseases.
Fruits and vegetables from all parts of the country are sold here. However, due to the meat and chicken section close by ? it is advisable to thoroughly wash all items before consumption, to avoid serious diseases.
Culinary enthusiasts and restaurateurs can be seen trawling through the market each week, picking out the freshest of lemons, tomatoes, eggplants and other supplies.
Culinary enthusiasts and restaurateurs can be seen trawling through the market each week, picking out the freshest of lemons, tomatoes, eggplants and other supplies.
Not for the faint-hearted, the meat section sells everything from cow feet and tongues to kidney, liver and brain. The mutton and beef, supplied from a slaughterhouse nearby, is sold at wholesale rates.
Not for the faint-hearted, the meat section sells everything from cow feet and tongues to kidney, liver and brain. The mutton and beef, supplied from a slaughterhouse nearby, is sold at wholesale rates.
According to some of the shop owners, the recent price hike in the country is because meat is being smuggled to Afghanistan and other countries.
According to some of the shop owners, the recent price hike in the country is because meat is being smuggled to Afghanistan and other countries.
The fish section in Empress was recently moved to another market down the street. King lobsters from Pakistan are of good quality and exported worldwide. Lobsters caught in Kalmat, Balochistan ? known as Kalmati ? are exported to Japan and other South Asian countries.
The fish section in Empress was recently moved to another market down the street. King lobsters from Pakistan are of good quality and exported worldwide. Lobsters caught in Kalmat, Balochistan ? known as Kalmati ? are exported to Japan and other South Asian countries.
A variety of tea from Kenya, Bangladesh and Indonesia can be found here. Prices depend on the blend, quality and taste.
A variety of tea from Kenya, Bangladesh and Indonesia can be found here. Prices depend on the blend, quality and taste.
Although rice and grains are available at the wholesale rates, there can be no guarantees that it won?t be infested with flies.
Although rice and grains are available at the wholesale rates, there can be no guarantees that it won?t be infested with flies.
Powdered spices such as chilli, tumeric and cumin are piled high ? like colourful hills. Be warned, sneezing in this section is given ? with the amount of spices inevitably inhaled while walking through.
Powdered spices such as chilli, tumeric and cumin are piled high ? like colourful hills. Be warned, sneezing in this section is given ? with the amount of spices inevitably inhaled while walking through.
At most of the stores, shopping for groceries here is done in the old-school way, which means no browsing through aisles but instead coming prepared with a detailed grocery list. A worker from the shop will pull out the items as the customers sit, perched on wooden chairs.
At most of the stores, shopping for groceries here is done in the old-school way, which means no browsing through aisles but instead coming prepared with a detailed grocery list. A worker from the shop will pull out the items as the customers sit, perched on wooden chairs.
The storage facilities or warehouse for each of the shops are underneath the actual store. Walking along the narrow lanes inside the market, it is not uncommon to see small stone steps leading into the underground space.
The storage facilities or warehouse for each of the shops are underneath the actual store. Walking along the narrow lanes inside the market, it is not uncommon to see small stone steps leading into the underground space.
How can any market be complete without the requisite roadside stall that sells insecticides, rodent and mice traps along with pocket mirrors and combs?
How can any market be complete without the requisite roadside stall that sells insecticides, rodent and mice traps along with pocket mirrors and combs?
Chai, the essential drink before, during and after meals is available throughout the day. A worker from the tea shop goes around delivering tea to all parts of the market ? just like in Bohri Bazaar.
Chai, the essential drink before, during and after meals is available throughout the day. A worker from the tea shop goes around delivering tea to all parts of the market ? just like in Bohri Bazaar.

Inaugurated in 1889, the Empress Market in Saddar was built to house shops selling groceries and daily household items such as fruits, vegetables as well as utensils used in cooking. The building, made from made from limestone blocks, is a stunning reminder of Victorian architecture that once dotted the city.

A historical monument in the city, Empress Market deserves much attention and needs to be restored to its original glory. – Text by Suhail Yusuf, photographs by Eefa Khalid and Nadir Siddiqui / Dawn.com

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Comments (4) Closed
i bawkher
Feb 07, 2011 10:53pm
It is shameful/regretable -that the Karachi city authorities are in -competent not to be able to maintain /protect - its inherited treasures given to it in 1947 .
Recommend 0
AM
Feb 08, 2011 02:59am
Wow, what a wonderful set of photos. Certainly takes me back down the memory lane. I lived not far from this market and walked through there all the time. Of course I moved to US at a young age but still vividly and affectionately remember this great place. Back then it was safe unlike now! Brought my children here. They are goras but they enjoyed it tremendously. I wish some things didn't change. Wonder if the Humdard pharmacy is still around?
Recommend 0
GKrishnan
Feb 08, 2011 06:28pm
Very similar in style and construction, and the shops and people too, not forgetting the Clock, like New Market in Calcutta, which preceded Empress Market by just a few years. May people be able to move freely between the two cities that have these majestic buildings, sooner rather than later.
Recommend 0
NuLife
Feb 09, 2011 03:35pm
Love these pictures. I have lived here all my life.(Still live very near) Back in 80's , Russian nationals from Steel mill ,throng this market & Shahabuddin Market, now relocated. I love the cool n calm structure of the inside market. It was fun to visit Fish market, which is also relocated. I wish empress market be renovated & Shahubuddin market & fish market be placed again as before.
Recommend 0

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