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The Kalash are spread over three valleys along the border with Afghanistan.—Herald Photo
BUMBORET VALLEY: Nestled among the valleys of Pakistan’s mountainous northwest, a tiny religious community that claims descent from Alexander the Great’s army is under increasing pressure from radicals bent on converting them to Islam.
The Kalash, who number just about 3,500 in Pakistan’s population of 180 million, are spread over three valleys along the border with Afghanistan.
For centuries they practiced polytheism and animal sacrifice without interference from members of Pakistan’s Muslim majority.
But now they are under increasing danger from proselytising Muslim militants just across the border, and a hardline interpretation of Islam creeping through mainstream society —as Pook Shireen discovered.
After falling unconscious during a car accident, the mid-20s member of the paramilitary Chitral Scouts woke to find that people with him had converted him to Islam.
“Some of the Muslim people here try to influence the Kalash or encourage them by reading certain verses to them from the Quran,” said his mother, Shingerai Bibi.
“The men that were with him read verses of the Quran and then when he woke up they said to him, ‘You are a convert now to Islam’. So he converted.”
The conversion was a shock for his family. But they were lucky compared with other religious minorities under threat from growing religious conservatism that is destabilising Pakistan.
In May 2010, more than 80 Ahmadis were killed in attacks on two worship places in Lahore.
Then in March this year, the Christian minorities minister, Shahbaz Bhatti, whose job it was to protect groups like the Kalash, was assassinated outside his home in the capital, Islamabad.
Smooth co-existence
The lush green Kalash valleys, which sit below snow-capped peaks of the Hindu Kush, have been a magnet for tourists, both for the scenery and for the people, who are indigenous to the area.
Most are fair and with light eyes, which they say proves their descent from the army of Alexander of Macedonia that passed through the area in the 4th century BC to invade India.
The community brews its own wine and women are not veiled.
But the smooth co-existence between the Kalash and Muslims has been fading in recent months and the area is suffering from many of the religious tensions marring the rest of Pakistan.
The conversions are causing splits among the Kalash —converts become outcasts overnight, described by many as “dead to their families”.
“When a Kalash converts we don’t live with them in our houses anymore,” said farmer Asil Khan, sitting on a neighbour’s balcony.
“Our festivals and our culture are different. They can’t take part in the festivals or the way we live.”
Some in the area are so concerned that they believe segregation is the only way to protect the Kalash.
“We should move the Muslims out of the valley to make more room for the Kalash,” said Shohor Gul, a Kalash member of the border police who lives in Rumbur valley.
“This area should be just for us. We dislike these conversions – it disturbs our culture and our festivals, and it reduces our numbers.”
The subject of Kalash festivals is raised often in these narrow valleys, where carefully cultivated corn crops cover what flat land exists, and the Kalash community’s distinctive wooden houses terrace the valley walls.
Held to usher in seasonal change or to pray for a good harvest, Kalash festivals include hypnotic dancing and animal sacrifice, fuelled by the grape wine with which the Kalash lace their gatherings.
Converts to Islam say, though, that these rituals quicken the decision to leave the Kalash.
“The main thing wrong in the Kalash culture are these festivals,” said 29-year-old convert Rehmat Zar. “When someone dies the body is kept in that house for three days.”
Muslims usually bury people the day they die. Zar added of the Kalash: “They slaughter up to a hundred goats and the family are mourning – but those around them are celebrating, beating drums, drinking wine and dancing. Why are they celebrating this? That’s wrong.”
Not all Muslims
Not all of the area’s Muslims feel this way. Qari Barhatullah is the imam, or priest, at the Jami Masjid in Bumboret valley’s Shikanandeh village.
He stresses that many of the valley’s Muslims value the Kalash’s contributions to the area’s tourism industry and contends that Kalash festivals run parallel to their own.
He admits though that there is tension between the two communities. Unveiled Kalash girls in colourful homemade skirts and head-dresses grow up alongside Muslim women covered by the all-enveloping burqas.
The Kalash girls are also free to marry who they chose, in a country where arranged marriages are common.
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Islam is very clear about the issue of conversions and the treatment of non-Muslims otherwise:
“Let there be no compulsion in religion. Truth has been made clear from error. Whoever rejects false worship and believes in God has grasped the most trustworthy handhold that never breaks. And God hears and knows all things.” (Quran 2:256)
"Whoever hurts a Non-Muslim citizen of a Muslim state hurts me, and he who hurts me annoys God." (Bukhari)
"He who hurts a Non-Muslim citizen of a Muslim state, I am his adversary, and I shall be his adversary on the Day of a Judgement." (Bukhari)
Hope the so-called 'ultra-orthodox' Muslims follow the teachings of Islam.
In first place, I would like to clarify that islam promotes peace and harmony not only within Muslims but also with non-muslims. Priciple of religious freedom should be stongly upheld, no body should be forcibly converted unless noe wants so. Secondly, those who are attacking minorities like ahmadis are also not sparing sharines, so should not be linked with Islam.
I am with international forces fighting fanatics.Government of Pakistan will do well to protect Kalash people.They have a history of minimum crime rate in the world.Their dancing and cultural abilities will become a history,if they leave their culture. Tourism in Pakistan will also suffer.
It is sad – very sad. Would 3,500 less muslims make any difference ? Thousands of ancient cultures, monuments and languages exist in the world and they must have been created by Allah only. Do you want the future Kalash people to convert and then deny their roots just as the muslims of Swat and Taxila have nothing to do with the Buddhist history and monuments around them.
Muslims and all others are under threat from these Talibans. They bring nothing but misery to everyone. They have no place in this modern world.
Hey, Please if anyone can help by telling if there is any research done on women on kalat and where can I find it online.
Thanks
why it is so important to belong to same religion? What would happen if all the flowers would be roses and nothing else?
Religion is made for us the people to live. By converting others forcibly religion is being defiled here. I think religion is more a way of life/lifestyle than the life itself.
I like your example of roses. I think this split between people on the basis of beliefs is the part of the nature and we al know nature is also a creation of God.
Islam is not coercion-force Allah says in Quraan La Ikra Fiddin-Relgion is not by Force. Let we learn to preach and teach humanity. We must tell right things and practice right inshaalah people will come as Nabi(SAW) time how he behave and whole Hijaj came in fold of islam.
Hope sanity will prevail
Mehtass
Please dont turn Pakistan in to a hell for minorities. Kalasha are a peaceful people, they do not bother anyone. Leave them alone with their beaufitul and colorful culture. destroying their religion and culture is a crime against Islam and humanity.
Don't destroy ur history, people should teach fanatics a lesson of tolerance. Govt should do more to protect the tribe.
We Muslims should respect other religions and its tradition, that will create a good image about Islam which is not good at this time.
When they talk about minorities being targeted they often forget the attacks on various shrines and processions in Multan, Lahore and Karachi etc. It is strange that the author and similar like minded people only quote the attacks on the ahmadis as if they were the sole victims of terrorism in the past years. Terrorism is terrorism and is the same for minorities and majorities. People of Pakistan or the government cannot be blamed for the insecurity of minorities. Yes, if the minorities were the only victim (and the majority was secured)then it could be regarded as hostility towards minorities.
Unfortunately its the responsibility of the cook how to cook the vegetables. We don't have good cooks. Islam has got beautiful festivals as well but we don't have those minds
live and let live… why do you need to tell each and everyone what is good in your religion… if they like it they will fetch it… thats the prob with majority Muslim population… they can't tolerate people from other sects,religion, cultures, origins…
You are right coz truth is different from lies
Please do not act like you are the sole custodian of truth or as though only muslims have God on their speed dial. If God wanted everyone to talk, walk, eat, sleep, dress, and behave like Arabs, he'd not have created such a diverse world. A closed mind is the biggest insult to God.
You have your truth, I have mine.
If I become majority, then I will make sure to convert you to my faith; if this the way you think is right..
Islam promotes tolerance. Indigenous people were converted in USA, Canada, Australia, etc etc. Islam has maintained relations with all other people.
The problem us people are angry, they are letting their anger out in a wrong way.
Growing intolerence towards non-muslims in Pakistan should be actively discouraged. Peaceful minorities have every right to live and work in the Country as anyone else. Some banned organizations ahve taken it upon themselves to enforce bigoted views on minorities to persecute them because they feel they have a beef with the West on discriminating and tageting Muslims around the World.
bigoted people are not only threatening minorities but other people of Pakistan
Kalash are 23 hundred years old very precious ethnic treasure for Pakistan — please Pakistan don't let it be looted in 2011 by the Talibans as they did to another treasure – the Bamiyani Buddha.
@Nasah Bamian Buddha were destroyed in Afghanistan. Not Pakistan.
@Asif – i dont think Nasah conveyed that Bamiyan were in pakistan. He only gave an example of talibans destroying ethnic treasures when they did destroyed the Buddha statue in Afghanistan.. possibly they are on the verge of doing to the Kalash's in pakistan now.
Based on what Sam, your Islamophobia?
Nasah!
Let us hope that your comments are read by all concerned and the beauty (Kalash) of Pakistan is preserved and not enforced to live under enforcing situation.
May be it is time for the Muslim women of the valley to learn freedom of choice from the Kalash women.
Converting the Kalash: Diversity should be regarded as a blessing. Diversity is a strength and beauty of a society. Diversity is a safeguard against forces of extremism of any kind. Therefore the act of proselytization, which may be religious or any of sorts, is detrimental to positive progress of mankind. And be considered as a hurdle in natural process of human evolution.