Katas: The Hindu Temples
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I have a deep fascination with temples, ruins and ancient landmarks. Ever since exploring the Aztec and Mayan ruins and pyramids in Mexico, my obsession with knowing more about the decaying areas of the world has increased tenfold. Erosion is a look into the depths of history and answers many questions about our origins as people. However, the one area I have not burrowed into extensively, until this year, is my homeland, Pakistan.
Pakistan is rich in heritage, history, culture and is the inheritor of one of the oldest civilizations in the world: the Indus civilization. We have archaic ruins and cities that are practically antediluvian, such as Moenjodaro and Taxila, but we also have one of the most beautiful and neglected temples I have ever come across during travel exploration: the Katasraj Mandir.
I began my trek to the salt range with two explorer friends, bottles of water and home made sandwiches. Once we had walked through the underground, dark wonders of the salt mines we emerged into a blazing Punjabi sun, well on our way to the sacred temples of Katas. We had to ask around quite vigorously, because the innocent and curious pedestrians carrying hay and goats on their backs kept pointing us in the wrong direction. I knew I would not leave Punjab without laying my eyes on this mandir. It had called out to me, and I was going to succumb to it’s visual splendor.
The complex and architecturally wondrous temple was located in the village of Katas in the Chakwal district of glorious Punjab. It was perched steeply, above the surrounding rugged and rural landscape, shining in all its forgotten glory, awaiting visitors, pilgrims and tourists. The large temple dates back to 6th century AD and the smaller, but in no way insignificant temples, are much more recent, having been built around 900 years ago.
There are beautiful legends and stories attributed to the romanticism and highly charged energy engulfing the deserted mandirs, involving characters from the Mahabarat, but the most important, and my personal favourite, tale is that of Lord Shiva’s tears. It is said that at the death of his wife, Sati, Lord Shiva was so devastated, he cried hysterically and his tears formed a holy pool of water at the foot of the temples, where many a pilgrim bathed to seek salvation. Unfortunately, as we entered the space in which the temples were enclosed, with our soft footsteps and ever-ready cameras, we were met with the demise of Shiva’s tears. The water was heavily polluted and most of it had been pumped out for industrial purposes. A starving duck was struggling to get out of it’s murkiness, as two men drained away what seemed to be the last of “Shiva’s tears.”
It should be noted that the disappearance of this sacred pool and the overall neglect of the temples has disappointed Hindus in more ways than one. These sites, including the surrounding areas and the salt range, have unearthed fossils, artifacts, weaponry and treasures, and are representative of human history and heritage. A heritage that is now largely ignored because Pakistan is slowly, but surely, losing the voice of it’s minorities; negligence of sacred sites such as these is a prime example of the indifference we are facing as a nation. In fact, many Hindu families have complained of their marginalised plight, lack of freedom of religion, desecration of holy sites and the desire to leave Pakistan for greener pastures: India. It is estimated that in 1951 Hindus made up at least 22 per cent of Pakistan’s population (Bangladesh included) and now their population has decreased to a measly 1.7 per cent.
Any other place in the world and highly informed archeologists and paleontologists would be brought in to conduct thorough research, providing us with answers from century old times. In the face of these fundamentally intolerant times, not even the statues and faces of the gods/goddesses remain in the temple complex. I hope that in seeing and observing the photography conducted in this area, you will be able to take a visual journey into what stimulated me most during my recent travels to Pakistan.
Photos by Mariam Magsi – http://www.mariammagsi.com
Mariam Magsi is a photographer, writer and curator working in Canada. Her professional work can be viewed at http://www.mariammagsi.com. She is the recipient of a prestigious publication award from the “World Poetry Movement” for poetic works highlighting natural disasters in Pakistan.
The views expressed by this blogger and in the following reader comments do not necessarily reflect the views and policies of the Dawn Media Group.
Sanjib;
I don't think India has more mosques than Pakistan, you don't really know, how ever if you keep chanting it, it would become a truth. The Hindus in Pakistan are much better off than the Muslims in India. just your ongoing massacre in Assam has killed more Muslims than hHindus killed in Pakistan since partition.
Why I see so much Hindu/India appeasment on Dawn?
The pictures are beautiful, thanks for them..
I don't want any time or money to be wasted on restoring these rocks. Instead put in the effort to improve the situation of people of my land, on both side of the border.
I have been to this Mandir a couple of weeks back. I am Janjua Rajpoot from Village of Tehsil: Kahuta Distt: Rawalpindi. Our great forefather Raja Dhrupet Dev after loose his kingdom at Mathura State in India conquered Salt Ranges and established his capital at Katasraj Temple and then his son Raja Mal Dev converted to Islam and had four sons among whom his kingdom was divided. Resultantly his children inherited Malot, Rawalpindi, Kahuta, Mansehra and Parts of Kashmir. It clearly shows that this Mandir does not only belong to India but it reminds us of our past and glorious periods of our forefathers. Just shutting the eyes like a pigeon won’t make us Arabs. We share our blood and history with Indians. They are our brothers. Only way both countries can attain prosperity is through promoting shared values.
Do you mean – converting to Islam is culture/values? If yes, I feel sorry for people like you…………
@Dawn says “An average Indian Muslim will not leave India for Pakistan….”. I beg to differ. I personally know average Indian Muslim families who left India for Pakistan after the Bombay riots and Babri Mosque incident. These were educated and well to do people and we always found it amusing that they would support India in cricket matches against Pakistan.
Pretty sure They are regretting it now.
Thank you so much for sharing …… I hope some day I can visit Hindu temples in Pakistan
Amazing pics…Dil karta hai kash ek bar pakistan jake apni aakho se jagah aur log dono ko dekhu..chahe kitni bhi nafrat ho hamare bich..but that fact is Pakistan fascinates me …Its like two real brothers burnt their bridges…but still in private some time they long for each other…
To all the Hindus here:
We do not destroy your temples. The above photos can be "credited" to the neglect by our cultural and heritage department. It is soley on their shoulders the state of these temples. All they do is sleep all day in offices. Even our own heritage sites are more or less in these conditions.
in India The Pakastani President comes to pray at AJMER SHARIF, can one say the same for Pakistan in terms of any other religion?
Yes
Next to vanish from it land's are Shia and ahmedi. And this bitter truth……..then women….
It seems like Mariam does not have any job except digging these thousand years old temples. I wish she visit India and see the worst conditions of temples. First of all, these temples are several thousand years old, second most of the educated Hindus do not care much about these idols and rocks, and third the priority for most of the Indians and Pakistanis are feeding children not caring about these idols and rocks. India looks after Taj Mahal because it generates billions of dollars in revenue. Most of the well-known temples are funded by people not by government. Mariam tried to win the heart of Hindus hoping to get some tips. Good Luck
Bravo .. you read my mind!
The crux of the matter is that almost all Pakistanis have converted from Hinduism to Islam (even though they deny this fact) and therefore, like all converts, they bend overbackwards to prove their allegiance to their new religion. In the case of Pakistan, and most muslim countries, this has often involved destruction or neglect of anything that reminded them of their past religious allegiances. Reglious monuments are a very powerful reminder to converts of their past which they, their leaders and their benefactors would like to wipe out of their minds forever!
Excellent article and great pictures Mariam. I'd like to see more of these pictures. It's very sad to see the state of these temples. Hope things get better in Pakistan and for the minorities.
first of all i congratulate the author for such a beautiful article. as for as Pakistani Muslims are considered they are hopeless. All Hindus living in pakistan should leave pakistan and come to India.
you are welcome!!!!!
i wish some day i can visit some the rich cherished history that we shared before the lines were drawn and bloods were shed..
There si no point in crying over spilt milk. Hinusim is finished in Pakistan! In an islamic country there will be no place of any other religion or places of worship! Hindus should concentrate on preserving what they have in India!