In Pakistan, underground parties push the boundaries
People dance to the beat of the house music at Centrifuge, a Pakistani underground rave party at a farmhouse on the outskirts of Pakistan’s capital, Islamabad early July 15, 2012. — Photo by Reuters
ISLAMABAD: Women in short skirts and men with gelled hair bump and grind on a dance floor as a disc jockey pumps up the volume.
The air is thick with illicit smoke and shots of hard liquor are being passed around. Couples cuddle in a lounge.
This is not Saturday night at a club in New York, London or Paris.
It is the secret side of Pakistan, a Muslim nation often described in the West as a land of bearded, Islamic hardmen and repressed, veiled women.
Starting in the 1980s, Pakistan has been drifting towards a more conservative interpretation of Islam that has reshaped the political landscape, fuelled militancy and cowed champions of tolerance into silence.
But the country remains home to a large wealthy and Westernised elite that, in private, lives very differently.
Every weekend, fashion designers, photographers, medical students and businessmen gather at dozens of parties in Islamabad, Karachi and Lahore to push social boundaries in discreet surroundings that would horrify, and enrage, advocates of the stricter brand of Islam.
“This is just epic,” said Numair Shahzada, bobbing his head to the beat at a party in a farmhouse outside Islamabad as fitness instructors moonlighting as bouncers looked on. “The light and smoke show is phenomenal.”
Young men and women mix freely, dancing, talking or drinking. Some curl up together in quiet areas.
Although alcohol is prohibited in the country, many have brought their own liquor. Whisky is carried in paper bags and vodka is disguised in water bottles arranged along the dance floor.
The party-goers form only a tiny minority of the country’s 180 million people, but overall, Pakistan is not repressive.
Women can drive, are enrolled in universities and have played prominent roles in politics. Unmarried men and women can interact without risking the wrath of religious police.
People from its most populous province, Punjab, are renowned for their exuberance.
But a conservative form of Islam is chipping away at the tolerance.
A few hours drive from Islamabad’s party circuit, parts of remote tribal regions have fallen under the sway of hardline Taliban militants, who dream of toppling the US-backed government and creating a society where revellers would face flogging, or worse.
“Men and women who dance together are damned by God. Whenever we see such displays of vulgarity we will definitely make them a target,” said a senior Taliban commander.
Creeping Conservatism
While the vast majority of Pakistanis abhor the Taliban’s violence, there are many who share their belief that Islam should be Pakistan’s guiding force.
Religious parties, which do poorly at the polls but exert considerable sway over public debate, believe Islam should govern all spheres of life.
“It’s so messed up,” said Myra, a 23-year-old Pakistani who has dyed her hair reddish-brown. “You see the servants and the drivers at the parties watching you and you wonder what kind of a person they think you are.”
To avoid prying eyes, the kind of alcohol-fuelled blow-outs enjoyed by Myra and her friends are held in lonely farm-houses in the outskirts of Islamabad and other cities, or in affluent neighbourhoods behind high walls.
Organisers charge on average a $60 entry fee, an amount most Pakistanis earn in a month.
Rafia, petite with long, black hair and wearing tight jeans and a low-cut black blouse, is a regular on the party scene.
She frowns on women who carry secret cell phones unmonitored by their parents and wear revealing outfits under conservative dress that come off before getting on the dance floor.
“You can either be God-fearing or you can party,” she said, taking a drag on a marijuana joint at a recent rave.
“I don’t pray regularly and I usually stick to my fast. But at the end of the day, I don’t say I am a very religious person.”
Not everyone agrees.
Bina Sultan, 40, an attractive fashion designer, showcases nude paintings and topless male models in shows. She also wears a silver pendant engraved with a verse from the Koran.
“People think I am shameless but I am actually very religious,” she said at her studio, peppering her sentences with “jaani”, Urdu for darling, while chain smoking.
“My faith is very strong. But everything I do is between my God and me.”
Lonely Liberal
Conservatism began sweeping through Pakistan during the military dictatorship of General Mohammad Zia ul-Haq in the 1980s under a drive to Islamise the state.
Zia’s policies are widely blamed for a creeping culture of intolerance that has further isolated liberals.
In the growing climate of fear, the space for liberal voices is shrinking.
Pakistani rapper Adil Omar, who attends weekend parties, pokes fun of the Taliban and rising conservatism in his songs. But he never goes too far.
“A lot of people seem to be torn and seem to have an identity crisis,” said Omar, who wears the traditional flowing shirt and baggy trousers. His elaborate forearm tatoo featuring a semi-naked woman and a unicorn has drawn fire on his Facebook page from some fans who see it as an offence to Islam.
“I am careful not to give any opinions regarding religion on the record,” he said, adding: “I don’t want some crazy person chopping off my head.”
The article is smelling of jealousy and looks to have an anti pakistan agenda. We have so many critical issues like religious extremism, unemployment, education etc. Similarly whats happening to Christians and hindus in our country and now those same extremists people now trying to separate and bring rifts between fellow muslims .the list doesn’t stop and now some people want to extend the list with giving importance to what .05% of population is doing.I beg, please don’t worry about what others are doing on the other hand worry about what you are doing to make your lives peaceful and try to gain maximum economic benefits the country can provide. Focussing on Economic growth reduces the time of discussing and focussing in other people lives. Even for a minute if we can stop people from doing what the article is saying, would we be able to advise and stop people to do this outside our areas or country? Then why waste time giving importance to our small lives which would mean nothing.
Most people commenting here need to look up the word ‘GENERALISATION’.
I wonder the hypocrisy of people saying they are religious and then smoke, drink and dress half naked. May Allah (SWT) guide us all to the straight path.
The path of those whom Thou hast favored and Not (the path) of those who earn your anger nor of those who go astray.
May God bless us.
lets put this article in perspective. As a neutral observer should. Pakistan is a country of 180 million muslims. With 99% middle class and poor people. The rich 1% which in pakistan are mostly result of corruption want to forget that there is any Akhira and want to party. Well in my opinion if they want to do this kind of stuff they should do it in europe or america or in the boundary of their houses.
I see dawn has responded to my comment and have blurred the snap. good to know you guys follow the feedback. Cheers
Good to see that atleast some young people are having fun. The "haters" who post here are typical of middle class socio-religious mentality (atleast middle classes of Pakistan). If they cant have a good time, they gotta put down everyone else, in the name of Allah.
What a joke.
Whats up with your hate against the middle class
touche…
“socio-religious” mentality ? mind elaborating what you mean by that ? And what makes you think one can’t have a good time without booze and drugs ?
The idle rich are the same world over!
Most but not all
Please let people enjoy and dance, they will have more positive energy.
We are humans and have the right to pick and choose the way we live. If we want to pray or party, no one else should have the right to dictate……
Pakistan is NOT the only Muslim country. UAE, Bahrain, Kuwait, Oman, Indonesia, Malyasia and several other Muslim countries still give liberty to live the way YOU like to live……So, please lets not make religion, an excuse and blame others for for their actions just because YOU do not agree with it.
We agree that Pakistan is a democratic state and every man and woman 'should' have the right to live they way they choose. If they are doing it in their back yards and not disturbing your peace then what is the issue. They will be responsible for their actions on the judgement day themselves.
We need to stop looking over other people shoulders and criticize them for the way they live their lives. Lets be responsible about our selves ONLY and how good of a Muslim citizen of Pakistan we are…..
Why do we need to copy West in bad things. Why not copy good things. Most want to escape from reality. Where as reality is more challenging and satisfying. Do positive things to bring change in other’s lives. Like helping monetarily poor family or children in learning by teaching them. Enjoying themselves like this is a very selfish act and waste off money, energy and youth.
The second Caliph (Omar) was walking by a house when he heard music. He climbed over the wall and entered the house to find a man drunk and what can be described as partying. He asked angrily: "what am I seeing here?" The man replied back by saying, "what am I seeing here??!!"
The caliph realized his mistake, applogized and left. The point is that what goes on in your own house, between you and your creater is your own business.
absolutely right. I also heard of that fable.
they earn by unlawfull means & so spend on these shamefull activities . these parties are destroying our youth both morally & ethically.
Youth can get in to harvard or go party in Ilbiza, Its their choice.
The whole article reeks with "us-vs-them" sentiments and hypocricy. It prejudices the reader and suggests a divisive approach. It is neither journalistic reporting nor an observation – it is actually a prejudiced opinion.