Flashback: Sandcastles and fire temples
Udvada train station
Udvada is a coastal town in Gujarat, about 240 km north of India’s bustling commercial capital, Mumbai. It is a small town but for Zoroastrians (Parsis) it is as venerable as the Kaaba in Makkah and Vatican in Rome for Muslims and Catholics respectively, as it is the site of Iran Shah, an Atash Behram (fire temple), where the holiest of the holy fire burns.
To me images of Udvada float in and out of my life, quite like the ebb and flow of the tide pounding the shores of the Arabian Sea on which Udvada lies. My memories of this temple town are interspersed with lazy summer holidays which just happened to be spent in the crucible of my faith and that of my forefathers.
By the end of April when schools were out for the summer, a smattering of stay-at-home moms would gather their kids, nephews and nieces, bundling us onto a steam train bound up the coast for Udvada. It’s where my maternal grandmother lived with my spinster aunt. It was our version of the ultimate summer getaway.
We knew every rail stop on the way and the gastronomic delights associated with them. Vendors would file into the second-class compartment selling everything from fresh seasonal fruit like chikoos and pears to snacks like daal-singh and coconut water.
Four hours later, we alighted from the train with our olive green beddings and battered suitcases. A long, bumpy rickshaw ride later, we’d reach our grandmother’s house at the edge of the village. By then we were just as dusty and dirty as the urchins playing nine-stones at Zanda Chowk (village square).
Late afternoon we would run into the fruit orchard looking to eat the mangoes straight off the tree. Late evenings we would scamper off to the beach. Once on the beach, sandcastles were made and destroyed; crushes discussed threadbare, chor-police games won and lost, and the ultimate game of cricket was staged. The grand-finale every evening was the game of antakhshari with songs sung to invoke light in a village rendered dark by daily load-shedding and brownouts.
A weekly visit to the Iran Shah would cap our holidays, with a tonga-ride to a nearby village thrown in for good measure.
Historical background
Iran Shah Atash Behram from inside the gate – photo credit: Traditional Zoroastrianism
The Iran Shah, Udvada’s Atash Behram, is a pilgrimage site for Zoroastrians from all over the world. Atash Behram is the name given to both the highest grade of fire used in Zoroastrian worship as well as the temple that houses the fire.
On fleeing the Arab invasion of Persia (Iran), a group of Zoroastrians got into a boat along with their holy fire and set sail east from the Strait of Hormuz.
According to the book The Kissah-i-Sanjan by Dr Jivanji Modi, the Zoroastrians from Hormuz joined the Persians at Makran, Balochistan’s coastal region that spans south-eastern Iran and southern Pakistan. Makran already had a Zoroastrian community and as the Arabs advanced east so did the Zoroastrians who continued to sail eastward and anchored on the shores of Sanjan, a hamlet on India’s west coast in 715 AD (approximately).
The benign Hindu King of Sanjan offered shelter to the group — who were referred to as Parsis (the people from Persia) — on certain conditions, and thus began the epic legacy of Parsis making their home in a then undivided India.
They soon started building a temple to house the holy fire. The first temple to house the fire was built in Sanjan, after which, as the Parsis moved up and down the coast, the fire too moved with them and made the journey to Navsari (a town north of Udvada). In 1742 AD it was decided to build a permanent home for the holy fire and it was bought to the Atash Behram building at Udvada making it the oldest functioning Atash Behram in the world.
Why call the holy fire Iran Shah?
According to the book Religion and History of the Parsees by Meherbano Kekobad Marker, the Atash Behram at Udvada is referred to as Iran Shah as in the Sassanian times all Atash Behrams were referred to as Iran Shah, implying thereby the spiritual role of the Holy Fire in the governance of the country.
The Iran Shah is well served by priests from nine families who have sacred rights to serve and tend the holy fire. They are descendants from the leading priests who were associated with the holy fire as it landed on the shores of Sanjan to Navsari and now Udvada.
They tend to the higher liturgies that go with the holy fire in rotation and with much reverence. Although they all do not live in Udvada, they come ever so often to exercise their holy duty.
I no longer live close to Udvada, nor do I spend my summer holidays there. My grandmother is long gone, but my aunt still lives in the same house I spent my summers. The village has now been granted the status of ‘World heritage centre of religious harmony’ by the government of Gujarat, India. But for me, the train ride, the mango trees and the beach make for lasting memories of a fun-filled childhood spent in the shadows of Iran Shah — a symbol of a faith that tells me to think good thoughts, say good words which automatically will be translated into good deeds.
Dear Teenaz, A touching account of Udwada and the Parsis. It is an absolute pleasure to be associated with and be so close to the Parsis. Good Thoughts, Good Words and Good Deeds could quite easily be the basis of every religion. Simple and easy to remember !!!!
The Parsis reached India and asked for shelter. The Hindu king who could not say no them, send a glass full of milk indicating that there was no place in his kingdom. The Parsis mixed sugar in the milk and sent back to the king indicating that they would not occupy any spaec and will add taste and flavour to the society and totally mingle with the society. Seeing the presence of mind and wisdom of the Parsis the king was very happy and allowed them to stay in his kingdom. True to their words, the parsis added colour to Indian society. Their contribution to Indian society in all fields is immense. Unfortunately, their population is dwindling and the government of India encourage them to have more children.
Parsis are the best people in the World.
great people- these Parsis are.
Indeed, Parsis a role model for all minorities, and King of Sanjan a role model for all kings and Governments.
I used to go to a resort in Udwada owned by a Parsi genteleman every few months to unwind. But the last time I went the management had been taken over by a muslim family. Both in Sanjan and Udwada I could notice a exponential spurt in muslim population with only burqas and skull caps in view wherever I went. Poor Parsis may have to soon search for a a new place – preferably in America (for the time being).
@Teenaz Javat
You are welcome to India . We want people like you to visit India , not only Gujurat. You have truely projected the image of Indian culture and society.Gujurat has a very special culture . Here people from all communities jews,zorastrians and jains leave peacefully . It is a shocker for those who always try to pitch the negative news of Gujurat .All credit goes to Gujuratis and their governments.
A lesson for us Muslims from the venerable Parsi Zoroastrians. Peaceful and low key personal practise of one’s faith, tolerance and progress. A role model for all faiths.
Don’t you fear when you comment like this . Please take care .
@ Rashid Sultan Sahab,,, Salam from an Indian Hindu. People like you truly represent Islam. Peace Be Upon Everyone !
Parsis were treated with respect and given a shelter in Sanjan ,India,although they were not Hindus by then Hindu King.A point is to be made that why we will mistreat muslims now.
The Zorastrians have shown that the greatness of a religion lies not in the quantity of its followers but in their quality. Secondly, the greatness of any Religion is reflected not by what they say or preach but through the actions of their believers. Unlike all other citizens the Parsis never ever demanded anything but freedom from their country India, in return they gave India its strongest Institutions from their philanthropy besides some giant individuals. They refuse to allow conversion into their faith and diluting it in contrast to Abrahamic religions that cause conflict and social upheaval.
glory to people who have respect for their forefathers’ religion
yes , these Zorastrians are the most unfortunate people on earth . They don’t have their own land to be proud of . But they are very clever people and contributed to the community where they live .
From my childhood in Bombay, I never ever thought that Parsis were not Indian as if they were a part of Gujratees. When I went to the college, I came to know the story about the journey of Parsis from iran.
The reason I am telling this is that Parsis are so much a part of Indian society and culture that non of the Indian ever thought of it otherwise. They contributed much more to the country and to the society. There are few other religious communities in India as good as Parsis like Vora. I think other religions should also learn from them and live in harmony.
Wise, not clever.