Exploring Delhi’s underbelly: Parathay Wali Gali
-Photo by author
The best way to see a city is by walking through its streets and alleys and exploring its underbelly. Having seen such tourist spots as the Red Fort, Jamia Masid, Qutub Minar, Humayun’s Tomb and Jantar Mantar on my earlier trips to Delhi, I thought of going to a place where tourists don’t normally go.
I was in the Indian capital to take part in the launch of Tales of Two Cities (not to be confused with Charles Dickens’ A Tale of Two Cities), which I had co-authored with a senior Indian journalist and a former diplomat, Kuldip Nayar. The venue was the India International Centre, where my publisher had also arranged for my stay. The launch was well attended and was a big success, I may add, at the risk of being considered immodest.
I had to stay in the exciting city for an extra day because there was no flight from Delhi to Karachi or Lahore. So I decided to make the most of it. I had read about the crisp parathay that were available in what was known as the Parathay Wali Gali, close to the famous Chandni Chowk. A desi foodie that I have always been I thought of grabbing the opportunity of visiting the alley.
During my three-day stay in the city, my friends were generous enough to lend me their cars and drivers. However, had I taken a car, it would have taken me 45 minutes to reach Chandni Chowk and another 15 minutes on foot to the Gali, not to speak of the poor driver’s ordeal of finding a parking spot. So, I took the new swanky Metro, which took nine minutes (in spite of changing from blue line to yellow line at the Rajesh Chowk station) from Mandi House to the Chandni Chowk station.
Parathay Wali Gali (incidentally all four eateries in the Gali spell the word ‘paratha’ differently) is just as narrow as the Shahi bazaars of Sindh. Until a couple of decades ago there were as many as 13 joints specialising in parathas, but as jewellers and ladies’ clothes owners offered lucrative prices, one by one, nine shops dropped shutters.
The four eateries that are left overflow with customers, morning, noon and night. I was advised to be there an hour before lunchtime so that I could capture on my camera more than just the heads of the paratha-buffs occupying the limited space inside the eateries.
-Photo by author.
The menu displayed on the walls boasted of parathas with a wide variety of fillings — cottage cheese, radish, moong ki daal, potatoes and what have you. But they were all vegetarian joints. I inquired about the traditional qeema paratha and was told that Jamia Masjid, which happened to be less than a kilometre away, had eateries around it that also served, among other dishes, non-veg parathas.
The parathas available in the Gali were smaller than the ones we have in Pakistan and they were deep fried, which made them crispier. I was reluctant to try one as my digestive system was not in ship shape. The man frying the parathas in the biggest eatery in the Gali said that a Pir Sahib had blessed the late owner so anyone eating parathas in his shop was immune to digestive problems; if any thing, the parathas would have a curative effect.
Pir Sahib or no Pir Sahib, professional compulsion forced me to try an aloo ka paratha and to say that it was delicious was to state the obvious. I sat next to a man who had a plate of two plain parathas with chutney and a couple of servings of bhujya for Indian Rs20. “I have it everyday because I can’t afford to pay more and people like you come here out of choice rather than out of compulsion,” said my cynical neighbour.
Another eatery, founded by one Pandit Gaya Prasad, displayed pictures of celebrities enjoying parathas in his outlet. The most prominent being that of Pandit Nehru in the company of a young Indira Gandhi. In another picture there was Lal Bahadur Shastri. Prasad’s son claimed that all heads of state and heads of governments had had his or his father’s parathas. “Abul Kalam sahib is the only one who never came here,” he said in English. He was in those days the President of our neighbouring country.
-Photo by author
As I moved out and headed towards Chawri Bazaar to catch the metro, I noticed that every shopkeeper had parked his motorbike outside his outlet, which made the narrow lane even narrower. I was almost overrun by a cycle rickshaw.“Dekh ke chala karo” (watch where you’re walking), roared an irate, grim-faced cycle rickshaw driver. “Bhai sahib, yehan tou na dekhne ki jaga hai aur na chalne ki” (Brother, there is no space to see let alone walk here), I said. My comment made him smile and he gave way, which reinforced my belief that humour works everywhere and Parathay Wali Gali was no exception.
Asif Noorani is a Karachi-based journalist and author of Mehdi Hasan: the Man and His Music.
The views expressed by this blogger and in the following reader comments do not necessarily reflect the views and policies of the Dawn Media Group.
after reading the comments I must say great food can really unite people!
Thanks for a wonderfully evocative article, Asif. I want to take the next flight to Delhi…
In 2008 when I visited Delhi i went all around the Jamma Masjid and Chandni Chowk area from 9.30 in the morning to 3.00 in the afternoon tasteing food from parhatas to kabbas and biryanis. Had one strip of flaygel 400 mg and Imodium just to make sure that my adventure do not fire back. I miss the pani purre of chandni chowk and Khan Market.
Visiting India next year after 15 years in Canada. And have scheduled a trip to Parathen Wali Gali for dinner one day at Pandit Gaya Parasad. Good to know that subway (metro) might be better option. Hope I and my family can handle the parathas else we are doom to be in hospital next day and spoil the entire trip
I guess subway must be in the brackets instead of metro
And have nice trip to watan! By the way, isn’t it weird to be nostalgic about India and expressing same on a Pakistani news paper while sitting in some western nation !!
My greatest dream is go to India for food tourism. Lucknow, Dehli, Hyderabad, Ahmadabad and Bombay…. and write a book about my findings. I hope for normalization between two countries so young people can travel freely. In the meanwhile we had to dream about those fantastic places.
I’m a South Indian, and I’ve wanted to visit Pakistan ever since I started reading Dawn. (seriously)
I’m sure Pakistani food is awesome, must be somewhat like Punjabi food, right? Are there any good/famous Pakistani vegetarian dishes, can you recommend some?
It is Rajiv Chowk, nt Rajesh Chowk
I think Mr. Noorani might have meant Delhi’s belly rather than underbelly ( a pejorative term). In any event I hope he did not end up with a case of Delhi-belly!
In Chawri Bazar, people do not walk, but pushed to move on
Kanwal
sometimes think dawn has more indian readership then pakistani’s………by the way sir its rajiv chowk
When you were so close to Jama Masjid – you should have tried Kareems. Dont miss next time.
Kareems in New mumbai(Vashi) is WORST,
Ranjan: Why are you leaving us Dilli Waalas insulted and red faced? Asif Sahab, please do NOT ever visit Jama Masjid eateries… like Parathe Waali Gali they too are filthy and alongwith your meal you would be given Delhi Belly gratis.
I want a “Mattar Prantha” and two fry Anda with Lal Mirch or better yet make it an Omlette but yar put extra Hari Mirch.
Jaldi Jaldi, Abhee office Jana hey.
Parathey wali gali is just the begining of the magic of Old Delhi. Tourists must try “Salim Bhai ka Haleem”, burra kebabs of Karim (Jama Masjid), Mohammad Hussain’s fried chicken, Panditji ki kulfi….and the list goes on and on. The chaat, paye, nihari and korma is to die for. The only sad part it that what passes for Biryani in Delhi is some ghee with some mutton and rice thrown in. The best biryani is made in the Imambara area of Lucknow.
Dude Hyderabadi Mutton Biryani is the best and one reason is the rice, its EXTRA long Basmati, u dont get in North or anywhere in the world except Hyderabad, trust me. This was Shown in Gordons Kitchen in UK of Channel 4, what was shown was DUM Mutton Biryani, u seriously will die its that tasty !!
Sorry mate. Gordon Ramsay is no authority on Indian kitchen. I am a hardcore foodie. Though, hyderabad haleem is the best, but i believe there briyani is way to over rated. Lucknow biriyani is way more superior. However, overall, Delhi food is the best from all over India and among the very best from all accross the globe. And i have traelled quite a bit.
Well Rahul and Gaurav,
If you want magical baryani, just visit your brothers in Pakistan, you’ll love it. Also if you dont mind eating meat, Lahore and Peshawer will drive you crazy. And not to forget, RawalPindi ki Halwa Puri and Cholay.
I visited lahore once and had the best kababs of my life till now.
Hyderabadi biryani is just the biryani you get in delhi plus lots of extra species. And the raita you get with Hyderabadi biryani is just water and little bit of cur, north side especializes in Raita also.
Hey Hey Hey Hold on. Biriyani is a very sensitive topic in India and everyone says his as best.
I Luckily have travelled to many cities in India and the result is :
Delhi Biryani is too oily and spicy (influence of Dehlvi Muslims & Punjabis) LoL
Lucknow Biryani is Mild and Aromatic and its really good (Biryani reflects nazakat & nafasat !!)
Malabar Biryani is South Indian version but its also good with a distinct flavour
Winners
Hyderbadi Biryani ~ Try ………Shadab or Paradise Restaurant
Kolkata Biryani ~ Try……….. Arsalan or Aminia (And yes plz dont tell me I included this bcoz I am a Bengali !)
Hyderabadi & Kolkata Biryani are the Best
I visited kolkata several times , reallly biryani of aminia restaurant is very tasty.I still could not forget the taste of kachchi biryani..And pani puri near victoria memorial Esplanade.
(zafar Iqbal ,karachi)
Hmmmmm……Kareem`s not so good as it was advertised,even I can prepare much better them the one that I ate.
Lucknow biriyani is very greasy and very spicy. i would prefer Hyderabadi.
It is nor “Rajesh Chowk” sir – It is “Rajiv Chowk” named after Rajiv Gandhi by the sycophants of Congress party to please Sonia. The common folks still use the old British Name – Connaught Place.
Great write up. Traditional eateries are getting converted in to chain restaurants in delhi with a great pace.
Minor correction though, Delhi metro is not new, its over 7 years old now.
His foot is a little too close to the food but I guess deep frying + blessings would solve everything.
Correction:
Pl amend the metro station’s name as it should be RAJIV CHOWK instead of Rajesh Chowk.
thanks