After visiting Saffron and meeting the owner, Ruheena Malik, one wonders which of the two is more intriguing. But it doesn’t take very long to figure out that a lot of Ruheena’s personality is reflected in Saffron.

Ruheena is dressed simply in jeans and a faded button-down shirt, wears no make up but her smile lights up her face. In that attire, she surprises one by saying, “What is the point of having a restaurant in Karachi which is all done up in glass, chrome and modern décor? It is like replicating a foreign restaurant with an artificial feel to it. A restaurant in Karachi should reflect our rich cultural heritage; there is so much here to show off to someone who comes from abroad; when they see our traditional art and craft, they can’t believe their eyes.”

Walk through the traditional haveli doors into the cool confines of the restaurant and you are surrounded by Ruheena’s palpable passion for antiques. “I love designing with elements from the past, using table tops, old doors, tiles and panels that I have collected from havelis across Mithi, Badin, Thatta and other areas of interior Sindh over many years.”

In 2010, Ruheena decided to set up Saffron. “I live upstairs, and I wanted to do something creative with the ground portion of my house, hence Saffron was conceived.

The restaurant is like a treasure trove of artefacts from Pakistani history and culture. Tiles, clocks, guns, plates, tables, seats, lights — each carefully selected and passionately displayed item has a story to tell. What’s more, if you really fall in love with something, you can actually request to purchase it.

Though Saffron launched off with Mediterranean cuisine, Ruheena has recently extended the menu to include Hyberabadi food which fits in far better with the tone of the restaurant and is a wonderful treat for someone visiting Pakistan from abroad.

”When I started Saffron, I knew one day I would like to add desi cuisine to my menu. It was only after I met Saeeda Effendi of Nano’s Hangout, that it seemed possible. Saeeda is an expert in Hyderabadi cuisine so as an experiment we introduced the same for Saffron’s Brunch Menu. We got positive feedback from our customers and here we are, all set to launch it now for our dinner menu.”

A creamy Daal Soup with a wholesome bread basket kick starts a rather rich meal. The lightly fried Batata Wada may be a bit mild for the local palate but are delicious nevertheless. The main course includes gently spiced Bagharay Jhingey — the selection we got were a tad overcooked which is a crime as far as prawns are concerned but hopefully that was a starting hiccup.

The Chicken Pasandy were tender and good enough in their own right, but one does tend to think of pasnady in terms of beef; perhaps Saffron is catering to a more health conscious audience. The Hyderabadi Fish was deliciously flaky and tender and the Bagharay Baingan added an authentic Hyderabadi touch to the menu. For some, nothing beats homemade Nargisi Koftay but if you don’t have that luxury, Saffron offers a good substitute.

The hallmark Saffron rice, unfortunately, seemed a bit on the dry and overcooked side; perhaps that’s the Hyderabadi way? One hopes that the option of kulchas, roti or naan is also added to the menu for those who prefer their curry with bread rather than rice. The high point of the meal was certainly the dessert with a traditional Khubani ka Meetha, made just like mom used to make it.

For those looking for a continental experience, the Mediterranean menu is still on offer. For starters Saffron serves a silky smooth Seafood Chowder, a Mezze Platter with a number of interesting dips and Chilli Prawns — these prawns were prepared perfectly and are highly recommended.

If you are in an adventurous mood, for your main course you can choose Jalepeno Chicken; for those who want to play it safe there’s the mild and comforting Snapper in Lemon Butter Sauce. The dessert is a fluffy steamed cake, drizzled with sweet sauce and served with peach slices.

With desi food available everywhere from home to dhabas, one is tempted to ask Ruheena why she opted for a desi food menu when Saffron has served a Mediterranean menu successfully for almost two years.

“At Saffron, we believe that desi food needs to go to another level — an international level. Hyderabadi cuisine was added to the menu in order to bring something new and unique and I think it is our edge over other fine dining restaurants.”