As promised recently, this time around we will take a look at cultivating grape vines which, despite much adverse publicity, are really very simple to grow indeed and this, plus the next couple of months, is the ideal time to make a start.
First and foremost, grapes can be cultivated absolutely everywhere in Pakistan but, as a result of localised climatic and soil conditions, will be more productive in some areas than in others but they are, if used to their full potential, still worth growing.
In cultivation since ancient times, grape vines thrive in most soil conditions as long as the roots are never allowed to become waterlogged: Stony soil, sandy soil, even clay soil as long as drainage is good, are all ideal for viticulture as grape vine cultivation is correctly known. The most common cultivation error is that of over feeding as the vines require very little nourishment otherwise they will grow like crazy, producing new shoots which are very long and leafy but may not set actual grapes as all the strength may have been used up in rapid growing.
Grape vines are suitable for growing directly in the ground or in large pots and other deep containers. Planting holes should be prepared at least two weeks in advance of putting in newly purchased vines or ‘homemade’ rooted cuttings. Select a location in full sun, or place pots/containers where they get maximum sunshine, and dig a hole 12-18 inches deep and approximately 12 inches wide. Place a handful of rusty iron (not stainless steel) nails in the base of the planting hole for a long term supply of iron and add a totally clean beef knuckle bone which will provide necessary calcium and other trace elements over an extended period of time. Do not add manure although you can mix the excavated soil with some organic compost, a ratio of 70 per cent soil to 30 per cent compost is ideal, to be used when planting the vine/s.
If you have purchased bare rooted vines, giving them an overnight soak in a bucket of water prior to planting is a good idea. If they are pot grown this is not usually necessary. Take great care to untangle and spread out the fragile roots when planting the vines, handle-with-care being of extreme importance, and add soil a little at a time, watering it down rather than stamping on it, until the hole is full to the brim and then water again — topping up with more soil may be necessary once everything has settled into place.
Whoops! Almost forgot this: Before you plant out any vines, please ensure that they have something to climb up. This could be an adjacent wall with wires or netting in place, an arrangement of stakes and wires, a full-fledged grape arbour, trellis or even a convenient tree. The climbing ‘frame’ must be in place before planting any vines as to do this afterwards is liable to result in damage to their roots.
Grape vines grow extremely fast and should, especially for the first four years, be kept under control and not, I repeat not, be allowed to bear fruit until they are four or five years old. Before this time any blossom should be snipped off, not broken, with a pair of sharp secateurs. Allowing vines to fruit before they are fully mature results in poor quality grapes and the vines are unlikely ever to produce good quality fruit.
Pruning back of ‘runaway’ new shoots is an on-going process but only prune back new, green sappy growth not established wood, otherwise the vine will bleed to death. When pruning new shoots only take off approximately 30 per cent at a time and repeat this each and every month throughout the growing season if you possibly can. Once vines are mature and ready to bear fruit, ‘summer pruning’ as it is called, should be carried out every six to eight weeks. The all important winter pruning, December/January is ideal, is done just once and the vines pruned back very hard indeed. This winter pruning, the vines’ fruit on the previous year’s growth, is most successful when all stems are pruned back to just three buds and no more.
The biggest problem faced by grape growers in Pakistan are the humid conditions endured in most parts of the country at the crucial period when the grapes are ripening. This humidity causes mildew which is difficult to avoid. Keeping the vines reasonably clear of growth and leaves in their central area assists air circulation and does delay or reduce the onset of mildew as does spraying the vines with bicarbonate of sodium solution on a regular basis when humidity is high.
The grapes you cultivate may or may not be of top quality but, be they white, green, red or purple, they will certainly be of some culinary use. Even if they aren’t, please do make full use of young vine leaves in salads, as a spinach substitute or as dolmas and use the young, leafless tendrils as a vegetable too. If you decide to grow grape vines for leaf and tendril production rather than actual grapes then no pruning is necessary.
Please send your gardening queries to zahrahnasir@hotmail.com. Remember to include your location. E-mails with attachments will not be opened.































