Anyone who lives in Karachi has surely crossed the Kala Pul at least once in their life.
Kala Pul (Black Bridge) is a name shrouded in mystery. It hints at a sinister place with dark secrets. At one time it was indeed a black steel bridge that was replaced with a concrete structure many years ago but the original name has stuck. What is more significant than the bridge itself is the large shantytown that exists below and has hosted the less fortunate people of Karachi for a very long time.
Many a tale of human misery is associated with Kala Pul; flooding after rains, fires, disease and crime. At one time most of the little boys that sell newspaper on the streets of Karachi or scavenge for useful garbage lived in the slums under the Kala Pul.
When I mentioned to a friend that I plan to go and take some pictures there, there was an instant reaction, “No, don’t do that, it is a dangerous place”.
Ignoring the “dire consequences” I had been warned about, I went there twice to take pictures. Again, like in other places I had been warned to stay away, I was not bothered by anyone. The visits to Kala Pul only strengthened my faith in the decency and honesty of the under privileged. One day, I hope I can say the same about the affluent.
—Text and Images by Vaqar Ahmed
Protest over the murder of Zahra Shahid
Top Picks
Oklahoma tornado kills at least 91
Cultured by choice
2013 Billboard Music Awards
Really nice images, though I agree I wish there were more people, and I think it would have benefited from color.
The images immediately reminded me of glimpses of the film Amu by Shonali Bose (with Konkona Sen). There is something special about images of trains that contain cityscapes with clear signs of the tough struggle of life. Bravo my friend! Hats off.
Bhuto phir bhi zinda hai? I ask the question from those who vote for PPP again and gain in sindh and never had their problems fixed.
Dear Vaqar,
Nicely shot and eloquent description. Kala Pul is dear to me, I produced a narrative story ‘Kala Pul – All news out of Karachi is bad’ on the mystique of the bridge and the tortured city of Karachi. Movie was shot in 2006 on super 16mm and I have many beautiful and evocative images and memories of shooting under the slums of Karachi
you can find the movie on youtube and website is here
http://www.kalapul.com
saqib m
Cant help but noticing in the 12th pic that the Railway land has been encroached by a shrine. Quite like India I must say.
I have seen worse slums than these in Latin America, and people sleeping on the sidewalks.
India has worse slums, and I remember one shack on a deserted hill in a southern Chinese city with a small stream running underneath it and one light bulb that lit the space.
amazing work with the picture
but just wish they had more people it would have had a greater effect
@Basma, you are spot on in your comment. It would have been more effective with more people.
Vaqar Ahmed
good job and you are not steroetype,you will find decent people in this segment of society who want to work hard for their family and education,you may find even a good cricketer they just need a support and guidance.
Maybe they are all at work or at school at that time of the day. The last time i was there it was just full of good souls very busy trying to make a profitable day for themselves and their family. That’s what I call that little light at the end of the tunnel. I have been on the ”pul’ number of times since the fifties, I don’t remember the color but sure the landscape has changed dramatically, from empty fields to what you see now. I always make it point to see it whenever I visit my home city. Thank you for the wonderful pictures, just took me back 50 years.
Thank you Brother Vaqar Ahmad for these excellent pictures. I used to live in Abbysinia Lines and was a frequent visitor to my cousin sister who used to live near Kala Pul. Her husband used to work at Cantt. Railway Station. Sometimes I used to walk from Cantt. Station to my cousin sister’s home through the railway lines. I left Pakistan in 1961 for Europe. Now I live in Canada. You brought back memories of almost 50 years. God bless Pakistan and the people who live their in peace.