KARACHI: The inauguration of Expo 2013, running from Sept 26 to 29 at the Expo Centre with more than 1,000 buyers from 70 countries, began with a grand fashion show at a hotel where a total of eight collections were shown each day during the two-day event.
The participating designers included Rizwan Beyg, Faiza Samee, Tapu Javeri (featuring Warda Saleem), Farnaz Mustafa, Sania Maskatiya, Pakistan Institute of Fashion and Design (PIFD), Zaheer Abbas and Sana Safinaz on Day One.
Day Two featured the design takes of Maheen Khan, Deepak Perwani, Huma Adnan (FnkAsia), Umaima Mustafa, Ayesha Ibrahim, Ahmed Bham and Shamaeel Ansari.
In a brief speech, Rabia Javeri Agha, Secretary of the Trade Development Authority of Pakistan (TDAP), said that what follows is another part of Pakistan that many have never seen before, and one that is cutting edge fashion innovation which helps to establish our visual identity. “Behind every tanka and stitch is heritage carried forward by generations of kaarigars, and the credit goes to our fashion designers who present and preserve our heritage,” she added.
She especially thanked Rizwan Beyg among the many others who helped put the event together and were also working backstage, and added that Milan and Paris along with other destinations in Europe have been lined up for more such shows.
Visuals from the 8th Expo flashed on screens mounted on either side of the ramp before Rizwan Beyg showed his spectacular and brilliant ode to truck art featuring peacock motifs among other fantastical creatures and influences. The segment started as models taking a joyride on a bicycle entered the ramp space followed by a colourful display of oversized ladies’ handbags and footwear featuring stiletto boots, flared short skirts and tops, menswear accessories such as belts, jackets, waistcoats, laptop cases, briefcases and much more from the designer’s Rangg line.
The presentation was titled Rural to Runway, and Expo 2013 has also borrowed its theme from it this year. The designer previewed the collection earlier this year in Lahore at the PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week, and has since added to it with an even more extended colour palette by working with artisans from different areas of rural Sindh and Multan, making a foray into ethical fashion that focuses on social development in rural communities and issues like gender equality, fair wages and non-exploitation of labour.
Next, Faiza Samee’s Luxury Pret Autumn/Winter 2014 collection drew inspiration from the geometric print patterns and handicrafts of nomadic tribes widely found in Himalayas and Hindu Kush mountain ranges. Prints, cuts and silhouettes brought into focus both the hemispheres with asymmetrical and kimono and sarong influences. Greens, oranges and earthen hues featured here in breezy printed silks and other fabrics.
Tapu Javeri’s wild-at-heart wearable art came together under the Tapulicious banner to showcase prints and bags in kaleidoscopic prints and images encapsulating urban scenery (source: KaraChakra exhibition inspired by pop culture and old buildings of Karachi) in flowy, full-length gowns and featuring a few outfits by designer Warda Saleem as well. Select pieces from the fetching collection had been seen earlier at a fashion week.
Farnaz Mustafa’s nawabi-era collection with elements of modernity had embellished fabric forming slinky, sexy tops to pure eastern wear that appeared a tad confusing to the onlooker in its approach to design sensibility and philosophy. The designer is otherwise known for bridal couture.
Turkish goblets and Islamic art motifs were the source of design inspiration behind designer Sania Maskatiya’s line. She weaved these traditional and cultural elements intelligently into her designs by balancing them out with a fusion of western and modern cuts, resulting in a 12-piece collection that spoke volumes about her insight into subtle design.
The future of fashion is what the PIFD’s selected work of the 2013 graduating batch was all about. Having seen it in the form of funky footwear, a bird-inspired sling bag, miniature-stuffed animal figurines and a show of different cloths and textures produced in Pakistan, it needed introduction.
Creative yes, but given the commercial nature of the activity, selling western wear to foreigners doesn’t sound like cutting-edge marketing strategy. Why would they buy it if it didn’t have an ethnic edge? There were flashes of brilliance in weave and thread embroidery in the form of Kashmiri and Swati needlework, and even leather products. But the fur trimming sent out entirely the wrong message, as it has become synonymous with animal cruelty and it wasn’t even faux fur.
Categorising the outfits would be a tough task but some of them seemed to pass off as club apparel. And then there was the volume and layers upon layers in these economically tough times. Having seen the future, it needs focus and direction.
Zaheer Abbas’ Spring/ Summer 2013 pret line La Base featured vibrancy in colours such as red, green and black in pure cotton silk set off by off white, but the silhouette was deliberately kept stark and simple.
Sana Safinaz brought the ’40s bling to the ramp in party/club/cocktail dresses with a few pieces previewed earlier in the 10-piece collection featuring capes, skirts, wraparound tops and so much more. It was a fitting finale to the first day’s showing.
According to an official communication, the organiser and producer of the event is the Hum TV Network under the supervision of the head of fashion at TDAP, Saeed Tamimi. The hair, make-up and styling is by Saba Ansari and her team at Sabs Salon with show choreography by HSY.
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