A place of domes and pillars

Dawn.com Published August 17, 2011
The only domed structure at Chowkandi. This massive dome was carved out of a single piece of rock.
The only domed structure at Chowkandi. This massive dome was carved out of a single piece of rock.
The only other large, grand structure at Chowkandi: the pillared enclosure.
The only other large, grand structure at Chowkandi: the pillared enclosure.
The pattern and designs etched on the graves are reminiscent of those found on ajraks and rallis.
The pattern and designs etched on the graves are reminiscent of those found on ajraks and rallis.
The caretaker of Chowkandi, Allah Dina, walks past one of the monuments.
The caretaker of Chowkandi, Allah Dina, walks past one of the monuments.
The tomb with the slanted top signifies that its occupant was an ?unmarried? woman. It stands beside the grave of a married one.
The tomb with the slanted top signifies that its occupant was an ?unmarried? woman. It stands beside the grave of a married one.
The front side of the tomb belonging to the married woman shows a decorative necklace etched on it.
The front side of the tomb belonging to the married woman shows a decorative necklace etched on it.
Tombs of male and female occupants could be identified by the kind of etching on them. The ones belonging to women had jewellery carved on them. This picture displays a pair of qarras (bracelets) carved on a tomb.
Tombs of male and female occupants could be identified by the kind of etching on them. The ones belonging to women had jewellery carved on them. This picture displays a pair of qarras (bracelets) carved on a tomb.
This tomb also belongs to a woman. There are earrings, rings and a necklace carved on it.
This tomb also belongs to a woman. There are earrings, rings and a necklace carved on it.
This tomb belonged to a man ? signified by the tiny turban like structure on the top right.
This tomb belonged to a man ? signified by the tiny turban like structure on the top right.
The rising sun casts a warm glow on some of the tombs inside the domed enclosure.
The rising sun casts a warm glow on some of the tombs inside the domed enclosure.
This shows the distance between the first and second row of tombs inside the domed enclosure.
This shows the distance between the first and second row of tombs inside the domed enclosure.
Lotus flowers carved on the rim of the dome. The carved, almost brick-like layers of the underside of the dome are also visible in this photograph.
Lotus flowers carved on the rim of the dome. The carved, almost brick-like layers of the underside of the dome are also visible in this photograph.
Not all of the graves in Chowkandi were grand, graves with only stones to cover and mark them, such as this, dotted the landscape as well.
Not all of the graves in Chowkandi were grand, graves with only stones to cover and mark them, such as this, dotted the landscape as well.
The portion of this tomb, which belongs to a man, shows a spear, bow and arrow carved into it.
The portion of this tomb, which belongs to a man, shows a spear, bow and arrow carved into it.
Quranic verses were found carved on top of this tomb.
Quranic verses were found carved on top of this tomb.
These tombs were set on a common raised platform. Each family had its own way of decorating and maintaining their tombs.
These tombs were set on a common raised platform. Each family had its own way of decorating and maintaining their tombs.
Another set of tombs at Chowkandi.
Another set of tombs at Chowkandi.
The resident dog also paid us a visit during the trip.
The resident dog also paid us a visit during the trip.
Most of the graves are in dire need of restoration and repair as can seen from the photograph of this one.
Most of the graves are in dire need of restoration and repair as can seen from the photograph of this one.
Some of the pieces shown in this photograph were brought in as a part of a drive to restore the tombs of Chowkandi, ?during the time of Zia-ul-Haq? according to the caretaker? and have remained this way ever since.
Some of the pieces shown in this photograph were brought in as a part of a drive to restore the tombs of Chowkandi, ?during the time of Zia-ul-Haq? according to the caretaker? and have remained this way ever since.
The tombs of Chowkandi ? with its own stone-lined sandy pathway.
The tombs of Chowkandi ? with its own stone-lined sandy pathway.
The sign giving an introduction to Chowkandi at the venue.
The sign giving an introduction to Chowkandi at the venue.

The Chowkandi tombs are situated 29 km east of Karachi on N-5 National Highway near Landhi Town in Pakistan. The tombs are remarkable for the elaborate and exquisite stone carving.

The style of architecture is typical only to the region of Sindh, and unique in that it is found nowhere else in the Islamic world. Generally, the elements are attributed to the  Jokhio tribe, although some people of the Baloch tribe were also buried here between the 15th and 18th centuries. - Photos and captions by Madeeha Syed

Pakistan

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