Breathtaking natural beauty with snow covered peaks, lush green alpine meadows, barren mountains and rolling hills, forests, irrigated plains, rivers, deserts and coastal areas — our country has it all. There are distinctive historical monuments and hot spots for recreation, research and eco-tourism due to abundance of wonderful flora and fauna. Such areas attract a large number of people by virtue of their sheer natural beauty and aesthetic value especially to beat the scorching heat in summer. Why bother with visa hassles and pay exorbitant airfare when Pakistan is home to a variety of holiday destinations …

Uphill to Gorakh

Awed by the beauty, you foret you are in Sindh (L) At present the amenities are scant (R) — Photo by writer

Snowfall in Sindh — sounds more like fantasy but no, there’s one place in Sindh where it really snows in winter, to the extent that in 2008 the mountains got entirely covered with a layer of snow.

Gorakh is a scenic plateau situated at a height of over 5,688ft and is part of the Kirthar Mountain Range that covers the entire Sindh’s border with Balochistan in the west. It appeals to those who appreciate the beauty of mountains, plateaus, and fauna and flora and has rightly been compared with Murree in the north and Ziarat in the south-western side of the country, because of its breath-taking, mesmerising beauty; enough to make one forget all worldly woes.

Yet it is not a frequently visited place. Why? Because travelling to Gorakh is quite difficult, nay risky? Only 4x4 vehicles can take you uphill and there are many dangerous points on this steep road which only an expert driver can cross. The distance of about 423km from Karachi to the top of Gorakh hill takes about eight hours due to the poor condition of roads, especially from Johi, the last major town en route to Gorakh, to Wahi Pindhi the last village before taking the road to the hill.

Waiting to be explored, the Gorakh Hill Station is like a hidden treasure of Sindh

The uneven ‘single road’ leads you through a series of (dry) beds of seasonal rainy streams, called Nai in Sindhi. On both sides, there are dark mountains with scattered small settlements of mountain people. Different types of plants and shrubs can be seen along the way; as many as 74 plant species representing 62 genera and 34 families have been described in a study conducted by the Department of Botany, University of Karachi.

As you get closer to the hill station, every passing mountain prepares you for a larger one. At the very base of the mountain there is a point which the local drivers call Panj-treeh (35 in Sindhi), because it is located at a distance of 35km from Wahi Pandhi. Here, on benches under fibreglass shades, drivers usually stop to refresh and check their vehicles as right after this point the ascent begins.

The dangerous track on the mountain looks like a huge snake making its way up to the hill. “We have to climb up there and from that point to that mountain …” Ali Akbar Soomro, our driver-cum-guide, pointed his finger to the far off last mountain visible through the dense fog.

“About 4kms from here, you will reach the Khawal Lak, which is the most difficult part of the journey; the remaining drive is relatively easier,” he added.

The drive gets more difficult as the road becomes steeper after Khawal Lak — Photo by writer

Even expert drivers dread Khawal Lak because there are four sharp bends in a steep track, leading finally through the pass and the vehicle is not supposed to lose pace, let alone stopping halfway. When there was no proper road here, people would usually get off the vehicle and walk up while the driver would risk driving up through it alone.

Once you cross the Lak and the altitude increases, a distinct change in temperature is noticeable along with different types of shrubs and plants — the common plant being ‘Peesh’ (Chamaerops Ritchina), a kind of dwarf date palm, used for making ropes, mats and other items.

The scenery is breathtaking and you will be mesmerised by the beauty of the large and small mountain peaks visible all around, and the green ‘plain’ of the hill top.

Among the commonly found wild animals are Sindh Ibex and fox. There was a time when wolf and lion lived here, too, but now even Sindh Ibex is under threat due to excessive hunting.

About 4-6km from Gorakh top there is a natural spring, called Heengarr in the local language, which is the source of water for the entire Gorakh hill area and the government has made sufficient arrangements to make it available on the top by installing motor pumps and tanks at different spots.

The scenery is breathtaking and you will be mesmerised by the beauty of the large and small mountain peaks visible all around, and the green ‘plain’ of the hill top.

When at Gorakh, besides being awed by the beauty, you forget for a while that you are in Sindh, as the climate here is totally different from the plains. June-July is the best time to go, as in winter, especially December-January, it gets very cold here. Water freezes at night as the temperature dives well below zero. Locals advise not to go to the chotee or peak during winter. Even the tribes living up at different parts of Gorakh come ‘down’ to spend winter in the plains.

Floating in the sky — Photo by writer

Once at the top, all you will see is small and big mountain peaks of the range and the view of the low-level clouds all around makes you feel as though you are floating in the sky. On the eastern side of the hill station, it’s Johi (district Dadu) of Sindh and on the west, it borders Khuzdar, Balochistan.

Those bidding Gorakh as ‘tough competition’ to Murree support it by mentioning the vast area the plateau covers. They hold that the expanse is suitable for different kinds of construction meant for facilitating visitors including hotels and rest houses.

The place needs to be developed. At present the amenities are scant — fibre glass shades with benches made at the top of the hill at four different sites to have four different views, besides a rest house constructed by the government for tourists to stay. A five star hotel, contrary to the government’s recent claims, is still under construction, while another small rest house meant for ‘VIPs’ is also planned. A helipad has also been built, which is used by government authorities.

Due to the extensive coverage in the local media there is a regular flow of tourists which is termed as informal tourism. Our guide, Ali Akbar Soomro, said that the local drivers of Johi, serving as the base camp for the hill station, make three to four trips per week to cater to the growing demand.

“Tourists come from all parts of Sindh including Karachi. We also have tourists from other parts of the country, who are mostly groups of friends arriving after they read something about the hill station in the media or on the internet,” he added.

Only 4x4 vehicles can take you uphill as the road gets steep — Photo by writer

The entire region is also important from the ecological and archaeological perspective. There are, literally, hundreds of archaeological sites at the foothills and highlands adjoining Gorakh. From beautiful natural streams to prehistoric caves, rock carvings to fossils, Buddhist stupas to old forts and temples, Kachho and Kohistan region are home to the archaeological sites explored by archaeologists and explorers who carry out research and promote informal tourism here. However, there has been no worthwhile support from the government.

Despite allocation of funds for the development of the proposed hill station by successive governments, and the establishment of Gorakh Hill Development Authority, no serious efforts have been made to develop the hill station.

The local population also faces numerous difficulties due to the lack of basic facilities such as healthcare, education, basic infrastructure, etc. In case of medical emergencies they have to reach Wahi Pandhi for health assistance. The locals also demand schools for their children so their kids can also get educated.

Proposed facilities for the hill station besides water and road infrastructure are provision of natural gas, cellular network towers, restaurants, hotels and chairlifts, etc. Gorakh can well be developed into a successful hill station attracting thousands of visitors all year round to generate considerable income for the government as well as local employment opportunities.

People in the region are quite hospitable and it is quite easy to find a guide and 4x4 vehicles in Johi or at Wahi Pandhi on competitive rates. You can take packaged food or can cook your own food up on the hill. Travelling to Gorakh is an electrifying adventure and memorable experience. And those in doubt should check it out themselves. The splendid beauty of the hills is waiting for you to come and explore.

Lake district

The emerald-green Dudipat lake — Photo by Writer

By Muhammad Niaz

Located on the eastern side of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, the Kaghan valley is a treasure trove of natural resources, fabulous landscape and enthralling water bodies attracting thousands of tourists from different walks of life. The high land pastures serve as summer grazing grounds for the local cattle owners who move uphill in summer and downhill in winter due to severe climatic conditions.

Most families have small summer houses in the traditional Alpine ranges. Their large number of livestock, literally thousands of animals wintering in the plains of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa and Punjab use the alpine meadows of Kaghan during summer.

Fed by streams originating from the nearby surrounding watersheds, Lake Lulusar, Lake Dudipat, Lake Saiful Maluk and Lake Ansoo are large fresh-water lakes in Naran, District Mansehra. These wetland-based parks are indeed the prime slots on the tourists’ itinerary.

The scenic Lulusar Lake — Photo by writer

Lake Lulusar is located about 350km from Mansehra. Situated at an altitude of 3,353m along the Naran-Chilas road, Lulusar Lake is about one-hour drive from Naran town; on the edge of Kaghan valley and Kohistan boundary, the lake is visited by a large number of migratory waterfowls and tourists every year. Dudipat is the most beautiful lake situated at the boundary of Kashmir and Kaghan valley and serves as a breeding place for trout.

Emerald-green lakes surrounded by snow-clad peaks and alpine pastures provide a taste of Switzerland in the heart of KP

Lulusar and Dudipat lakes have been declared as Lulusar-Dudipat National Park in 2003, covering an area of 30,375 hectares in district Mansehra, with a view to protect the wetlands and their associated biodiversity.

Dudipat Lake is situated in the extreme north of Kaghan valley at an altitude of 4,175m and is accessible from Jalkhad through a four-hour hike. The climate of Lulusar wetland is temperate and alpine in character with maximum temperatures varying between 28°C to 30°C, while Dudipat Lake has a cold climate with temperatures varying from -5°C to 20°C. High peaks remain snow bound for most of the year and the meadows provide grazing grounds for the livestock of the nomads.

Situated in the western Himalayan mountain ranges, Dudipat is best for a two-day trip for individuals as well as groups. The area has majestic scenery that compels tourists to pitch up tents and savour the natural beauty and wilderness. Local guides can be hired.

Situated in the western Himalayan mountain ranges, Dudipat is best for a two-day trip for individuals as well as groups.

Balakot is a town near Mansehra which is known as Gate of the Kaghan Valley. The Lulusar Lake has the significance of being the originator of the 180km long River Kunhar which flows southward to join the Neelum and Jehlum rivers. Water from the legendary Lake Saiful Muluk and the nearby watersheds also feed River Kunhar. Interestingly, River Kunhar is also called Nain Sukh locally, which means that is has the quality for treating sore eyes.

Basal is situated about 40km from Naran Bazaar from where Lulusar Lake and Dudipat Lakes are approached. From Basal, a hiking track takes tourists to the Dudipat Lake in five hours. Waterfalls and green pastures delight tourists along the uphill tracks. The main nullah from the lake joins River Kunhar at Basal. Along the hiking track, nomads can be seen moving uphill with their livestock.

The best time to visit these places is mid-June to mid-August when a variety of flowers and medicinal plants form a natural carpet in the area. Horses and ponies can be hired from Basal and rates for the trip are negotiable.

Waterfall on the way to Lulusar — Photo by writer

Those who are less hardy can choose an easier alternative route which is a 15 km vehicle track from Jalkad to Noori at the top. This is the last point where travellers embark on a hike for two hours, going upward to the Dudipat Lake through extensive meadows. There is undulating landscape until suddenly the breathtaking first view of the lake appears after the moderate climb uphill. The emerald-green freshwater of Dudipat is abound with trout. From Naran to Noori, vehicles are available at about Rs5,500 per round trip as the tough terrain to the destination requires vehicles in perfect shape and skilled driving.

Lulusar Lake is situated along the main Naran-Chilas road where Babosar is the end point of the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa territory. From Naran, a vehicle costs about Rs6,500 per trip. The lake is accessible by private transport as well. There is an eating place at Jalkad between Basal and Lulusar which is famous for its daal. Local handicrafts, shawls, lachka for kids and old ladies, souvenirs, bed sheets and wood carvings can be bought en-route to Naran.

PTDC Motel and Lenox, Pine Track, Kunhar view, de Manchi and Gateway are some of the hotels which offer standard lodging and boarding. However, economy based hotels and restaurants are also available with reasonable charges for accommodation.

Magnificent landscape of pastures, medicinal plants, wildlife, glaciers and moderate climate make up the natural canvas of the park. The climate is primarily dry with severe snowfall in winter. The natural beauty and significance of the lakes attract tourists every year between June and August. They are valued as ideal spots for recreational and educational activities such as hunting, fishing, camping, wildlife observation and research.

While many visitors are only concerned with the natural beauty of the area, other functions such as a continuous supply of goods including fish, peat, non-timber forest products, biodiversity and water quality maintenance — which is a bounty for both tourists and local communities — mostly go unnoticed by the visitors. Indeed such places call for eco-tourism which would not only contribute to tapping recreational resources on a sustainable basis but would also reflect environmentally friendly behaviour on part of the tourists for preserving the natural set up.

Where peacocks still dance

Sufi Anwar Shah Safari Park

By Gobind Menghwar

Wherever and whenever environment is being discussed, we find people lamenting the depletion of forests and wetlands in the country, the shrinking wildlife breeding space and the resultant extinction of hundreds of valuable species; leaving others endangered.

It’s true that Pakistan, especially Sindh was once a generous host to a variety of animals and migratory birds. It’s also true that the loss of habitat coupled with outdated legislation on deforestation and hunting are the major causes of turning our forests from ‘no man’s land’ to ‘no wildlife land’.

But not all is lost. There are still places that are home to a number of endangered species. One such place is Sufi Anwar Shah Safari Park in Ghotki district. Situated down the National Highway, near Mirpur Mathelo, in the midst of the country’s biggest fertiliser industrial units; the well-equipped and scientifically managed Sufi Anwar Shah Safari Park is truly a silver lining in the otherwise gloomy scenario of wildlife management in Sindh.

Spread over an area of 2,400 acres, this properly fenced safari park was established in 2008 as a joint venture of Sindh Forest Department and United Nation’s Joint Programme on Environment. Over the years, the park has successfully served the purpose with which it was established: to conserve diverse species of flora and fauna in a controlled and protected environment. At the same time it provides recreation opportunities to local people.

More public-private partnership initiatives are needed to preserve wildlife

“In addition to protecting the already existing species, we have reintroduced wild animals and birds such hog deer, black bucks, blue bull, chinkara, pea fowl, grey partridges and black partridges making it more diverse,” says project director and architect of the park, Javed Ahmed. “We have apportioned an undisturbed breeding space for wildlife which is managed on most advanced and scientific lines,” says Ahmed. One can watch all these animals and birds through specially constructed hideouts and watch towers. Dressed in neat uniforms and equipped with walkie-talkie sets, the staff offers guided tours, buggy and horseback rides to the visitors.

An eco-education class al-fresco — Photo by writer

Abundant wildlife attracts tourists and creates jobs. For the children of neighbouring Ghotki and Mirpur Mathelo, the park is no less than a blessing due to the ample ‘fun area’ reserved for children. “One of the objectives of this safari park is to create awareness about wildlife among the people of this remote part of the province,” says Divisional Forest Officer Mirpur Mathelo Sanaullah Baloch. “Special classes are frequently arranged for the visiting children where they are taught about the importance of wildlife and its management,” Baloch adds.

Pakistan, especially Sindh was once a generous host to a variety of animals and migratory birds.

Creating awareness in this regard is important as in our country, especially Sindh, forests which form a crucial link in the chain of ecosystem sustainability, are replete with a host of problems — from deadly deforestation to ever-increasing encroachment. As a matter of fact, wildlife is often the first casualty of this ecological disturbance. “Apart from the loss of habitat, poor wildlife legislation is also a contributing factor in the deteriorating state of wildlife in Sindh,” says Environmental journalist Satram Sangi. “Illegal hunting of tamed animals is often carried out by influential people; meagre fines and penalties prescribed in the Wildlife Act have further eroded the writ across the province’’ he says.

The Sufi Anwar Shah Safari Park is a success story of public-private partnership in an area which is otherwise considered a most hostile land for wildlife. These joint ventures to preserve/protect natural habitats would not only help in conserving biodiversity to a great extent but would also give a boost to eco-tourism. Efforts to conserve/protect forests and wetlands that are home for wild animals can save a number of threatened species on the verge of extinction.

Published in Dawn, Sunday Magazine, June 29th, 2014