Pearl of the Orient

Published September 28, 2014

One of the first things every tourist should know when visiting Hong Kong is that the locals do not wear sunglasses. So if you want to stand out as a tourist, go ahead, wear sunglasses and be ready to get fleeced at the flea markets that are an integral part of the Hong Kong day and nightlife.

For me Hong Kong has always been a fascinating place; I had always pictured it as a very modern Manhattanesque city yet with a mystical East Asia-type culture. Who can’t recall the skyline photographs of Hong Kong showing black skyscrapers next to a blue sea that both during the night and daytime seems an enthralling place?

Hong Kong became a British colony after China ceded it to Britain after the First Opium War in 1842. Later, Kowloon Peninsula and the New Territories along with 235 islands were leased to Britain for 99 years. It was occupied by Japan during the Pacific War (1941-45) after which Britain resumed control until 1997.


Asia’s melting pot blends languages and cultures into a mixture that defies expectations


Thus, here you will find a wonderful blend of British history and Chinese culture. It is one of the most densely populated areas in the world, but maybe because of the vast facilities such as efficient communication systems, systematic transportation system and efficient systems where people are willing to follow law and order, it does not seem to be overpopulated.

One of the first things that catch your attention when you land in Hong Kong is the beauty of the place, especially the green mountains that are enveloped in white clouds. It is the last thing I had expected in Hong Kong given that the image most people have of the city is that of a densely populated city with high rise buildings.

The city consists of Hong Kong Island, the Kowloon Peninsula and the New Territories, Lantau Island and over 200 more islands. The airport is situated at Lantau Island and you travel through bridges and tunnels via Kowloon to reach Hong Kong Island.

A word of advice: don’t forget to take a pair of comfortable joggers. The landscape is hilly to mountainous with steep slopes which make walking quite challenging. Even a short walk from your hotel to the bus, tram or train stop is gruelling as you may have to walk up hills or down slopes; this becomes even more difficult when you are returning from shopping or sightseeing.

  A view of a street lined with highrise buildings.
A view of a street lined with highrise buildings.

For travelling around Hong Kong, there are many options: from subway trains, trams, buses, coaches, taxis, ferries to walking. The most effective is the subway trains (locally called MTR) and taxis, though taxis are quite expensive. The ideal thing to do is to travel by tram (which costs around HK$2.3 [HK$1=US$0.13] per trip to anywhere on the route) to the nearest point to your destination and take alternate transport; this will save you a lot. For trips to Kowloon, ferry is the best option which also costs around HK$ 2.5 per trip. Travelling on the tram, I could not help thinking about how Karachi would have looked like if it still had trams and was allowed to modernise and advance like Hong Kong and other S.E. Asian cities; maybe there is still hope.

No trip to Hong Kong should start without first going across to the Kowloon Peninsula and look across to the Hong Kong Island and be spellbound by the view of the skyline. In the daytime you see tall buildings against a foreground of blue water behind which majestic green mountains stand; the landscape transforms from evening to night and is even more beautiful. The turning on of the lights in the buildings and neon lights that reflect off the harbour, the movement of lit boats and cruise ships in the river, and the lights show that takes place every day at 8pm makes you want to sit down for a while. For this purpose viewing platforms and seats are already present.

  The magic castle.
The magic castle.

The best place for this view is the TST Promenade and Avenue of Stars, looking over Victoria Harbour directly at the Hong Kong Island skyline. You can also have great views from the ferry while crossing Victoria Harbour. Views of Kowloon from Hong Kong Island though not popular enough, were quite nice and from the Victoria Peak were also spellbinding.

It is sad that Hong Kong is not a popular destination for Pakistanis, though it’s an ideal destination, much better than Kuala Lumpur, Singapore and Bangkok simply because there is so much to do and see. There is no language issue and the people are generally welcoming. The only issue is food as halal food is either not available, is not given importance or is available at exorbitant prices. As a tourist, I’d rather spend more on sightseeing than spending too much on food; we took canned food with us for the days we were staying there. It became a bit of a hassle but when you can make sandwiches and take them with you for sightseeing; it makes life easier.

Ngong Ping 360 on Lantan Island consists of the Ngong Ping Cable Car and the Ngong Ping Village close to the Tian Tan Buddha (also known as Big Buddha) and Po Lin Monastery. It is basically a cable car ride to the top of the mountain where a huge 112ft Buddha statue stands, which in itself is an imposing sight. The stairs that lead up to the Buddha are quite steep but the sight from the base of the statue is truly breathtaking, giving a 360 degree view across the island and must not be missed.

The birthday girl with Sleeping Beauty.
The birthday girl with Sleeping Beauty.

However, the real attraction is the cable car ride which during the 25-minute journey, gives you panoramic views over the North Lantau Country Park, the South China Sea, Hong Kong International Airport, the Tung Chung valley, Ngong Ping Plateau and surrounding terrain and waterways. You also get the best possible view of the Big Buddha and Po Lin Monastery. The cable car has standard and crystal cabins, with glass bottoms which surely should not be missed. Though they cost a little extra, the experience is unforgettable. There is something exhilarating about standing on glass with nothing between you and the ground over hundreds of feet away.

The view from the Victoria Peak of Hong Kong Island and Kowloon literally takes your breath away for reasons other than the fact that it is one of the highest points on the island. Reach the place well before sunset so that you can see the whole view change from sunlight and black / grey buildings to nighttime when the buildings glitter and the sea reflects the light. You may have to wait for some time to get a good place to take that ‘Profile picture’ but it is genuinely worth the wait.

However, I would recommend not taking a Peak Tram, as because of the queue you waste a lot of time waiting and the tram is so crowded that you may not have a view outside the window. Besides, if you are going to the peak for the view, might as well enjoy it there which is much better.

Hong Kong in summer is torturous. It is really humid and because it’s close to the sea, you sweat a lot and if it rains, it does not stop for days. I was told that winter is as bad with the biting cold and freezing wind. It is good to take a lot of light clothes and shorts but also raincoats.

Ocean Park is a huge animal, ocean and amusement park in Hong Kong Island. It has roller coasters (both the upside down one and the normal one), animal exhibits with giant pandas, jelly fish, penguins and an aquarium, besides the rainforest ride and other fast and furious rides. The highlight for me was the Giant Panda enclosure, cable car ride down the mountain and the penguin enclosure. It is easily accessed by bus and taxi but if you take the taxi, though it is a little expensive, you will reach earlier and it is hassle free.

The main reason for my trip to Hong Kong was to celebrate by daughter’s seventh birthday at the Disney World, which is known as the happiest place on earth. From entering Disney World in the morning to the fireworks show at night, each and every moment is memorable. The highlight of my daughter’s day was having a whole crowd of actors dressed as characters sing happy birthday for her and meeting all her favorite Disney characters in real life — Sleeping Beauty, Bella of Beauty and the Best, Cinderella and Snow White, Mickey, Minnie, Goofy, Pluto and Tinker bell, etc. As it was my daughter’s birthday, she got special attention from these characters.

Every day at 3pm, there is a parade that takes place on Main Street with all the Disney characters; this is something that should not be missed. The other attractions at Disney include seven themed areas — Main Street, USA, Fantasyland, Adventureland, Tomorrowland, Grizzly Gulch, Mystic Point, and Toy Story Land. Each area has different rides and amusement areas including character meetings. As the area is huge, it is difficult to cover the whole place in one day so reaching early, leaving late and getting a two-day pass is recommended. Another piece of advice is being ready to get tired. Take plenty of liquids and have instant food on hand ready for any dip in energy and sugar levels, especially if you visit in the summer.

No trip by a South Asian to Hong Kong would be complete without a visit to the Kowloon Masjid and Chunking Mansion. Chunking Mansion is a one-stop stop for any local delicacy you may feel like — from chicken karhai to palak paneer. It gives a feeling of Empress Market or Rainbow Centre in Karachi where you may get everything you wish to buy! I felt it’s an apt comparison between the two cities, as ours despite being the largest city of the country, is way behind the world which is a saddening fact. Nonetheless, let’s hope the ‘city of lights’ gets transformed to some percentage of the city I recently explored, to start with! So till we meet again, joi-gin!

The writer is a Marketing professional, and can be contacted at adilnoormohd@gmail.com

Published in Dawn, Sunday Magazine, September 28th, 2014

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