RAWALPINDI: The historic Bhabra Bazaar is still the best place to head to in the twin cities if you have a craving for traditional sub continental cuisine.

From sri paya to halwa puri, gajar ka halwa to rewaris, and Kashmiri kulchas to patoray, nearly all kinds of traditional food indigenous to our region can be found in the two-to-three square kilometers that comprise the bazaar.

Once home to wealthy Hindu, Sikh and Jain families, after partition, Bhabra Bazaar became a refuge for many immigrants from New Delhi, Kashmir, Bihar and Indian Punjab.

Today, the variety of food available in this market harks back to that cultural diversity.

But perhaps the most popular food item, which has also made its way onto the dinner tables of most fashionable households, are Dahi Baray.

A common sight at any iftar spread during Ramazan, dahi baray are a staple for any occasion, whether one is entertaining guests from abroad or potential suitors for one’s children.

The freshly-made yogurt-based dish is considered a complete meal by many, especially on the other side of the border, where vegetarian food is in high demand.

Loaded with potatoes, baray made from gram flour, bondi, crisp papari, onions, green chilies and garnished with spices, mint and tomato paste, it is not difficult to imagine who this simple yet ornate dish has become so popular with the people of the Indian subcontinent.

In Bhabra Bazaar, Lucky Dahi Baray is considered the most authentic outlet by discerning foodies from Pindi.

Indeed, many residents of the twin cities make the pilgrimage to Bhabra Bazaar just to sample a plateful of dahi baray from this shop.

Although located on the dusty and crowded main road, the proprietor of Lucky’s shop goes to great lengths to ensure that his wares are not affected. Each dish or tray of ingredients is kept covered to shield against dirt and flies, that can be seen buzzing around the shop.

“The recipe we use belonged to my mother and grandmother. Our family came here from New Delhi after partition and we have been running this shop for the last 40 years,” said Abdul Majeed, the owner.

He said that his son and his family helped him prepare all the ingredients freshly at home. But the mixing of all these delectables is a task he guards jealously. It’s all in the proportion, he says, and he mixes with the gut instinct of a seasoned professional.

“The mix and balance of spices is what makes my dahi baray taste so different,” he said.

Majeed usually opens shop in the afternoon, but most of his clients come around in the evening.

“I sell around 700 to 800 plates every day. We also sell items such as boondi and bhallay and homemade chaat masala separately,” he says, beaming.

He said that while he also sold fruit chaat, but most of his customers were interested in dahi baray.

“I come here whenever I’m out shopping in Raja Bazaar or Moti Bazaar,” says Rida Shahid after having downed a plate of dahi baray at the shop.

She says she is hooked onto the freshness of the ingredients Majeed uses and prefers her dahi baray to have a spicky kick to them.

“Though one can make this at home, the shop’s recipe and taste is very different,” she says.

Khalil Sultan says he does not like to eat roadside food.

“But some shops in Bhabra Bazaar, particularly the dahi baray wallah, have a unique taste that cannot be found anywhere else at such reasonable rates,” he said.

Published in Dawn, October 20th, 2014