ISLAMABAD: Of the ‘eight-thousanders’ (14 mountains on earth that are higher than 8,000 metres) only two, Nanga Parbat and K2, have never been climbed in the winter season.

While there have been a number of attempts to climb Nanga Parbat, the last time someone tried to climb K2 in the winter, was a seasoned Russian team back in 2011-12.

The team is notorious for being the toughest climbing team and taking routes that others would not dare to in winter conditions.

“But they too had to abort the mission after losing a climber to the frigid Killer Mountain,” said Alpine Club of Pakistan Executive body member Karrar Haidri.

But now a veteran trio from three countries has decided to take on the challenge, attempting the climb from the steep and shady north side.

The team is made up of Kazakh mountaineer Denis Urubko, Polish Adam Bielecki and Spanish Alex Txikon who had joined forces last spring on Kanchenjunga in an attempt on a new route that was unsuccessful. In a few weeks they will turn their boots to K2.

According to the ACP spokesperson, the most seasoned of the three mountaineers Denis Urubko made an attempt to climb K2 in the winter of 2003 led by legendary Polish winter climber Krzyszt of Wielicki.

Denis Urubko was one of the two mountaineers selected for the final summit push but had to abort the climb to rescue his teammate. Urubko had left his ice axe at the turning point around Camp IV hoping to one day come back for it.

Denis Urubko is often joined by Italian Simone Moro on his climbs but Moro will not be joining Urubko this winter.

Moro said on his website, “The only reason why I am not going is because a few days after the summit of Gasherbrum II, my wife dreamt that I was dying during the winter ascent of K2. When I have options, I thought why should I go and take a risk on K2 while Nanga Parbat is still there. So I decided to go to Nanga Parbat.”

ACP said that Polish Adam Bielecki has two winter firsts. Gasherbrum I and Broad Peak, and he also climbed K2 in the summer of 2012 via the normal route.

His fellow climbers, and him reached 8,000 metres on K2 in 2011.

“It is a big challenge; the weather is the toughest factor. With the winds, the cold, the exhaustion, the odds are stacked up against a climber,” said Karrar Haidri.

Published in Dawn, October 27th, 2014