October may have breezed through for Areeb as this Dubai-based Pakistani designer prepared for her jewellery exhibition, but owing to the experience of her mother surviving breast cancer, she never forgot for a minute that October is also global Breast Cancer Awareness month. In fact, it upsets her that the disease isn’t taken as seriously as it should be.

The theme for her new jewellery collection A Look Within is unique because the topic is not one that she picked on a whim — it’s personal and close to her heart.

“My mother is the reason I decided to work on breast cancer — she is a survivor. My mother, unlike many women in Pakistan, was aware of the disease and was sensible enough to go to the doctor and get herself looked at as soon as she suspected something was wrong,” says Areeb.

Breech

But not many women in Pakistan complain of breast cancer, despite its high incidence: over 40,000 women in Pakistan perish on a yearly basis due to breast cancer. A recent study from the Rawalpindi General Hospital showed that over 70per cent of women have no idea what breast cancer is, while another 88pc were unaware of how to perform a breast exam, and 68pc were oblivious to the implications of finding a lump in their breast. These are harrowing stats for a disease that can be controlled if detected in the early stages.

Inspired by her mother’s incredible battle to survive breast cancer, artist Areeb Masood turns jewellery into art that educates

“Cultural taboos are a large part of why we are unable to deal with breast cancer,” says Areeb, of the silencing and shaming that women experience when it comes to discussing breasts. She finds the situation disheartening. “Even when women do know what it entails, they remain hesitant to speak about their breasts and any problems related to them. Sometimes this means that they act too late,” she explains.

Spread (back)

It was a combination of Areeb’s distaste for these taboos and the rampant ignorance about the issue that led her to create her jewellery line A Look Within — a hauntingly beautiful collection of pieces of wearable jewellery that inspire both the wearer and the admirer to scrutinise the very source of breast cancer.

“I often think what it is that I could do that would bring something new to peoples’ minds than the traditional preconceived notions ... creating designs that can make people think in a different way is what drives me,” she says.

Spread (front)

“I wanted to work on a collection that spoke about breast cancer itself. My pieces depict how the cancerous cells spread if undetected and what happens internally and externally to the body during the spread of breast cancer,” she says while describing her work.

The art pieces include Internal vs. External, which features a pendant made of sterling silver, brass and copper. The pendant can be worn both open and closed. “This piece is based on the idea of what to expect after a mastectomy, where one has to remove either one of both of one’s breasts. One side is perfectly healthy, while the other is just skin over veins and bones,” says Areeb. “It also speaks about how life goes on after your mastectomy; you’ve dealt with the disease and now you have a life to look forward to,” she adds.

Rupture (back)

Spread is another necklace that is crafted from Sterling silver and copper granules. The design features vein-like structures to signify the subtle nature of the disease. “It spreads through the rest of the body while giving almost no indication of its presence, apart from the formation of a small lump or the wrinkling of skin on the external body,” Areeb explains.

The collection also has brooch pieces such as Breech — made of copper and brass — that highlight how some cancers have no external indication such as skin discoloration or a lump. Instead there is expulsion of fluid and blood from the nipple. “This piece is based on the idea that the disease is seeping through and trying to tell you that is exists, all you have to do is pay attention,” says Areeb. Another piece titled Rupture — made of Sterling silver revolves around depicting the final stages of the disease.

The entire collection consists of thought provoking pieces that surprisingly convey a lot more information about the disease than most contemporary movements aiming towards augmenting awareness on the subject. She feels that often awareness efforts end up “pink washing” the issue instead of making a real difference.

“While the pink ribbon does an incredible job raising funds and support for cancer research, it does not say anything about the disease itself,” Areeb says. “Breast cancer is not a bubble gum pink illness, it is serious and harsh and most people do not know anything about how it affects them until they or someone they care about is diagnosed with it.

Areeb’s artistic process did not come easy. Connecting the dots between jewels and cancer is not a path many have taken before. “It was hard, especially in the beginning when I decided that this is what I wanted to work on. Many people asked me why I was focusing on the disease, as it is fairly disturbing to research and work on. I also purposefully decided not to use the pink ribbon symbol, which most people use to identify breast cancer with.”

Areeb found herself to be in a position to help others by passing on the lessons she learnt from her mother’s traumatic experience: “I believe very strongly that jewellery is the most intimate form of sculptural art. I thought what better way to make a woman think about being more proactive than to inspire through something equally visible and intimate as the jewellery she wears!”

Her design philosophy is simple, “When I would tell someone I’m studying jewellery design, I would often be asked: ‘So do you do bridal jewellery? What’s in this year?’ It was almost as if no other type of jewellery existed.”

Slowly but surely, such reactions are becoming a things of the past for Areeb; response to the collection has been overwhelming and intense. “I have met women who had breast cancer themselves. There were others who had a loved one who was diagnosed. Many had tears in their eyes once I introduced the collection. There are others who have shown great appreciation for it,” narrates.

Edgy chic jewellery that doubles as wearable art is already picking up speed. But when it is combined with depth in terms of concept, it becomes all the more versatile and resplendent. Areeb’s designs too carry a message from their sculptor: “Breast cancer takes away the most visible sign of femininity in the most invasive way possible.”

October has passed, but breast cancer awareness with Areeb will continue the year round.

Published in Dawn, Sunday Magazine, November 2nd, 2014