ISLAMABAD: For the unique smoky flavour of freshly-caught fish barbequed over red hot coals, one needs to drive out of the Capital and head southwest towards Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. Some 45 kms away on the Rawalpindi-Kohat Road is the Shahpur Dam near Fateh Jang. A small reservoir built on the Nandana River, in Attock District, Shahpur Dam provides irrigation water to the many citrus orchards in the area. The dam is also replete with many species of fish.

Approaching the scenic reservoir, set against the backdrop of the Kala Chitta hills, one is greeted by about half a dozen shops set up along the road, specialising in barbequed fish.

Most shops offer both outdoor and indoor seating areas. Sitting in the quaint reed and bamboo stalls set up in the lawns next to the shop, guests can see their food being prepared and have their senses tantalised by the mouth-watering aromas wafting from the barbeque grills.

The best of these shops are the neighbours Akorwal Fish Point and Abaseen Fish Point. Akrowal Fish Point has a much larger setup and the indoor seating is spread over three floors.

Outdoor seating is also available in the lawn. A large barbeque grill faces the main road and a kitchen spreads out behind it, where a dozen men are busy chopping meat and preparing marinades. On cold days, warming hands by the hot grill and appetising the senses with the smell of barbequing meat is a treat in itself.

Abaseen Fish point offers outdoor seating in the lawn and inside charming bamboo and reed huts where tables have been set up. One hut is reserved for families and another has a large carpet and cushions so guests can sit on the floor and eat from a traditional dastarkhwan.

Fish barbeques on the banks of the Shahpur Dam are a rare treat

The cooking methods at these restaurants are influenced by Pakhtun cuisine. A specially prepared metal grate is used to barbeque a whole fish over hot coals. The fish is marinated overnight and grilled fresh for each customer. A whole fish is placed in the cage-like grate which is then shut and locked.

The long handle attached to this device allows the cooks to turn the fish over the fire. The skin and the marinade turn crispy with the heat and the cooks give a sprinkling of oil to the fish every so often. The oil sizzles over the skin and seeps into the meat, keeping it moist and tender.

At the Akhorwal Fish Point, chef Zaheer Khan explains that the metal grate is specially made for the restaurants by blacksmiths. “We have a number of sizes and use them according to the size of the order. We can grill up to four fish on one grate,” he says.

Rahu fish being grilled on a specially-prepared metal grate at Akhorwal Fish point. — Photos by the writer

“This fish barbeque recipe is popular in my area. I come from a village near Jahangira which is on banks of the Kabul River in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, right before the river converges with the Indus River in Attock. There is plenty of fresh fish up there,” he says.

When asked about the marinade, he smiles and says “I can’t share the recipe, it’s a secret.”

Two types of this grilled ‘rahu’ fish are offered – salty and spicy. The spicy grilled fish has a crispy, smoky tasting exterior which reveals delicious flaky meat underneath.

The thick skin of rahu fish is excellent for grilling because while it gets slightly burnt and crispy itself, it prevents the meat from becoming too dry.

The crispy and spicy skin should be combined with the meat in every bite to balance the spiciness of the skin with the salty meat. The fish may be scooped up with a piece of nan or eaten on its own.

The salty grilled fish is similar but uses less spice and is saltier to taste. A slightly tangy chutney is served with the fish, which adds to its flavour.

On the grill, next to the whole barbequed fish are fish tikkas-cubed boneless fish marinated in a combination of spices and threaded through skewers.

On the menu, the restaurants refer to the fish tikkas as ‘Saimon Tikka’ and claim that the fish used is Salmon from Karachi. Boneless fish is not raised in dams as larger fishes can eat the small boneless ones, so boneless fish is almost always brought from Karachi or even as far afield as China or Vietnam.

These fish tikkas are spicier and less crispy than the grilled fish. The fish itself has a stronger, saltier flavour than the grilled fish. As the tikkas are boneless, they are far easier to eat than the grilled bone-in fish. Whatever one’s preference, this barbequed fish is worth the drive to Shahpur Dam.

On a perfect sunny winter day, one can have the freshly grilled fish packed to eat at the banks of the scenic dam, an experience that beats eating at any restaurant in the capital.

Published in Dawn March 16th , 2015

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