In the pre-Facebook era, when social media was limited to Flicker and a couple of other websites, I saw a picture of Gilkey memorial. The composition, the content and the depth of subject was so captivating that it kept me glued to the screen for a long time. At that time, I had no idea where that heaven on Earth is and how one can get there. Years of research and providence ultimately took me there and made the Karakorams my ultimate and most favoured destination.

Karakoram is not a child’s playground where every Tom, Dick and Harry can go. The moment you take the decision of going to this kingdom where the writ of nature is all in all, your trial starts. From gathering necessary equipment and clothing till you are back, it really tests the mettle of men. If the tests are not ordinary, the reward too is priceless.

To opt for the weather-dependent flight to Skardu or a bone-breaking ride via Karakoram Highway could be the first question. Having God on my side, I got the flight and landed in Skardu within minutes from Islamabad. Skardu itself is a beautiful paradise which offers so much to see.

En route to Shigar Valley, one of the 17 valleys of CKNP

Skardu is also a gateway to the kingdom of mountains where clusters of peaks are located. Apart from K-2, the second highest peak on the Earth, there are more than 60 peaks that are higher than 7,000 metres in altitude and 60-70 mountaineering expeditions try their luck in the Karakoram each year. The Central Karakoram National Park (CKNP) possesses plenty of peaks higher than the highest peaks (which are quite timid in terms of elevation comparison) of other continents.

Of the world’s tallest 14 mountains, four are in Karakoram, neighbouring each other in close quarters. Even though K-2 is divided between Pakistan and China, its Pakistani face which is the Southern face, is much popular and more often visited than the Chinese side. If you stand on the summit of K-2, your one leg is in Pakistan and the other one is in China!

According to etymological history, Karakoram is a Turkish term which means Black Gravel. The name was given by ancient traders to this area due to the rubble of mountains that experience wind and water erosion on timeless bases.

In 1993, core areas of mountains and adjacent valleys were declared as Pakistan’s largest national park and a protected area for the safety and survival of the flora and fauna in its natural habitat. The official name of Central Karakoram National Park (CKNP) was decided for this park which covers 10,000km square area. The park also falls under the category II of IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature).

A porter filling water bottle from a glacial stream of Biafo Glacier

The CKNP consists of two main zones, the Buffer Zone and the Core Zone. The Buffer Zone is part of the Core Zone which includes areas of higher degree of protection; whereas the Buffer Zone works as a corridor to facilitate tourist activities and human settlements that are present near the boundary of Buffer Zone. Due to unsustainable activities and continual spread of Buffer Zone, a “Transition Zone” is the need of the hour for preservation of the unique eco-system and conservation of unrivalled landscapes.

According to the last census of the area, there were approximately 350 (permanent and non-permanent) human settlements and the population was about 200,000. There are 17 valleys within the boundary of CKNP, of which Shimshal, Hushe and Shigar valleys are more famous.

The last human settlement of Pakistan’s north — Askoli village

The Snow leopard (Pakistan’s heritage animal), Himalayan brown bear, Ibex and Markhor (Pakistan’s state animal) are famous examples of the wild life of CKNP. Both the snow leopard and markhor are endangered species. The former is on the Red List of IUCN’s threatened species and the latter is on the near threatened list.

Interestingly, 38 per cent area of the park is covered by the glaciers making CKNP the largest source of fresh water for Pakistan. World’s longest glacial system outside Polar Region the combination of Biafo (67km) and Hispar (49km) glaciers (also known as Snow Lake Trek) is situated in the territory of CKNP. But unfortunately, a pristine part of this park — the 76km-long Siachin which is the world’s second longest glacier outside Polar Region — has become the world’s highest battlefield; Pakistan and India are engaged in war with each other at Siachin glacier where cold kills more than bullets and bombs!

Another feather in the cap of CKNP is Gondogoro La which is the world’s highest mountain pass at a height of 5,940m. The stunning vista this pass offers has no parallel in the world because from the top of its summit (if weather permits) one can see four mountains that are beyond 8,000m — namely K-2 (8,611m), Gasherbrum I (8,080m), Broad Peak (8,047) and Gasherbrum II (8,035m).

There are 23 species of reptiles in CKNP —at the junction of Baltoro and Biafo glaciers

Usually people ask me why do I go to such remote places and risk life. My questions answer their questions. Can we see sky filled with a gazillion stars and Milky Way galaxy in the modern yet polluted metropolises? Can we gauge our ability to survive in our monotonous lives of urban cities with the yard stick of mechanised routines? Can we even realise the worth of natural resources and potential that our country possesses by being an arm chair web surfers?

A famous Kazakhastani climber Anatoli Boukreev once said that, “Mountains are not stadiums where I satisfy my ambition to achieve, they are the cathedrals where I practice my religion ... I go to them as humans go to worship. From their lofty summits I view my past, dream of the future and, with an unusual acuity, am allowed to experience the present moment ... my vision cleared, my strength renewed. In the mountains I celebrate creation. On each journey I am reborn.”

Indeed he was right, in the loneliness of harsh and rugged mountains, after enduring the torments of journey and surviving the unprecedented events, one’s vision gets crystal cleared and strength regained. The bewildering beauty of nature creates a new will to live and face the harsh realities of life, it compels one to travel and discover more, dream more and achieve more.

Mountains are not just piles of rocks and rubble; they shape the landscape and help to support the ecosystem which is conducive for the long term and healthy survival of humanity. There are in total 29 national parks or protected areas in Pakistan for the conservation of natural habitat. CKNP is the biggest and the most important one, for the benefit of present and future generations; it is of paramount importance to not only declare or call those precious territories as National Parks but to actually protect and preserve them because actions are always louder than words. Otherwise our greed for the skins of snow leopards and hunger for the meat of markhor would leave only the pictures and stories of their extinction on the servers of Google and Microsoft!

Published in Dawn, Sunday Magazine, September 13th, 2015

On a mobile phone? Get the Dawn Mobile App: Apple Store | Google Play