ISLAMABAD: Despite having ruled the subcontinent for nearly a century, the British left little mark on the local culinary scene. As a result, even though there are plenty of restaurants offering ‘continental food’, or some sort of exotic European or Asian cuisine, there had never been a place that served food originating in the British Isles. That is, not until now.

Tucked away in the small commercial area in E-7, ‘The Kitchen’ has quickly made waves among the expatriate community in Islamabad, and developed a small, but loyal following among locals.

On offer are traditional favourites such as shepherd’s pie, fish and chips with vinegar, roast dinners and, of course, the traditional English breakfast.

The open-plan kitchen is one of the first things you will notice walking in, and it somehow reassures the customer that the food they will receive will be prepared fresh in front of their very eyes.

Rubia Bhola, the owner of this establishment, started out with a delivery business called ‘Sandwich Boss’, which would provide lunches to diplomats and expatriates, mostly in the Diplomatic Enclave. This would explain why she says her sandwiches are still some of the best-selling items.

Picking up the menu, one is staggered by the variety of non-meat items on offer; most of the soups are vegetable-only and there’s even a separate sandwich menu for vegetarians.

New eatery tries to reintroduce English food to the spice-crazy subcontinent

“It’s such a relief to be able to find proper vegetarian food in Islamabad. At most places, even the salads and the soups are non-vegetarian, and when you ask for something without meat, they end up offering me chicken instead and I have to remind them that’s also an animal,” says Fatima Zeb, a researcher who frequents the restaurant.

Apart from their excellent take on the traditional English fish and chips, the shepherd’s pie is a must-have item here. This mince, carrot and mashed potato concoction is the very definition of comfort food and guaranteed to suit most palates.

“Even though the chef picked up the recipes quite quickly, I still have to keep an eye on him just to ensure he’s not put some spices in the shepherd’s pie,” Ms Bhola jokes. But her paranoia is justified; English food is famously bland and completely unlike anything the subcontinent has to offer.

Her own interest in food came from watching cooking shows on British TV. “The first time I had a roast dinner, I saw the recipe on a cooking show and made it myself,” she said.

Even though English food isn’t normally seen as exciting, it is a welcome change for the more health conscious or those who like their spices light.

Take the roast beef dinner; which features strips of roasted beef alongside some Yorkshire pudding and mixed veggies, drowned in generous dollops of gravy. The meal is perfect marriage of subtle flavours and simple English cooking, but is extremely satisfying, even for those of a spicy disposition.

Even though the restaurant has only been open since early January, it owes most of its customers to word-of-mouth recommendations. There is a Facebook page, but it is deceptively low-key. But thanks to free tastings she has offered in foreign missions, there is a regular stream of expatriate clients who order takeout or come and eat in.

After the main course, the drinks and dessert menu should not be skipped. The coffees are properly made and tastes like actual coffee, not the instant stuff one gets over the counter. The hot chocolate, which comes with a marshmallow, is also a great choice for those cold winter evenings.

There is also a vast variety of desserts and sweet breakfast items, such as the stuffed French toast or the Nutella pancakes. Small-bite sized cheesecakes and tarts adorn the main counter, and Ms Bhola says she wants to include more baked goods such as cakes and other bakery items.

Published in Dawn, February 22nd, 2016