Q. I have a Bougainvillea that gets full sun and is smothered in beautiful, thick blooms all year round. How can I propagate from it?

A. Very easily! Simply take cuttings, approximately six inches long is ideal, from mature, woody stems (not immature, sappy, green ones). Check the cutting over for ‘nodes’ — these are raised bumps from which new growth develops — and trim the base of the cutting off at an angle about one inch below such a node: also cut off the growing tip from the top of the cutting and remove at least half of its existing leaves. The fully prepared cutting will probably be about four inches in length. Push the cutting — the best is to do it at an angle — into trays/pots of reasonable soil/compost, place in partial shade and keep well watered at all times. In two to three months both roots and new growth should begin to appear. Leave undisturbed for at least six months before transplanting into larger pots or into prepared garden ground. There is no need to use an expensive rooting hormone/powder but, if you like, you can lightly dust the bottom of each cutting with cinnamon powder as this also promotes root development. Take lots of cuttings each time you prune back your existing Bougainvillea so that you can share — or plant swop — with friends.

Q. My Bougainvillea is in a huge pot, it gets full sun and I give it very little water but it gets very few flowers. How can I encourage it to bloom?

All your gardening queries answered

A. Apply generous doses of purely organic fertiliser, once a month only, in February, March and April and continue to give just enough water to prevent wilting and it should — fingers crossed — bloom heavily over the following months.

Q. The Bougainvillea in my garden is suddenly sprouting too many shoots. I understand that they need pruning but how do I work out which shoots to prune?

A. First of all cut out any dead or diseased stems, cutting them right back to either healthy growth or to the actual root base if needed. Next: thin out overcrowded stems/branches to improve air circulation and the overall appearance, cutting right back to the main stem or back to root level if needed. If the plant still looks overcrowded, cut out old growth leaving new growth only as heaviest flowering is on this.

Q. The Alstonia tree outside my boundary wall has developed sores on both sides of its leaves. They are hideous and are now turning brown ... just like smallpox! What shall I do?

A. In our part of the world Alstonias are often plagued by minute flying insects called Pauropsylla tuberculata. These pests lay their eggs inside the leaves and then fly away. The eggs, safe inside the protective leaves, hatch into larvae forming what are known as ‘galls’ (blisters) in the process. The larvae eat their way out of the leaves, develop wings and fly off to repeat the cycle. Control is extremely difficult once the pest has gained a foothold in a locality. Removing each and every infected leaf — and disposing of them, well away from your garden, in a sensible manner — may help. Whenever so much as a single gall/blister appears, the process should be repeated as it should eventually minimise the problem. But, in cases of severe infestation, the shrubs/trees can become such a problem — they may even die — that they are best removed, soil completely changed and a different species planted instead. Sorry to be the bearer of such bad news.

Q. Can olive trees be grown in Jhang? If so, then how best to do this?

A. Please follow this link https://www.dawn.com/news/1233061/grow-your-own-olives for all the information you need on growing olives.

Q. Can pineapples be grown in Karachi or the coastal areas of Balochistan? If so, what is the procedure?

A. Yes! Pineapples grow well in and around Karachi: they were first grown on a commercial basis in Badin in the 1960s. With adequate wind protection, they should do well in coastal Balochistan too. They need very rich, well-draining, preferably organic soil/compost, lots of warmth, sunshine and high humidity. Plants are sometimes available in nurseries but it is easy to propagate your own from the crown of a purchased fruit: take a firm grip on the leaves and twist the crown off the main body of the fruit. Carefully, one at a time, pull off withered lower leaves until only healthy leaves remain and also remove any bits of fruit adhering to the leaf base. The cleaned up base, with its leaves, can be either rooted in water or in shallow trays of well-draining soil/compost. Once new leaves begin to appear, transfer into large prepared pots or into prepared garden ground, allowing one square metre per plant. It can take 18 months to two years for the plant to fruit and it can, with care, continue fruiting for up to 10 years.

Q. Under which circumstances is root pruning necessary? How is it done and at what time of year?

A. Not all trees/shrubs/plants will tolerate having their roots pruned. Please specify, exactly, which species of plant you wish to know about in this respect.

Q. How can we grow lavender in Karachi?

A. Lavandula needs to be treated as an early autumn sown annual in Karachi with only quick flowering species — such as Lavandula hybrida spp. Lady, flowering in just four months from seed sowing — being grown.

Please continue sending your gardening queries to zahrahnasir@hotmail.com. It is important to include your location. The writer does not respond directly by email. Emails with attachments will not be opened. Commercial enquiries will be ignored.

Published in Dawn, EOS, November 19th, 2017