We have worn truck art and newspapers. We have walked the streets in embroidered trellises on our kameez fronts, and we have sported slogans printed on our daamans. The prints and colours we, women, have adorned for the last few years seemed to have been a regurgitation of designs thrown hastily on our style canvas with no connectivity or or even contrast. But now, it seems that Pakistani designers have finally started working on a more mature, subtle and well-balanced palette. Coco Chanel is known to have said, ‘Simplicity is the keynote of all true elegance,’ and we have finally found elegance in this season’s lawn.

This year, floral prints are a rage and they come embroidered or digitally printed. Since our love affair with damask and Jacobean patterns is still going strong, designers have churned out exactly that for this year’s lawn. A simple pastel background with swaying branches of whimsical blooms is the way to go in this sweltering summer.

Although the necklines are relatively simple, it’s the sleeves that are being experimented with. Most three-piece combos come with embellished sleeves and simple bottoms. It seems white or black lowers is the style statement but it makes one think why should one spend extra to buy a complete three-piece ensemble when they can easily purchase a cheaper two-piece option and team it up with a basic trouser they may already have hanging in their wardrobes.

After last year’s bold and brash collections, this summer designers present a more mature, subtle and well-balanced palette

“When you insist on buying high-end designer wear, you cannot be picky about what colour trousers/shalwars they are selling,” says Samina Raza. “I think women who choose to buy branded outfits look more towards the quality of the fabric and it is definitely better than wearing a mint-condition shirt with old worn-out trousers. I buy the whole package whether it is a white shalwar or a black trouser.”

Haya Rameez finds three-piece suits hassle-free. “It does not limit your buying to certain colours that you can match with the trousers you already have,” she says. “The colours available this season are not your typical ones that you can find a pant/shalwar for, they look far more attractive when worn with the exact same hue as that of your kameez.”

However, Faiqa Salman questions the logic of buying these three-piece suits. “Who is still buying three-piece suits? I don’t understand how women can be so naïve,” she says. “Most of these combos of three come with white or near-white trousers. Who would want to spend 1,500 rupees extra for a trouser or shalwar that you can buy separately for far less, in those colours? Certainly not a working woman who knows the worth of her hard-earned money.”

While lawn was all the rage the previous years, it seems women have lost a fraction of their passion for the fabric since the market is now flooded with light-weight cotton that lasts longer and is just as comfortable to wear. Most well-known designers have started to cater to the more bargain-conscious customer by creating a ‘basics’ line. The ‘basic’ line entails simple, single-coloured kurtis that are ideal for office wear and general day wear. These are hugely popular as they have the flexibility to be worn with denims or simple neutral-shade lowers.

The dupatta is also a point of contention as the female populace stands half-and-half when it comes to its efficacy. The proponents of three-piece suits favour the deal because they easily get a matching stole/dupatta with their purchase, while it is an unnecessary burden for the other half of the customer pool. Those in favour of a dupatta, often have the option to choose a suit with a lawn or chiffon dupatta. Some brands have also introduced cotton net dupattas.

Designers have their own reasons for their latest ensembles. A representative from AlZohaib Textiles says, “Our core aim is to design collections that target women from all walks of life and for all occasions.” Their recently-launched prêt wear under the label of ‘AzPrêt,’ comprises tunics with sleek and bold cuts, exciting designs, striking colours and enough embellishments for the outfits to be casual or semi-formal. Before Eid, they launched their designer collections — Mahiymaan, Mahnoor and Tabassum Mughal. “These lines are simple yet elegant; they are a mix of striking as well as muted colours to suit the tastes of the wider target market. Keeping the season’s needs in mind, the fabric we use needs to be refined with just enough embellishments as to not become overbearing in the heat,” he says.

Omar Saleem of Firdous Textiles explains the latest trends. “This season, Firdous Carnival range leans towards a wider range of colours in addition to the standard pastels, so we had bold colours and a high contrast in the colour palette. The designs are more on clean, simpler lines and the prints are used in combination with colour blocking. This stands out as a key lawn trend and is a break from last season’s overly busy prints. Classic elements such as chequers, stripes, geometric patterns and polka dots are present in most collections.”

Although trends lean towards simplicity this summer, some designers emphasise experimental and opulent looks. Designer Ayesha Ibrahim has chosen light colours for summer. “I have not taken inspiration from any era but it is my personal insight and instinct that has driven my hand to design the latest collection. Each ensemble concentrates on either a floral print or a geometric pattern, I do not mix them together.” Her prêt wear carries both short and long tops with plain, coloured lowers. She believes in embellishing lawn so that it can be worn to parties or special events and not just be limited to day wear.

Published in Dawn, EOS, July 1st, 2018