This week the city is literally a hotbed of politics; opposition politics that is. With the chairman of the PPP in town, holding anti-government press conferences, reconciliation with the PML-N seems to be inevitable. Attempts are under way in creating a grand coalition against the government. The very visible ‘conductor’, orchestrating the efforts, the ineffaceable Maulana; perhaps is this case the lead belonging to the one with most to lose. What is behind this sudden convergence of interests? Could it be the fact that the heads of the main political parties are all facing alleged corruption charges?

It seems the ruling party is in no mood to give any quarters. From the PM down to his ministers, especially the information minister, the anti-corruption rhetoric is vehement and venomous: at times too much and rather unpalatable. Perhaps it would be a wiser option to talk less and let actions speak for themselves. In any case, as the government stance hardens the greater the unity among the opposition. Their current mantra focuses upon the ineptitude of the government in running the country. A very sweeping statement considering the short time that the government has been in power. The latest in the endless criticism, one thinks, takes the cake. According to the Maulana, an Israeli plane was seen in Pakistani airspace, pointing to a secret deal with them, as with the Saudis. Personally, one thinks it is all a matter of bottomless wells of corruption running dry.

There is something to be said about Lahoris and food. A colleague for a couple of days seemed out of sorts. Upon enquiry he related that his family was quite unwell; stomach problems apparently. The next day he came in a rather cheerful mood and narrated how he had gone down to Allama Iqbal Town, on personal business, when he came across Waris Nihari. He could not resist and ordered some to take home. His praise for the delicacy was profuse. With all due apologies to the Kashmiris, the gentleman in question was a Butt. Yet, this passion for food is not confined to any singular fraternity; the incident neatly encapsulates the unbreakable bond between Lahoris and their food. We truly live to eat, whatever the consequences.

Talking of Nihari, it is not only one of the most popular dishes in our city but for that matter the entire sub-continent. Its origins are not clear. According to most sources it was either conceived in Delhi nearing the end of the Mughal Empire or in the royal kitchens of Awadh, or modern day Lucknow. Whatever the city it was clear that it was a dish for the nobility and as its name implies, Nahar (Arabic for morning); it was meant to be eaten in the morning. Personally, based on its spiciness, I subscribe to the legend that it was concocted by Hakims as a cure for the common cold. Sweat on the brow, a runny nose and a burning tongue means one is partaking of the authentic dish.

Indulging in a little nostalgia, the most popular outlet in our childhood was Nasir Bhai or Bhaiyya in Paisa Bazaar next to the Urdu Bazaar. Another famous name, as far as Nihari goes, Waris, was also in the vicinity. Unlike these days of pre-packaged masalas, it was a rare treat; much like Haleem these days, which has become akin to the daily ‘daal’. To get the treat you had to get up really early and deposit your container with the proprietor for any chance of getting the delicacy. It was not really a restaurant and for the walk-in customers, they had to partake of the dish on informal spreads on the pavement.

What made these dishes more delightful was the effort involved in getting to them. With branches all over the city and home delivery, the rarity and charm are all but gone. — (AmLahori@gmail.com)

Published in Dawn, October 29th, 2018

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