If Altit and Baltit forts in Hunza valley of Gilgit-Baltistan can be turned into tourist attractions, then why this can’t happen to the magnificent Chitral Fort and nearby Birmogh Lusht Fort, which are fast falling into ruin due to the authorities’ neglect, wonders resident Muhkamuddin, who recently visited Gilgit-Baltistan.

“The distance between the two forts of Hunza and their geographical location are almost like Chitral and Birmogh Lusht forts’. Our forts have magnificent structure, location and a rich history associated with them but we’ve miserably failed to include their visit to the itinerary of tourists. As a result, they’re not known to visitors,” he regrets.

Adjoining the Shahi Masjid, the Chitral Fort stands head and shoulders above other structures in the town. It is located on the western bank of the Chitral River facing extension in Birmogh Lusht at an altitude of 10,067 feet and was used by the region’s former rulers during stay in the summer capital.

The fort and mosque are the symbols of Mughal architecture. The fort was put up by the then rulers by replicating the lavish grandeur of Lahore Fort, while the Shahi Masjid resembles Lahore’s Badshahi Masjid. The fort belonged to the Katoor dynasty, which ruled Chitral for 450 years until 1947 when it formally became part of Pakistan as one of the princely states. In 1969, the state was annexed to the country along with Dir and Swat states creating a new civil division of Malakand. Built in 15th century, the fort underwent renovation and restructuring in 1770s during the rule of Shah Afzal II. It’s given the current shape in 1911 by ruler Shujaul Mulk, who ruled the state from 1896 to 1936. Mulk also added the Shahi Masjid to it in 1927 besides putting up the summer palace of Birmogh Lusht, which is smaller but a replica of the fort. Terich Mir, the highest peak of Hindu Kush mountains, can be easily seen from both the forts.

The fort is basically a mud-brick structure with lavish use of deodar wood, which is known for durability and become stronger in dry atmosphere of the area. The fort has three portions, including barracks of the troops called guards in the past, secretariat, and residential area annexed to the garden on the riverside with an exclusive gate. The outer and major part of the fort is in dilapidated condition as repairs have never been done to it since 1970s when the police abandoned it to shift to barracks in police lines. The second portion facing the riverside beneath the tall chinar trees was used as the secretariat of the then rulers. The portion is still adorned with delicate work of architecture with Persian floral designs. The rulers used to hold open kutchery and courts periodically in this portion for which a special sitting place was put up. The fort’s inner and third portion has magnificent structure and design and is used by one of the princes, Fatehul Mulk Ali Nasir, the son of last ruler Saiful Mulk Nasir.

The fort had witnessed the besieging of 400-strong British force on the premises for more than 40 days. The soldiers had shown up to help a prince in the war of succession, which had begun among Amanul Mulk’s sons after his death in 1892. They were relieved by two contingents of British troops one each sent in from Gilgit and Peshawar.

The locals have many stories about the two forts to the interest of tourists.

The Birmogh Lusht fort is situated inside the Chitral Gol National Park from where one can see the snow leopard and Kashmir markhor in its natural habitat apart from other species of wildlife.

The local tour operators complained that the forts were ‘hidden’ and were not open to tourists unlike Altit and Baltit forts of Hunza valley and therefore, they took their customers to Kalash valleys only.

Shahzada Sirajul Mulk, member of the prime minister’s task force on tourism, said Chitral’s forts could be developed as tourist resorts like those standing in other parts of the country and the world. He complained that the successive governments didn’t prioritise tourism promotion in Chitral.

“What a pity that the provincial government ignores Chitral’s tremendous tourism potential and promotes other areas and their old civilisations,” he said adding that in the maiden session of the task force, he had suggested concrete Chitral-specific measures for tourism promotion. The local residents say Chitral has more than 10 forts, which can be used as tourist resort attracting people from within the country and abroad, and hiding forts from tourists means hiding the region’s history and culture from them.

Published in Dawn, January 6th, 2019