The spiritual history of Jalalpur Sharif shrine

Published December 15, 2019
A view of the mosque.
A view of the mosque.

GUJAR KHAN: Built in the early years of the 20th century, the Jalalpur Sharif shrine is located in a large centuries-old town of the same name, some 60 kilometres south of Jhelum district headquarters.

The shrine was a spiritual centre for the faithful before the partition of the subcontinent, and its importance to devotees has continued into modern times.

The pioneering spiritual figure of the region was Pir Syed Ghulam Haider Ali Shah, who held great influence and respect among locals and the Muslim community in the subcontinent.

Shah passed away in 1908, and his descendants include Pir Muzaffar Ali Shah, Pir Syed Mohammad Fazal Shah, former senator and bureaucrat Pir Syed Barkat Ahmad Shah and retired Gen Shafqat Ahmed Shah. The current custodian, or sajjada nasheen, of the shrine is Pir Syed Anees Haider Shah.

The Jalalpur Sharif shrine was built in the Islamic architectural style.

An exterior view of the shrine. — Photos by the writer
An exterior view of the shrine. — Photos by the writer

The single-structure tomb is about as high as a six-storey building, and the building’s arches, ceilings, walls and floors all bear the stamp of Iranian and oriental styles.

The ceilings in particular feature designs using colourful pieces of teak wood, while the doors of the shrine are intricately carved. Although it looks unattended, the old mosque retains its grandeur and the ceiling of its veranda is a masterpiece of woodwork and craftsmanship.

Three Urs are held at the shrine every year – that of Pir Ghulam Haider Ali Shah on Jamadi Al Sani 5 and 6, Pir Mohammad Fazal Shah on Shaban 18 and Pir Barkat Ahmed Shah on Zil Haj 4.

Qazi Mohammad Saeed, a retired teacher and religious scholar who lives in Mohrah Ameen Gujar Khan, told Dawn that this line of spiritual leaders excelled in learning during their time and the shrine had always been a centre of religious education.

Mr Saeed said his father Qazi Abdul Rasheed, a religious scholar and poet, was the khalifa (prominent disciple) of the shrine in the Gujar Khan tehsil.

He said his grandfather and great grandfather were also devotees of Pir Syed Ghulam Haider Ali and Pir Mohammad Fazal, and would travel on foot from their village to the shrine – more than 50 miles across the Salt Range.

Arches add to the grandeur of the building.
Arches add to the grandeur of the building.

The Jalalpur Sharif shrine is spiritually attached to Sial Sharif, Mr Saeed explained, which was the centre of the spread of Islam in the region. He added that a seminarycalled the Jamiah Fazal-al-Aloom is now also being run, where students are taught Dars-i-Nizami and Qirat.

Jamaat Amir Hizbullah was founded by Pir Mohammad Fazal and played a role in connecting Muslims in the region to the Pakistan movement, Abdul Hameed Abbasi, a prominent devotee of the shrine, told Dawn.

He said that Raja Ghazanfar Ali who was associated with Quaid-i-Azam Mohammad Ali Jinnah was also connected to the clan, and the Amir Hizbullah platform contributed immense support to the cause of Pakistan.

Mr Abbasi said Pir Mohammad Fazal used to visit remote areas in Punjab to spread his spiritual message and promote the Pakistan movement.

The painted ceiling of the shrine.
The painted ceiling of the shrine.

He said Fazal’s services were even acknowledged by Allama Mohammad Iqbal, who also visited the shrine.

Pir Barkat Ahmed Shah, who retired as federal secretary and was later a senator, used to canvas for the All-India Muslim League for the Pakistan movement.

Mr Abbasi, a bookseller, added that the late Prof Abdul Ghani from Jhelum also wrote a book, titled Zikar-i-Habib, about the lives and role of the spiritual figures of Jalalpur Sharif.

Published in Dawn, December 15th, 2019

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