Gujranwala is a historically significant town for Sikh heritage and the birthplace of Baba Sai Das, founder of the Gosain community and a contemporary of Baba Nanak Dev, the founder of Sikhism also known as Guru Nanak.

One of the tourist attractions of this ancient town is the grandiose Tombri Temple, popularly known as Toomri Mandir or Nanda Ram Mandir. It stands in the open and verdurous fields adjacent to my hometown of Baddoki Gosaian, two miles southwest from Gakhar Mandi on GT Road and about 16 kilometres from the main city of Gujranwala.

The area had not seen much urbanisation until recently. For the last seven years, however, the area around the temple has slowly been encroached upon by the newly established Defence Housing Authority (DHA) society.

According to a resident of Baddoki, Raja Muhammad Riaz aka Sain Boadh, the temple has been lying abandoned since 1947. It has no caretakers, says Riaz, who is well-versed with the history of the temple.

The Toomri Mandir near Gujranwala holds great religious, cultural and architectural significance. Sadly, despite its potential as a tourist attraction, it lies in a state of neglect

Some locals speculate that Toomri Mandir is as old as 500 years. However, according to various reliable sources of information, its construction was initiated in 1892 on the order of Sai Das. It is commonly called a Hindu temple, but some village elders believe that the mandir was built by the Sikh community. However, historians refute these claims; they associate Toomri Mandir with Hindus alone, yet acknowledge Sai Das as its founder.

In fact, Toomri Temple was a stronghold of the Hindu community in the region. Besides Hindus, it was also regarded as a holy place by Sikhs and Muslims. Sai Das had followers among Muslims who regarded him as their pir [spiritual guide], Sikhs called him their guru and Hindus as their Gosain.

After his demise, his son Baba Ravanand became the successor caretaker of this mandir and played a pivotal role in managing the temple with full support from the prince of the state, Raja Sundar. Hindus from Baddoki and other areas used to come to this temple to learn from Baba Ravanand.

Toomri Mandir is dexterously built on a platform surrounded by a square shaped pond. The total area of the complex, including the pond, is about 5,625 square metres or 1.4 acres. A bridge over six red-tiled arches connects the main edifice of the temple to the carpeted road. The bridge divides the pond into two parts. The pond itself is entirely made of Mughal era bricks. Lush green banyan and peepal (Ficus religiosa) trees cover it from all sides.

To enter the floor of the pond, there are 10 stairs on all four sides. There is also a walled enclosure (locally called ‘piyala’) built in the northwest corner of the pond, most likely used by women. A canal structure to bring water to the pond is also constructed on the bank of the pond from the north side which, according to villagers, is directly linked to a well that was located near Miran Saab (a small village).

Two mighty pillars are also built with space in between, for the inflow of water. This is all reminiscent of the peak era of Mughal constructions. At the back of the mandir, there are palm trees that add more grace to the temple grounds. On the same side, lies a 100-year-old cemetery from the pre-Partition era.

The perpendicular structure of this old temple is indubitably an architectural masterpiece. The skilful engravings on the building exterior leave visitors in awe to this day. The green marble work on the corridor floor inside is equally captivating. The red tiles, patched up delicately in different styles around the temple, add to its beauty.

Riaz dolefully says, “The actual timeline of the mandir’s ruin begins with the demolition of Babri Mosque on December 6, 1992, when, in retaliation, a large mob of Muslims attacked this spectacular mandir and pulled down many of its side buildings and some parts of the main complex too.”

A 90-year-old man named Noor Hassan, who had migrated from Shadipur in India to the historic town Baddoki Gosaian after Partition, tells Eos that there used to be a gold steeple on top of the mandir that was stolen years ago. He also points out that a well on the south side of the mandir that supplied water to the temple is also gone now. Noor says, “For more than 55 years, I have seen the temple pond full of water. It has sadly dried up over the last 20 years, and this has dulled the beauty of this remarkable building.”

The temple used to house a gigantic idol inside that Hindus worshipped. There was also a smaller house of worship called Raam Laas at Baddoki. There was also a Shamshaan Ghaat (crematorium) in the southwest of the village, where Sai Das also received his last rites. Riaz explains that the three varieties of trees found at the ancient temple’s site — banyan, berry and peepal — have distinctive spiritual value in Sikhism, Islam and Hinduism respectively.

Mian Mohammad Khan, who also possesses a great deal of knowledge about the Toomri Temple and has been living here since Independence, says that people used to bathe in the temple pond in order to have their wishes fulfilled. A big fair used to be held at the temple, known as Jhag Da Mela. People would come from afar to fulfill their mannats (spiritual promises). There also used to be a Langar Hall (food hall) opposite the mandir that has completely vanished now. “Hindus and Sikhs in the past used to make annual pilgrimages here,” Raiz says. “However, we do not see any Hindu or Sikh here any longer.”

Riaz expresses his wish that this heritage site be handed over to Hindus for its proper conservation. At present, it is a hub for tourist recreation, with a huge crowd of TikTokers shooting their videos here. People from distant areas come to this temple for photo sessions in front of the awe-inspiring artworks on the walls.

Marketing companies and various brands have also shot commercials here. Some Punjabi films have also chosen this as a location for some scenes. Renowned travel author and novelist Mustansar Hussain Tarar visited this splendid place in 2019 and mentioned this temple in some of his travelogues.

It is deplorable that the temple has fallen prey to sheer negligence and poor maintenance by the concerned authorities. Many times during local bodies’ elections, some key political figures have shown deep concern about its renovation. However, all their promises have always been left unfulfilled after the elections conclude.

Originally, the mandir came under the jurisdiction of the Auqaf Department, which too has dissociated itself from it. Whenever the relevant authorities have asked for its repair and maintenance, the department has simply cited a lack of funds. However, in the last three to four years, the DHA authorities have got this temple building and pond cleaned twice.

The writer is an educationist and freelance columnist based in Gujranwala.

He holds an M.Phil in English Literature and Linguistics from Punjab University.

He has a deep interest in exploring archaeological sites. He can be reached at waseemshabbir78@gmail.com

Published in Dawn, EOS, October 9th, 2022