GILGIT: Sajid Ali Sadpara, a Pakistani climber and the son of legendary mountaineer late Mohammad Ali Sadpara, is set to summit the world’s highest mountain, Mount Everest (8,848.86 metres), in Nepal without the use of supplemental oxygen or Sherpa support.

His ultimate goal is to climb all 14 eight-thousanders without the aid of supplemental oxygen. Currently, he is in Nepal and preparing for the climb.

Earlier, on April 15, 2021, Sajid made history by becoming the first Pakistani to scale the 8,091-metre Annapurna mountain in Nepal, which is the world’s 10th highest peak, without the assistance of high-altitude porters and supplemental oxygen.

Sajid has already summited several high peaks, including K2 (8,611m), Gasherbrum-I (8,080m), and Gasherbrum-II (8,035m) in Pakistan, as well as Manaslu (8,163m) in Nepal, without supplemental oxygen.

He told Dawn that he has com­­pleted the necessary acclimatisation in Nepal and plans to begin his Everest mission on May 20.

No Pakistani mountaineer has ever achieved such a feat, says son of legendary Ali Sadpara

In response to a question, Sajid said that he has been supporting renowned Nepalese mountaineer Nirmal Purja and other Nepali climbers supported him.

“I will be using the ground logistic support of Seven Summit Trek, my primary host,” Sajid said.

Sajid said he has not received sponsorship from the Gilgit-Baltistan government, any other organisation, or donor.

He is undertaking this mission to honour the memory of his late father to raise the Pakistani flag on the world’s highest mountains.

In a statement Sajid noted that 45 years ago on this date in 1978, Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler achieved something that was once considered scientifically impossible — summitting Everest without the use of supplemental oxygen support, which was considered the ultimate challenge in mountaineering.

Less than 200 have summited Everest without oxygen so far, in comparison with over 5,000 with use of oxygen, making it a rare accomplishment.

“In the history of Pakistani mountaineering, no one has ever climbed Everest without oxygen. It was a dream of my father to accomplish this Ultimate Mountaineering Challenge,” Sajid said.

Sadpara had another dream of summiting K2 in winter, which he ultimately achieved, but tragically, he did not return to celebrate the achievement with his loved ones.

He remains in Sajid’s heart and mind, and his lessons guide him in his most challenging times.

“He remains in my heart and mind and his lessons guides me in my most challenging times. My father always taught me to follow one’s dream,” he said.

Published in Dawn, May 9th, 2023