The highest mountain

Published May 16, 2023

THREE Pakistani mountaineers raised the national flag at the highest point in the world over the weekend, with the whole country basking in their achievement. Sajid Sadpara became the first climber from Pakistan to scale Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen and without the assistance of porters — the first alpine-style ascent on the 8,848-metre peak this season. Naila Kiani, a mother of two, became the second female mountaineer from Pakistan, a decade after Samina Baig, to summit Everest. In the process, she also became the first woman from the country to scale five eight-thousanders. Naila is the first foreign climber to reach the top this season; her expedition included compatriot Nadia Azad who also summited successfully. The ascents came as the Everest routes were fixed for this season although Sajid’s solo feat is remarkable — not only did he carry all his equipment without help, he also set the route he took himself. It was a fitting tribute to his late father Ali Sadpara, the legendary climber whose early ascents weren’t recognised as he accomplished them as a porter.

Ali Sadpara died in 2021 while attempting a winter ascent of K2, his death highlighting the plight of Pakistan’s mountaineers. Pakistan has seen a number of climbers emerge in recent years, most notably Sajid, the trailblazing Samina and Naila. There is also Shehroze Kashif, the 20-year-old attempting to become the youngest in the world to climb all 14 eight-thousanders. He has climbed 10 so far. He is among those who have raised Pakistan’s flag atop the world’s highest peaks with very little government support. There is a pressing need for a mountaineering school run by the Alpine Club of Pakistan, the country’s climbing federation. The lack of corporate support for mountaineers is disappointing. But despite these hurdles, public interest in the sport is growing, and a bit of support for the climbers could go a long way in increasing Pakistan’s presence on top of the world.

Published in Dawn, May 16th, 2023

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