Makkah: Vast crowds of robed Muslim faithful performed Tawaf — walking solemn circles around the holy Kaaba — on Sunday to begin the biggest Haj in several years, in the heat of the Saudi summer.

Saudi Arabia is hosting more than two million pilgrims from 160 countries for this year’s Haj, which could break attendance records. Over 1.6 million foreigners have already arrived here.

“This year, we will witness the largest Haj in history,” if things go according to plan, predicted an official with the Saudi ministry of Haj and Umrah. “The numbers will exceed 2.5 million pilgrims,” added the official.

The Haj began early on Sunday with the Tawaf — the circumambulation of the Kaaba.

“I am living the most beautiful days of my life,” said Saeed Abdel Azim, a 65-year-old Egyptian performing the ritual. “The dream has come true,” added the retiree, who had saved for 20 years to pay the thousands of dollars needed to take part.

On Sunday afternoon, pilgrims started moving to Mina, about five kilometres from Makkah, ahead of the Haj’s climax at Mount Arafat, where the Holy Prophet (Peace be upon him) delivered his final sermon.

Mina, the world’s largest tent city, readied to receive the influx of pilgrims, with food supplies brought in and security forces deployed around the area.

More worshippers are expected to head to Mina on Monday, as a vibrant atmosphere takes hold of the tented city with the arrival of pilgrims by foot or via airconditioned buses.

‘Great blessing’

Outside the Grand Mosque in Makkah, thousands prayed on colourful carpets that adorned the pavement, with male pilgrims wearing simple white robes. The area was dotted with ambulances, mobile clinics and fire trucks.

The Haj poses a considerable security challenge and has seen several disasters over the years, including a 2015 stampede that killed up to 2,300 people. There have been no major incidents since, and catastrophe was the last thing on pilgrims’ minds.

“I cannot describe my feelings,” said Indonesian student Yusuf Burhan, 25. “This is a great blessing. I never imagined that I would perform the Haj this year.”

Carrying white umbrellas to shield themselves from the scorching sun, policemen in the mountainous city have conducted foot patrols and set up checkpoints to inspect Haj permits.

Others splashed water on pilgrims as temperatures climbed towards 45 degrees Celsius.

Thousands of paramedics were on standby inside the Grand Mosque. Saudi authorities said more than 32,000 health workers will be on hand to treat cases of heatstroke, dehydration and exhaustion.

The Haj, which costs at least $5,000 a person, makes billions of dollars a year for Saudi Arabia, the world’s biggest oil exporter, which is trying to diversify its economy beyond fossil fuels.

This year’s will be the biggest since 2019, before the Covid pandemic, when about 2.5 million people took part.

Only 10,000 were allowed in 2020, at the height of the global outbreak, rising to nearly 59,000 in 2021.

Last year’s cap of one million has been removed. Saudi businessman Samir Al Zafni said all his hotels in Makkah and Madina are at full capacity until the first week of next month.

“This year there is not a single vacant bed in our group of 67 hotels,” he added.

The Haj also demonstrates social reforms in deeply conservative Saudi Arabia.

This year’s pilgrimage will be the biggest since Saudi Arabia scrapped rules in 2021 that banned women who weren’t accompanied by a male relative.

Waiting for a car to take him out of the vicinity of Makkah’s Grand Mosque, Moroccan merchant Abdullah Al Haqouni, 65, said he was struggling with the temperature.

“I am very tired. The heat is unbearable,” he said, carrying a green umbrella. “God help us.”

Published in Dawn, June 26th, 2023