In the decades since Pakistan’s independence, few things have remained as they were. But that is the nature of change. However, a few things have also stayed the same, including Pakistani Fruit Chaat, a food establishment which traces its origins to around the same time when Pakistan came into existence. Hence the name.

Generations have passed, but time seems to stand still at Pakistani Fruit Chaat, which claims to have no other branches except for the one located at Nursery Market in Karachi. So, beware of fakes and rip-offs.

Over the years, the menu at Pakistani Fruit Chaat has also pretty much stayed the same; I mean there’s only so much you can do with chaat! They have introduced a sugar-free alternative for diabetics and the diet-conscious lot, which is laced with artificial sweetener. But that’s about it.

Time seems to have stood still at the oldest fruit chaat shop in Karachi but that just makes it great value for money

The other two variations, ‘Cream Chaat’ and ‘Masala Chaat’ are still the hot-selling favourites. I prefer to order the suleimani variety, as in without any additions and just plain chopped fruit, the way God intended fruit to be eaten!

Come Ramazan and Pakistani Fruit Chaat is seen booming with business around iftar time. I remember a time when they would add boiled chick peas to the chaat to enhance the flavour, which was not too long ago, but lately that practice seems to have been discarded.

Clockwise: A plate of Cream Chaat; a plate of Masala Chaat; customers at the Pakistani Fruit Chaat establishment at Nursery Market, Karachi| Syed Zubairuddin Shah
Clockwise: A plate of Cream Chaat; a plate of Masala Chaat; customers at the Pakistani Fruit Chaat establishment at Nursery Market, Karachi| Syed Zubairuddin Shah

In these inflation-riddled times, where everything costs an arm and a leg, fruits have become a luxury rather than a necessity. Thank God, then, for Pakistani Fruit Chaat, where you can savour all the seasonal fruits for a minimal price, while also doing away with the somewhat tedious task of peeling and chopping up different kinds of fruit!

The only downside is that they open for business only around noon, after fresh fruit crates arrive everyday from the fruit and vegetable markets early morning and the workers get busy with the tedious task of selecting, washing and cutting up the merchandise.

But once business starts, there’s no holding back and the loyal clientele flock to the shop till late evening to enjoy the fruits of their labour, so to speak.

The writer is a member of staff. X: faisal_quraishi

Published in Dawn, EOS, October 13th, 2024

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