Korea’s ancient capital blends old with new

Published December 2, 2024
Fall foliage at Bulguksa Temple in Gyeongju.—Courtesy The Korea Herald
Fall foliage at Bulguksa Temple in Gyeongju.—Courtesy The Korea Herald

Gyeongju, the ancient capital of the Silla Kingdom (57 BC–935 AD) in today’s North Gyeongsang Province in the southeastern Korean Peninsula, is sometimes called a “roofless museum” for its centuries-old temples, palaces, royal tombs and treasures scattered around different areas of the city.

With great accessibility to Silla’s legacy along with a blend of nature, history and culture, the city enjoys a reputation among Koreans as a must-visit tourist destination.

The ancient city is to host the 2025 APEC Summit next fall, following in the footsteps of Busan, another southeastern city with a proud history and culture, which hosted the country’s last APEC Summit in 2005.

The abundance of hanok, stone pagodas and Buddhist statues and presence of diverse cultural heritage can be felt in every corner of Gyeongju, with iconic attractions such as Cheomseongdae — Asia’s oldest extant astronomical observatory.

The old

Daereungwon, home to 23 ancient tombs of the Silla period, is a popular site for both local and overseas travelers. Located in central Gyeongju, Daereungwon consists of two tombs — Hwangnam Daechong and Cheonmachong — where the National Treasure-designated Queen’s Gold Crown, Belt and “Jangni Cheonmade” (“Painting of Heavenly Horse on a Saddle Flap”) were found.

While the crown and belt are now kept at the National Museum of Korea in Seoul, the horse painting lies within Cheonmachong, making the tomb tour all the more exciting. The tomb complex is surrounded by swaying pine trees, offering visitors the chance to immerse themselves in its tranquil nature.

The stone wall path running along the wall of Daereungwon Park is also a top cherry blossom site, with cherry blossom trees on either side of the road creating a stunning tunnel, painting the city pink and white in spring.

A two- to three-minute walk from Daereungwon brings visitors to Cheomseongdae, Asia’s oldest surviving astronomical observatory, and Gyerim Forest or the picturesque bridge Woljeonggyo.

Gyerim Forest is a thick forest of zelkova and willow trees, which have been standing here since the Silla Kingdom. The serene vibe from Daereungwon to Woljeonggyo adds a magical ambiance to Gyeongju.

But, the city shines brighter at night. The colorful lights illuminating Cheomseongdae and Woljeon­ggyo with its stunning reflection in the water leave many travelers speechless. The nightscape of this roofed bridge can be enjoyed from inside the bridge, but many prefer to head to the stepstone bridge to be awed by the sight.

The nearby benches are great places to wrap up the day in this historical city, with the sound of the gently flowing river under the shimmering bridge and moonlight.

Those who wish to experience the cradle of Korea’s Buddhist culture should head over to eastern Gyeongju, where you can get a glimpse of Silla’s aesthetics and religious art at the Seokguram Grotto — one of South Korea’s greatest tangible treasures — and temple Bulguksa. Both are Unesco World Heritage Sites.

Oksan Seowon, one of nine seowon inscribed on the Unesco World Heritage list in 2019, is located at the northernmost tip of the city and worth a visit.

Seowon are Confucian academies of the Joseon era (1392-1910) considered to be like an educational facility akin to a library, publishing house and venue for discussing social and political matters.

The new

Gyeongju not only draws the attention of history buffs and families trying to make memories and time travel to the past, but also vacationers following the latest travel trends.

Hwangridangil, or Hwangridan Street, has become a hot spot for visitors over the past several years, beckoning people with a “newtro” vibe. Newtro is a combination of “new” and “retro,” meaning a new interpretation of vintage elements.

Old and worn-down buildings from the 1960s and 1970s are now home to trendy shops, popular dessert cafes, stationery stores and self-photo studios for youngsters and the young at heart.

This is a street where visitors can explore the city dressed in hanbok — traditional Korean attire — and capture the moment with friends.

Published in Dawn, December 2nd, 2024

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