The previous columns covered the growing process of the beetroot plant, from planting seeds to germination and all the way to the maturity stage. The columns also discussed the relevant fertilisers required at different stages, the health benefits and nutritional content of the beet, as well as other aspects of this underground root vegetable. This week’s column outlines how and when to harvest the beetroot, and what to do with the rest of the plant. Before that, however, let’s quickly go through the pests and diseases affecting this plant.

At the seedling stage, the beets require protection from birds that might peck on the tender and nutrient-rich seedlings. At the other end of the plant life cycle, the mature beets are highly susceptible and vulnerable to mice and rodents, which would take every opportunity to feast upon these underground bounties. There are several ways to keep these mice and rodents at bay — in the house or anywhere else — such as traditional snap traps or rodent repellents.

There are a few other pests that can attack the leaves of beetroot plants. These include, but are not limited to, aphids, mealy bugs, leafhoppers and leaf miners. It is better to always spray one’s plant with an organic home-made pesticide after every two weeks. For that, one can simply use a mixture of one spoon of neem oil in one litre of water. The regular spraying of this mixture will deflect any possible pest attacks. However, if the plants are already under attack, then a drop or two of any liquid soap can be added to the above-mentioned solution and sprayed regularly after every few days, till the pests are completely removed.

One common indicator that the beetroot is ready for harvest is when the plant starts popping out of the soil surface

Beet curly top virus and cercospora leaf spot are two of the most common diseases that affect beets. The first one is a viral disease spread by leafhoppers. Simply getting rid of leafhoppers is likely to diminish the chances of this viral disease. Meanwhile, cercospora is a fungal invasion of the young leaves of the beetroot plants, in which small grey spots with red margins form on the leaves. Any commercially available fungicide can be used to counter it.

After almost two to three months of germination, the beetroot plants are mature enough to start growing their produce. The application of nitrogen-rich fertiliser should be reduced to a minimum at this stage. Otherwise, the plant will continue to grow leaves instead of roots. Instead, potassium-rich fertilisers should be introduced, which would help increase the quality of the produce. For organic options of potassium-rich fertilisers, one can use crushed, powdered dried banana peels.

During the last stage of the plant life cycle, a couple of weeks or so before the harvest, a small quantity of phosphorus should also be added to the plant meal. This addition significantly improves the size and taste of the harvest.

The produce of beetroot plants is generally ready for harvest within eight to 14 weeks of germination. The duration is dependent upon several factors, such as the type of beet planted, the seed quality and the zone where the seeds are sown.

The most common indication for harvesting, as with any other root plant, is that the head of the produce or the first few centimetres of the top of the beet starts to pop out of the soil surface. This means it is time to pull out the beet and finish the harvest stage.

Sometimes, a yellow discolouration of the leaves also signals the end of the plant life cycle, suggesting that it’s time for harvest. If the beetroots are left behind in the ground subsequent to the harvest stage, then they are likely to lose their taste.

The harvest process is as primitive as it can be. Grab the plant from the stem and pull out the produce. The stem and leaves of the beetroot are also rich in minerals and vitamins. Apart from the beetroot harvest, the edible leaves of this plant and the crunchy, colourful stems are also widely used as an ingredient in different salads, side dishes and even the main course. Hence, there is no need to throw them away or make it part of your compost bin.

Please send your queries and emails to doctree101@hotmail.com. The writer is a physician and a host for the YouTube channel ‘DocTree Gardening’ promoting organic kitchen gardening

Published in Dawn, EOS, December 22nd, 2024