year has passed since Icon reported on the 21st edition of Bridal Couture Week (BCW) [Back To Square One by Maliha Rehman, Dec 24] and, while it may seem that not much has changed since then in the

realm of bridal fashions, a paradigm shift of sorts has, in fact, occurred where bridal-wear ramp presentations are concerned.

With the fashion council-led shows winding up, BCW is the only fashion week left for designers to showcase their collections.

Maliha Rehman began by stating in her post-event report that “It might matter where you showcase your collection — but what will always matter more is what you show.” Words to live by indeed.

As we witnessed collections by a slew of designers at the Trade Development Authority of Pakistan (TDAP) Fashion Week and then at the Alfa Mall Show at the Mohatta Palace in November, these words ring true now more than ever.

The ongoing Bridal Couture Week in Lahore continues to bring bridal couturiers and brands under one roof in a dazzling display of bridal finery and exquisiteness every year, despite fashion purists downplaying its importance in the business of fashion and its related global economy

Bridal-wear has obviously been at the centre of attention at BCW and the main attraction, while everything else related to art and culture at the show simply revolves around it. The ‘boring’ bridal behemoth that is accused by fashion purists as nothing more than a “TV show” stands unjustly accused.

Ask any senior designer and (s)he will tell you that bridal-wear is where the ‘real’ money is at, as clients dig deeper into their pockets as wedding season approaches. Creative self-expression may be all be very good while dealing in prêt but it hardly pays the bills, and that’s where bridals step in to the rescue, with their impressive profit margins and steep price tags. Pret and bridals are two sides of the same (fashion) coin.

Quite a few fashion designers dabble in bridals in order to give a free rein to their creative self-expression and experimentation with prêt and bring in the much-needed moolah. So why does a show such as BCW that caters to bridal-wear get labelled as a mere “TV show”?

Perhaps the answer lies in what Pakistani media mogul and founder president of the Hum Network, Sultana Siddiqui, has to say. Siddiqui is the visionary who launched BCW back in 2010, and then the prêt show Hum Showcase with senior couturier Rizwan Beyg, which became a post-pandemic casualty due to budget constraints.

“BCW is not a fashion council kind of event. It was the responsibility of the [now-defunct] fashion councils to promote the business of fashion. My response to critics is that I run an entertainment channel and I want to reach out to people on a fashion as well as on an entertainment, art and cultural level. I’m quite satisfied with our progression so far, but there’s always room for improvement and all we can do is try our best,” she says.

“The televised version of BCW has an outreach to over 33 countries, and is watched avidly by fans from all over the world,” she continues. “We provide equal opportunities to both established and emerging designers. There’s a huge buyers’ market out there and we provide opportunities to the extremely talented Pakistani bridal-wear designers to step up and tap into the highly competitive global market that used to be dominated by Indian bridal-wear designers, and enable them to cater to all kinds of clients’ demands for bridals.”

BCW is not a fashion council kind of event. It was the responsibility of the [now-defunct] fashion councils to promote the business of fashion,” says Sultana Siddiqui

Over the years, BCW has had its highs and lows while garnering a loyal line-up of designers who showcase every year. In its 22nd edition, titled ‘Neo Bridal Couture Week (Dec 20-22)’, being held in Lahore, we see a slew of familiar names returning to the fray among the 27 bridal-wear and groom-wear designers and brands showcasing their best works.

The platform is one which often sees collections being curated especially for the BCW ramp show. The six-figure participation fee might be a bit intimidating and pose a temporary financial setback, but repeated televising does lead to mileage generated by the show, and an increase in sales for the participating designers.

BCW regular Hasan Shehryar Yasin (HSY) aka Sheroo will showcase on the third and last day (today). “My collection is dedicated to the event of nikaah. Usually we’ve always been a design house that’s designed clothes for mehndis, shaadis and valimas. With a new generation now coming up, a very large consumer population is observing and interested in making the event of nikaah as something very solemn and important, and as a separate occasion. We’re designing for that.

“We’ve also kept in mind that the newer generation is also struggling with a very difficult economy right now, so we’ve priced the clothes and designed them in such a way that they are incredibly competitive in price. All of the clothes that we will be showing are under 250,000 rupees, as in the entire garment.

“Those are usually not our prices at HSY,” he explains. “We want to be able to cater to a new generation and understand that one’s fashion needs to be unique, individual and beautiful, but also competitively priced.

“These pieces are all under the ‘HSY Trousseau’ banner, which is our affordable luxury collection. The aim is to be able to show as many variations as possible for people to have choices to wear at their nikaah, or [as guests at] nikaah ceremonies, for men and women. That is the overall theme — affordable, beautiful clothes that people can wear on one of the most important days of their lives, when they are forming a union between another person, and between their families.”

Another BCW heavyweight is Fahad Hussayn who will be closing the show today. He says, “This year we’re only doing a show for our print museum. The show itself is titled ‘Ashk-o-Atar’. I’ve written an on-stage adaptation of Heer Ranjha in an alternate fantasy universe. The collection is derived from Persian folklore and is divided into three sections.

“Section one is our Western wedding range, titled ‘Alta Moda’ — it’s Western silhouettes with our signature embroideries and hand embellishments in earthy and mouse tones for both men and women.

“The second segment contains our signature bridal-wear in traditional colour tones, such as mango yellow, red, wine, pink and ivory, and comes with coordinated menswear. For the ending of the show, we will be showcasing our unstitched wedding series that’s 10 looks that are going for pre-booking the same day.”

Mehdi’s collection at BCW is a blend of vintage charm and luxe sophistication. “Our brand’s signature style is characterised by intricate, detailed embellishments that adorn exquisite fabrics, resulting in timeless, one-of-a-kind pieces,” says Mehdi. “The aesthetic is deeply rooted in royal colours, precision-crafted embellishments, and an appreciation for nature’s beauty.

“My collection is inspired by the whimsical world of The Secret Garden and the palette transitions from soft pastels to rich solids to create a captivating visual narrative. With a focus on crafting silhouettes that exude elegance, we have combined rich, flowy fabrics to create a truly regal experience.”

Adding further value to the bridal bonanza are elements that add art and culture to the mix, and included in the line-up are singers Ali Zafar and Danny Zee with T.I., the hip-hop legend whose influence has shaped the genre for decades. They have teamed up for a groundbreaking collaboration and it has snowballed into what could potentially be the biggest musical collaboration of the year.

Last year at BCW, the platform was used by Karachi-based designer Emraan Rajput to advocate ‘Peace for Palestine’ with showstopper Ahsan Khan holding a placard while walking for the designer. Rajput is the opening act of day three of BCW this year, but it’s not clear if he will be looking to make a similar political statement this time round.

As the boundaries become increasingly blurred between fashion, art and culture, with all three melding to usher in a new era, Pakistan is poised to be the ultimate benefactor of such experimentation. That the BCW helps pitch individual designers and their efforts into the international arena while garnering praise and accolades for the country, is just icing on the cake.

The writer is a member of staff.

He can be reached at quraishi.faisal@gmail.com

Published in Dawn, December 22nd, 2024