Photo by Fahim Siddiqi / White Star

While ‘food streets’ are now considered essential parts of the urban landscape of Pakistani cities, especially Karachi and Lahore, these areas existed long before the term became hip. And in Karachi, nothing quite conjures up visions of various delectable delicacies served on one strip of road as does the mention of the metropolis’ most famous food street: Burnes Road.

This road, named after a long-forgotten gora, the identity of whom is disputed by history buffs, is considered Karachi’s centre of all things culinary. However, the flavours served here are definitely not haute cuisine and very much proletarian. Though other food streets have popped up across the metropolis, including the strip along Boating Basin, as well as a snazzy new development in the shade of the Natives Jetty Bridge, they have not managed to replace Burnes Road as Karachi’s premier culinary destination.

Parts of it can be very grimy and during times of political violence —unfortunately, a common feature of life in Karachi — Burnes Road can be hit pretty hard. Yet it manages to bounce back and attracts gastronomes of all ages and income brackets with its mouth-watering charms.

Personally, I feel that if you are looking for a full-fledged meal, Burnes Road is not the right place; you won’t get everything at one place and mostly have to order salad and dessert from other outlets. But if you’re in the mood for a quick hot lunch or you are on a snacking spree, look no further. Some establishments have been refurbished and offer air-conditioned environs to patrons; others welcome you with flies-a-buzzing and no defence from the dust and noise of the street. However, it is the variety of the fare available at Burnes Road that is the reason for its fame.

One can scoop up hot platefuls of haleem doused in fresh lemon juice and garnished with fried onions and green chillies with naan, or one can attack a plateful of kebabs of various varieties with bread of choice. A personal guilty pleasure is kebab fry accompanied by sheermal. But make sure you know a good heart surgeon lest you get addicted to this.

If you’re in the mood for snacks, there are samosas and pakoras in abundance, with one joint frying their semi-circular samosas in desi ghee. If dahi baraas tickle your fancy, there’s plenty available. Even the humble bun kebab tastes better on Burnes Road. One joint sells something by the name of Arabi paratha. Though it might be Arabic in origin, one feels it does not qualify as a paratha. What it is, is the local variant of the Arabic ‘mutabbaq’, a savoury folded pancake filled with mincemeat and fried egg. Eaten with ketchup or perhaps tangy chutney, the experience can be out of this world.

For those with a sweet tooth, Burnes Road does not disappoint. There are a number of joints that sell perhaps the smoothest kheer in all of Karachi, while the rabri served by the same shops is also great, though a bit heavy. Other than that, from the sweets of the former East Pakistan to regular ice creams and faloodas, it can all be had here. One personal favourite, especially during the hot Karachi summer, is the doodh ki bottle served up by a popular lassi-walla. The ice cold bottle of sweetened milk containing crunchy almonds (or is it peanuts) is perhaps one of the best ways to beat the heat and satisfy your urge for something sweet.

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