Paan is something of a South and South-East Asian tradition. However, in modern times it has drawn a lot of flak from enlightened segments of society for its supposed carcinogenic properties and, resultantly, the image the word conjures up is that of a semi-literate person chomping on one paan after another, oblivious of its ill effects on health.
But things were not always like this. Once upon a time paan used be associated with Indian Muslim aristocracy and no self-respecting lady of the house would be seen without a paan-daan filled to the brim with all the necessary ingredients for the maximum chewing experience.
Though things have changed and the feisty little paan-daan might soon exist only in museums, chewing paan - for better or for worse - remains an essential part of Karachi's culinary culture. Let's start with why paan has developed such a negative reputation.
The chewing of paan, or betel leaf, as mentioned above is said to be associated with various forms of cancer, not so much because of the leaf itself but because of the chaliya (areca nut) that is one of the main ingredients of paan. The breath freshener's image has taken a further battering because of some positively diabolical products associated with paan, such as the evil gutka, mainpuri and certain paan masalas.
Another factor working against the paan is that many chewers tend to spit the peek (liquid formed in the mouth after vigorous paan-chewing) on any available surface, including footpaths, walls, corners, etc. This results in many parts of the metropolis resembling ugly versions of Jackson Pollock's paintings.
The more civilised paan-chewers of yore used to keep ugal-daans, or spittoons, at home to get rid of the unsightly by-product and not damage the environment in the process. When chewing away from home they took the utmost care not to make a sickening spectacle when getting rid of peek. Nowadays it is not uncommon to get targeted - especially if you drive a motorbike in Karachi - by an errant paan-chewer usually riding a bus, who has decided to splatter you with the remnants of his paan.
However, if the inherent evil of things like gutka and the complete lack of civic sense in Karachi's population are put aside, chewing paan can be a truly pleasurable experience.
As mentioned above, paan was once associated with the Indian Muslim elite. But this is not to say other communities of the subcontinent and beyond do not hold paan in high regard. The pungent leaf is used in Hindu religious ceremonies while it is a part of the culture of countries as different as Myanmar, Bangladesh and Vietnam.
In Karachi, there are countless paan-wallahs and localities from across the socio-economic spectrum that host dozens of cabins or holes-in-the-wall each manned by dudes with usually bad teeth (courtesy chewing too much paan) and red fingers (having daubed the fingers in kattha or catechu too many times) who can whip up finely-made paans in a matter of seconds.
These shops can range from the most basic structures to elaborate, well-lit outlets sponsored by mobile companies or cigarette brands. Some paan-wallahs have developed a cult following as fans come from far and away for a bit of the sweet leaf. Paan shops near PIDC and a certain paan-wallah in North Nazimabad's Golden Gate area are known to have a loyal clientele. Many five-star hotels and buffet restaurants have also set up kiosks for serving their patrons paan after meals.
There are various types of paan available in the market such as the meetha (sweet), saunf khusbu (flavoured with fennel seeds), sadaa khusbu, mix patti as well as the infamous Zahoor Raja Jani. The last two are flavoured with tobacco and my strong advice is to avoid them at all costs, as they can have quite devastating effects on the novice paan -chewer.
A friend tells me that a mischievous relative of his slipped him a tobacco-filled paan one Eid. Soon enough his head was spinning around and in a few minutes he was eight miles high. After laying down for a bit and drinking several glasses of water he was fit enough to stand on his feet again. Needless to say he never visited that relative again.
In all honesty there is nothing quite like a home-made paan prepared from a hygienic paan-daan. Betel leaves can be bought by the chhatank from vendors and after a thorough wash one can add ingredients to the paan according to personal taste. The most basic ingredients are kattha and choona, or lime paste. Be careful not to daub too much of the latter on your paan else you'll end up cutting your mouth. From there one can add chopped areca nut (I personally prefer finely chopped chaliya as opposed to the boulder-sized pieces some paan-wallahs use), fennel seeds, cardamom or diced coconut.
It is true that too much paan-chewing may well be injurious to health while it is a pastime that should be limited to adults. But if the leaf is had in moderate amounts with quality ingredients, I personally see no harm in it. I know octogenarians in the pink of health who have been enjoying paan for the last several decades without contracting any nasty mouth or throat diseases. Now chew on that!
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