Day 13: The amazing world of Dunyapur
Day 13: The amazing world of DunyapurLocations: Khanewal, Jahanian, Qutabpur, Dunyapur, Lodhran, Jalalpur Pirwala
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When I arrived at this place, near the village Qutabpur, I thought this was 'the front office' of the dera where I would be staying but soon I discovered that this was it! It was a large, open compound with good shady trees and charpoys and a few kacha rooms at the back. But those were only for things as the men preferred to stay out in the open. I have no problem sleeping in the open, under the sky but this was a roadside.The good thing about village roads, that I preferred over the highways for this voyage, is that there is very little traffic on them. But when I took the Khanewal–Lodhran road, I realised it was favoured by all the truckers plying between Peshawar and Karachi too. Simply because it is shorter than the N5 passing through Multan and Shujaabad.
The dera was on this road – and it was a nightmare. You may fall asleep if you have to count the countless sheep jumping over the fence but believe me you remain awake the whole night if you have to count the trucks passing by. I am not complaining though as that was the way it was supposed to be. But I could not write that evening as there was no electricity here as well. I decided to skip a day and write one account for the next two days.
Politics was being discussed at this dera but only during short breaks – this was in complete contrast to what is happening in 'the rest of the world'. There is an interest in elections here but they are too busy. Instead, the two most crucial and labour intensive exercises are going on simultaneously – wheat harvesting and cotton sowing.There have been intermittent rains in April this year and wheat can't be harvested and threshed unless it is crisp dry. The harvest has started quite late this time and has not yet been completed. It's a long process that starts with cutting the dry plants and ends with transporting the sacks of grain to the buyer. In this part of the country, cotton is sown immediately after the wheat has vacated the land. The delay in wheat harvest is delaying cotton sowing which is giving the farmers anxiety. I witnessed it at this dera where managers sped passed here and there on their motorbikes while the zamindar shouted at others on cell phones. A tractor on the other side of the road worked in the dark under its headlights to ready the land for watering early next morning.
These are the most labour intensive exercises, and most of the labour is migrant. So around polling day this time, people in villages will be busy and/or away from their homes. This might have an impact on voter participation. Never before in the country's history have elections been held during this month.
'The election industry' in small towns is in crisis and it is double edged. The industry includes all those who help organise public events – from banner makers to caterers and cooks. On the one hand, they have to compete with large businesses of big cities who offer the candidates more competitive bulk rates and on the other hand, the Election Commission's strict campaign code has made the contestants extra cautious about spending on even the most benign of activities.
I talked to traditional drummers, the fauji bands and the naii at many places but none were ready to come on record. All of them were unanimous in complaining about low volumes and 'the tension' that the threat of being reported gives them. Naii, the barbers, are the cooks and the event managers in rural society. They are still waiting for polling day bookings from various candidates.
