The day I am to return to Pakistan, the Indian Prime Minister Manmohan Singh and the head of the Agha Khan community, Price Karim Agha Khan are commemorating the completion of the project for the restoration of the Mughal Emperor Humayun’s Tomb. I have visited the tomb a week ago and can attest to the absolutely impeccable renovation work. The buildings have been restored to their old glory, the many lawns and garden are maintained to perfection and the premises are clean and tidy.
The notion of India Shining notwithstanding, there is substantial and apparent poverty in Delhi that is further highlighted by the extreme disparity. India’s days of Gandhian austerity are mostly gone. Lean, emaciated men driving cycle rickshaws jostle for space with late model BMWs, Mercedes and Audis, large slums start where super posh shopping malls end, and there are families living on the sidewalks and road islands even in the posh southern part of the city.
But while all shades of rich and poor coexist, there is a palpable sense that things are changing for the better. And there, to me, lies the main difference between Karachi and Delhi. In Karachi, the state has completely abandoned the people while in Delhi, the state does deliver to some extent thus improving the lives of the denizens and giving them some hope for the future.
Karachi, the city of lights is becoming a city of darkness and Delhi the city of djinns has many a demons to deal with, but it seems to be doing so with some success.