Three things come to mind with the advent of Eid-ul-Azha: family, food and clothing. The classic Eid jora not only has cultural relevance but for many Pakistanis, is almost something of a religious necessity. Year after year we spend (a combined) millions of rupees on new outfits every Eid.

Around Rs700 billion worth of consumption was recorded during Eid-ul-Fitr earlier this year, out of which the clothing industry was one of the top gainers, constituting 40 per cent of this figure (source: DawnNews). Whether they set up shop in village bazaars or gigantic urban shopping malls, the week before Eid is the busiest time of the year for most retailers.

Dolmen Mall in Clifton, Karachi, recorded a footfall of 50,000 to 60,000 people on a single day the week before Eid, a 100pc jump compared to the 20,000 to 22,000 people visiting the mall on any given weekday. Similar figures are reported from major malls in Lahore and Islamabad. It is safe to assume that spending during the upcoming Eid-ul-Azha will also follow a similar trend.

While the numbers keep swelling during the festive season, it is interesting to note that market research now shows the average clothes’ consumer to be a lot more discerning than s/he used to be around Eid time. In the past decade or so, four distinct trends seem to emerge when it comes to looking for the perfect Eid jora.

Eid and beyond

The most prevalent trend indicates that people are no longer buying clothes just for Eid. Some 10 years ago, the charm of going shopping for an outfit around this time lay in the fact that the jora was essentially for one special event. The chance that it might work just as well for other events was considered an added bonus, but not what drove the purchase. The occasion called for extravagance, and this sentiment existed across demographics.

From lower-middle income families who made a beeline for bazaars near their homes or hit their city’s main streets, to those who had more money to spend and sought out luxury prêt designers, it was the time of year when many bought new clothes (in certain cases it was also the only new outfit they would buy that year). Some saved up for months whereas others simply used up a large chunk of their salaries, but everyone was out to buy something new.

But things have taken a turn in recent years. For the average woman, utility and durability has become very important.

Veteran designer Maheen Khan caters to a number of different demographics with the apparels she designs. As head designer for her self-titled high-end couture label — as well as for Gulabo, a mid-range high street brand, and Nishaat, a lawn manufacturing company that also offers ready-to-wear — Khan has noticed one very important trend, “When a woman buys a jora today, 90pc of the time she is going to look at it as an investment. Before she buys it she is going to wonder how many times she will be able to wear it.”

This sentiment resonates in the ‘elite’ circles as well, despite their having a lot more disposable income to spend during Eid.

“Clients are looking for an Eid jora which has wearabilty over an extended period of time,” says high-end designer Shamaeel Ansari while speaking to Images on Sunday. “Customers want to buy separate coordinates that can be fused with different clothes, whether Western or Eastern. Even the lowers that I make for my ensemble are such that people can use them with a different kameez or even a T-shirt or a blouse. Every article of clothing has its own identity, so it can work separately and has multi-usage,” she adds.

Minimal: the way to go

Eid outfits have also become minimal and relaxed. Overcrowded embroidery and silky materials (once favourites for Eid) have taken a step back in the past couple of years with cotton now the popular fabric of choice.

According to a slew of street-side kurta stalls on Karachi’s main Tariq Road, malai lawn is the top choice when it comes to choosing a fabric. Rahat, a shopkeeper who has been running a large kurta stall next to a popular nihari restaurant for around five years now, whips out a simple, embroidery and print-free maroon lawn kurta with a black patti on its hem and sleeves for Rs650. This was his best-selling item during Eid-ul-Fitr, and the only embellishments on it are the three shiny silver buttons down the front.

“Women are becoming more practical when they decide what to buy for Eid,” he explains. “They want a material that will work year round and a design simple enough to be worn to outings or even to the work place.” Plus, looking casual and relaxed is a statement on its own, especially with the upper-middle class.

Hira Tareen, a model and DJ in her late 20s, says the reason this is so is because the Western “hipster” trend is increasingly resonating with local audiences as we get more exposure to international trends. “When I say hipster, I mean the whole culture of casual cool and effortless styling. It is more of a lifestyle and state of mind, the distinct fashion choice of hipsters revolves around combining the old with the new to make a personal statement. For example, if you buy a basic malai lawn tunic with minimal embellishments, there’s more opportunity to really stylise that piece. And individuality is a big priority for the new generation.”

High street over high-end

The expansion of the Pakistani ‘high street’ has changed the game when it comes to shopping during the holiday festive season. The Pakistani equivalent of England’s high street consists of destination stores offering affordable ready-to-wear fashion inspired by some of the latest trends on the runway. This Eid it is giving high-end designers a run for their money as these outfits are made with low quality fabric and produced at a mass scale.

High-end designers have been catering to the Pakistani elite for years but now the burgeoning middle class can afford to buy similar trends.

To date, Khaadi has 22 stores all over Pakistan — from an expansive space in Dolmen Mall, Clifton, to outlets in Mirpur and Sialkot with further expansion underway. Their simple line ranges from Rs2,500 to Rs6,000. This Eid, Khaadi experienced a hike in revenues during Eid compared to last year, a number which they are unwilling to disclose.

A less trendy but equally popular store is Bonanaza, another high street retailer that has been a local favourite during Eid for years. It currently has more than 52 outlets all over the country, with five to six more in the pipeline. Recently, Bonanza introduced collaborations with high-end designers to produce a slightly more expensive line, which takes their price range from Rs2,500 up to Rs15,000. According to the head of marketing, Asif Bilwani, their Eid revenue hiked up between 30-40pc this year as compared to last year. Likewise, Sheep, a new high street brand, founded just three years ago has already opened four outlets, three in Karachi and one in Lahore.

The mall and the web

If high street trends have drastically changed the way Eid shoppers spend their money, then malls share the blame as well. Trendy malls across the country create a space where high-end designer boutiques and categories of high street wear exist side by side. Shoppers have easy access to both which makes comparing a lot easier. A trend marked at a fancy designer boutique can be recreated by a high street label for less than one-fourth the price. Needless to say, the weak production quality of mass retail doesn’t even come close to the finesse of high-end, limited edition pieces at boutiques.

E-commerce portals like Daraz and The Labels e-store also get busier during Eid season. “E-commerce is a reflection of the offline market and our sales similarly peak during Eid time. This happens during shaadi season as well but not as much as it does during Eid,” explains Farees Shah, Co-CEO of Daraz.pk.

“During Eid this August we saw a hike of around 50pc in sales compared to the previous months. The Labels e-store which sells Pakistani casual, semi-formal and formal designer gets multiple orders for Eid garments from overseas. Daraz, which markets itself aggressively online and offers around 160 apparel brands also delivers to those areas and cities where access to a large variety of retail stores is limited. Customers in the four big cities — Karachi, Lahore, Islamabad and Pindi — constitute only 50pc of our sales. The rest is from smaller cities and even villages all over Pakistan. This includes places like Tando Adam, Gilgit, Jhang and many others. People who like a particular trend that they’ve seen someone wear on TV will come to Daraz and order it to their house. Our delivery services are free so it’s very convenient,” he adds.

Around 80 of these brands are for men and 80 for women, ranging from high-end labels like Deepak Perwani, Jafferjees and Swatch, to Ego, Gulabo and Bonanza. Multi-brand e-commerce sites like these then become virtual malls, where customers can peruse through styles they like, in a large range of prices.

Whether it be high-end or high street, the bottom line is having fun during the Eid holidays with those you love. And what better way to do it than to dress up for the occasion.