BHIT SHAH: For most Karachi-based city slickers, a visit to Shah Abdul Latif Bhitai’s dargah in Bhit Shah, Matiari district, especially during the urs, serves as a crash course in how the Sufi saint holds such a central place in Sindh’s spiritual and cultural life and what this translates to socially.

While verses from Shah’s celebrated Risalo have become potent symbols of Sindhi literary expression, as a visit on Wednesday, the first day of Shah Latif’s three-day urs (this being the 270th urs), showed, the mystic poet’s pull over the people of Sindh is such that they come in droves despite their differences to pay their respects. This is in contrast to the galloping extremism that is infecting large parts of the rest of Pakistan. Perhaps in Shah’s verses there are lessons in tolerance and harmony for the rest of the country.

The road to Bhit Shah itself presents soothing visions, as the traveller drives past verdant fields speckled with the vivacious yellow of sarson (mustard seed) coupled with banana trees and sugar cane. Moving closer to the town, the road leading to the dargah was barricaded and vehicles were not allowed, unless one was lucky enough to carry an official pass or a press card. Or else one had to march down the road on foot. This was perhaps the first sign that the threat of terrorism had placed certain necessary hurdles in the path of the traveller.

However, it appeared that the threat of terrorist attacks had not deterred Shah’s devotees, as they marched to the dargah in sizable numbers. On the way the culture department had set up stalls for various activities, including animal races and stalls for merchandise. The bazaar leading to Shah Latif’s mausoleum had also been decorated as hawkers tempted the devotees with attractive sales pitches. But buying and selling could wait till later; after all, Shah was calling.

As soon as one entered the dargah, one was overwhelmed by the mass of humanity sprawled out across the courtyard in front of the tomb chamber. As one of the shrine’s attendants told this writer, some would pay their respects and leave; others would stay at the dargah for all three days.

Men and women, young and old, along with children, sat in the courtyard. Some had brought their goats and chickens with them. Some cooked using makeshift stoves, others scrambled to grab hold of langar (free food distributed at the shrine). These were simple people, united in their devotion to Shah Latif.

As one stepped inside Shah’s tomb chamber, with the grave enclosed in an intricate wooden frame, the emotions were overwhelming. There were constant echoes of Nara-i-Hayderi and Jeay Latif while in quieter moments people raised their hands to offer fateha while others repeated durood while thumbing prayer beads. Some recited Surah Yaseen, while others performed matam.

Sufism is often bandied about as the ‘antidote’ to extremism. One doesn’t know how far that is true, yet at Shah Latif’s shrine one thing was clear. If there was one overriding feeling in the whole complex it was of tolerance and harmony. Confessional differences existed, but were also blurred just a little bit.

Devotees clad entirely in black paid their respects at the Alam and replica of Imam Hussain’s mausoleum at Karbala located at the entrance of Shah Latif’s shrine before entering the tomb chamber. Other devotees in green turbans quietly mouthed zikr while in the mosque located next to Shah’s resting place some prayed with their hands folded, while others did so with their hands by their sides.

Just outside the tomb musicians and singers held devotees in thrall by reciting Shah Latif’s kalaam. But the devotion of the masses was often punctured by visits from ‘important’ persons, with armed policemen in tow. The presence of weapons in Shah’s durbar was most incongruous. Of course the political parties made a point to make their presence felt, trying to win the hearts, minds and votes of Shah’s devotees. Flags and banners of Sindhi nationalist parties as well as mainstream parties were all over Bhit Shah.

One, however, did feel that security should have been much tighter, considering the threat to Sufi shrines and other religious places. Devotees were not frisked and it appeared the metal detectors placed at the shrine entrance were not turned on.

Much has been said and written about the threat Sindh faces from extremism. While some of this may be valid, after visiting Bhit Shah, one can confidently say that most of Sindh’s people will not fall prey to the poison of bigotry. After all, they have Shah.