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Today's Paper | December 23, 2024

Updated 05 Nov, 2014 06:32pm

Review: Chatterbox Cafe's rebirth has been timely and welcome

In a city that thrives on reinvention while remaining dedicated to its classics, giving an old favourite a makeover is a tricky undertaking.

Pie in the Sky bakeries have been a fixture of Karachi for over a decade, and the original Chatterbox at Zamzama was a natural extension. The snug hidey hole of a café was understandably lost in its younger, more fashionable competition and its rebirth has been both timely and welcome.

The greatest strength of the new Chatterbox Café is that it has managed to retain the cosy warmth of the old while effectively creating a new identity. Nostalgia plays a part, but Chatterbox does not rely on its good name to ensure success, rather uses its roots as the launching pad for something much more impressive.

A homey, comforting, and rustic vibe greets you as you enter Chatterbox Café, and the aroma of freshly baked desserts completes the unique experience.

The out of the way location at Bukhari Commercial has been no deterrent and the restaurant seems to be bustling with customers around the clock within a month of opening.

Exposed brick walls combined with simple yet bold graphics provide visual cues about the cafe's eclectic leaning. A collection of hand-picked antiques add warmth to the open interiors.

Attention to detail can be seen in everything from the furniture and lights (flown in from Dubai) to the mason jars used as glasses. Even the music seems well matched as opposed to the random mix usually heard at restaurants.

Chatterbox Café may have one of the most exciting menus I've seen in years. On my first visit I was already making mental notes on which dishes to order "next time".

Breaking the familiar pattern of sliders and pizza here is a menu that has been purposefully crafted to reflect a restaurateur's world view.

Owner Naila Naqvi's focus on comfort and warmth doesn't end at the decor and her desire to reinvent is not limited to location. Everything on the menu dutifully mirrors the spirit of the place.

Overly extensive menus are usually frustrating, but this one makes sense and eclectic-fusion of cuisines is not overwrought. Comfort food has been redefined, turning familiar flavours into something new and different.

This is not fine dining but it's not aiming to be. It is a celebration of honest cooking inventive celebrating updated comfort food made with the best ingredients without a hint of pretension.

Chatterbox offers a full range of healthy smoothies, mocktails, teas and other beverages to complement their menu. The presentation is as playful as the combination of flavours, as all drinks come in adorable mason jars.

The refreshing cucumber drink in particular is a great choice because its clean, fresh flavours open up your palate for the coming feast.

Start with the stuffed mushrooms with rocket. Tender and flavorful, these are nicely browned with a creamy cheesy filling. The rocket gives a nice contrast to the dish and makes you feel better knowing there are some decent nutrients being eaten alongside this sinful treat.

Saute Shrimp Salad combines the subtle sweetness of butterflied shrimp with the sharp acidity of the citrus dressing.

The crisp salad greens play well richness of the olives, an excellent salad dish.

Mac and cheese is of course the quintessential comfort food. Chatterbox's version is simple, but exceedingly decadent.

Pure molten cheese is thick, but gooey and the addition of spicy buffalo chicken delivers an unexpected kick. Rich, creamy, and flavourful, the Buffalo Chicken Mac & Cheese is a great twist on a classic dish.

Taking classic comfort food a notch higher is the indulgent and warming Beef Rice Bowl. A one bowl meal, it is simple and elegant and the flavours and textures of the distinct components intermingle beautifully.

Steaming hot sticky garlic rice, tender slivers of crispy beef and tart pickled vegetables were only let down by the canned mushroom. Rubbery and flavourless, they added nothing to the otherwise impeccable dish. Using canned mushrooms seemed especially egregious when we just had fresh ones in the appetiser.

The seasonally inspired Pumpkin and Prawn curry is rich and creamy but a little on the spicy side so would be perfect in winter.

Spawning from a bakery, it is little wonder that all of Chatterbox's classic deserts are worth trying.

The Chocolate Insanity and Caramel Budino should not be missed.

The Tres Leches (three milk) Cake on the other hand misses the mark. The proportion of cream to cake is overwhelming and it feels like the cake has not been given enough time to soak in the flavours of the liquid.

It's wonderful to see such unique desert items instead of the usual molten chocolate cake and bread and butter pudding, but it needs to be refined further.

Service is prompt and friendly, even in the face of the huge crowds the café attracts. The serving size is smaller than average, but that's actually a blessing when there are so many diverse dishes to try.

The individual dishes are very reasonably priced, but a full meal with appetisers, soup, salad and a shared desert comes to around Rs1,400 per head.

With its relocation to a new location, Chatterbox has reached full maturity. Naila Naqvi's hands on approach belie her dedication and passion for the restaurant. She has introduced signature dishes that are not available in other cafés and restaurants.

As long as this endless reinvention continues to be a theme, Chatterbox will stand out from the crowd while being a crowd pleaser.


Rating: 4/5

Food: 4 | Ambiance: 5 | Service: 4.5 | Value for money: 4


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