Pan Asian cuisine has always been known for its blend of complex flavours, and at Tao, you can experience it all. There is something for everyone.

However, it falls into neither the 'mindblowing' nor 'terrible' categories, and is a space where different people with different tastes can find something they like. Unlikely to be anyone's favourite restaurant, it is equally unlikely to a hated spot. Tao is pleasant, inoffensive and safely middle of the road.

While many restaurants are polarising, Tao's perfect averageness actually makes it universally acceptable.

Located at the Boat Basin, Karachi, Tao is a casual dining restaurant offering a wide range of traditional and contemporary dishes in a relaxed and cosy space. It's a welcome addition to the diversity of flavours, even while it does not offer anything exceptional.

Combining elegance and a refined ambiance, Tao achieves a rare zen-like balance evoking a sophisticated vibe. The soft lighting and unique cool interiors are both comforting and calming.

The space has been utilised very well with a variety of seating options, accommodating a cosy dinner for two, a meal with a large group of friends or perhaps a live sushi bar where you can sit on stools as your sushi is prepared right in front of you. But it is the splash of a fountain that you notice almost immediately as you enter Tao which allows for a soothing and relaxed atmosphere.

The menu has an extensive array of modern Asian cuisine with a variety that comprises the full spectrum of flavours ensuring that there is something for everyone. With wide ranging choices from soups, starters, salads, and sushi the main courses start on the sixth page of the menu. By keeping a Pan Asian theme the restaurant is able to serve an assortment of dishes ranging from Japanese to Thai to Chinese. Most of this is traditional fare injected with subtle continental influences.

It would have been nice to be served a bread basket or some kind of amuse-bouche before the meal. Anything to nibble on while customers wait, even something as simple as green tea would be appreciated. It is subtle little touches like that make dining out special, and the absence of this detail is felt strongly.

When our starter of 'assorted nigiri' did arrive, it was disappointing. The fish itself was fresh and sweet, but the proportions were off. The rice lacked the sticky sweetness that is expected and its disproportionate quantity made the 'nigiri' bland.

Likewise the 'Crispy California' rolls lacked their signature crunch of fresh cucumber and fish roe. The crispy topping was more doughy than crispy and there was no real contrast of flavours or textures. The owner was kind enough to replace them, but even the new rolls showed no improvement.

Covered in a rich, sweet glaze, the 'Salmon Teriyaki' might have been interesting if it was not overcooked. Salmon should have a silken texture and melt in your mouth, this was dry and rough to the extent that the excellent teriyaki sauce could not save it.

Recommended by the server, the 'Crispy Beef' was very good. Richly flavoured and juicy despite being thin cut it had a serious kick and was satisfying.

'Spicy Crispy Vegetables' was a personal favourite with its play on textures and unique tangy sauce. Deliciously crisp on the outside and soft and tender inside, it was deceptively simple — definitely a dish one worth returning.

'Pad Thai' is an iconic and popular Thai dish and mandatory to fully experience the cuisine. Chewy rice noodles with bean sprouts tofu create an interesting blend of flavours without one note overpowering the others. The earthiness of the noodles was lovely, but it could have used a touch of lime.

The drinks may have been the best part of the meal. Instead of leaving it as an afterthought, the drinks seem to be specifically designed to complement all the dishes well. The 'mint ginger lemonade' was refreshing (because of the mint) and exciting (because of the ginger). If you are in the mood for something fruitier, the strawberry lemonade is also excellent.

Taking into account the generous portions, much of which had to be packed up for later, the bill of about Rs1,500 per head is relatively reasonable.

It is a credit to the restaurateurs that they are taking this initial opening period seriously and looking to improve by earnestly asking for and responding to feedback. The service was impeccable with the waiters being attentive but not annoying.

They were knowledgeable and made helpful suggestions without being overbearing or trying to push a particular dish. The owner acknowledged our issues with the food and was incredibly polite. Although the food was middling, the dedication and care taken with customers were admirable.

Tao doesn't really have the "best" of anything. Other Asian eateries in Karachi all have their specialties. 'Sakura' is better for sushi, 'Fuchsia' is better for sharing, 'Noodle House' is better for modern fusion, 'Chairman Mao' is better for value for money and 'China Kitchen' is better for authenticity. But Tao is the only place which has all these things under one roof— that convenience may outweigh its flaws.

With so much of the considerable menu left untried, Tao still seems like a promising new entrant to the restaurant scene.

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Rating: 4/5

Food: 3 | Ambiance: 4.5 | Service: 5 | Value for money: 3.5

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Hala Syed is a culture critic who writes on television, fashion and food.