Talking about fashion usually entails talking about models and designers and misses out on the cotton pickers, weavers, tailors, artisans and shopkeepers who form an integral part of Pakistan's rapidly growing fashion industry. It is therefore imperative to recognise the global potential of this relatively young but increasingly influential industry. To this end, the British Council partnering with the Fashion Pakistan Council held a panel discussion titled “Talking Fashion: Policy, Infrastructure and Sustainability" at the Indus Valley School of Arts and Architecture.

Putting aside the glamour and showmanship side of fashion, the discourse focused on the nitty gritty foundations of the industry, collaboration with the UK and the role of the Pakistani government.

Wardha Saleem, the CEO of Fashion Pakistan Council, stated that 2014 had been a landmark year for Pakistani fashion and envisioned further development and reinvention inside the industry locally as well as internationally.

A recent research report undertaken by the British Council and the University of Leeds on the "Cultural and Creative Industries in Pakistan” which was referenced during the discussion identified strengths and hurdles facing the industry. The panel agreed that with 15 per cent of the Pakistani working population involved in the creative sector, it was necessary to spend time talking with industry professionals (including designers, retailers, and media) openly about solutions.

The panel consisted of British Council Director Peter Upton, Secretary Trade Development Authority Pakistan Rabia Javeri, Member of National Assembly Nafisa Shah and UK-based fashion consultant Craig Speller.

Rabia Javeri highlighted the importance of Pakistani designers making use of this very opportune moment in time saying the zero rated duty on exports has led to an unprecedented growth of 19 per cent in the United Kingdom.

The TDAPs initiative to promote heritage and culture is admirable and their plan for a truck-art themed double decker London bus is in the works.

Craig Speller presented a comprehensive breakdown of the UK fashion industry and recognised the potential for Pakistan to develop a presence in the retail market emphasising the need for branding and persistence.

Moreover, Nafisa Shah encouraged the development of ethical fashion to ensure that rural artisans do not get marginalised. This is significant not only from a humanitarian perspective but makes good business sense as well because the modern consumer is aware of where the product is coming from.

The panelists agreed that while finance and business liquidity was key for startups, the fashion industry needed to speak with a collective voice and full weight in order to achieve real goals. More united participation here could ensure greater bargaining power with which to take advantage of the many government policies in place.

With much of the fashion fraternity in attendance, the conference brought out a number of grievances and impediments faced by the fledgling industry. Designers, media personnel, educationists and retailers all have a role to play.

While there is increase in the designer talent pool, designers need to get more serious about their brands as businesses. Fashion shows that serve as glamorous parties should be excised in favour of research and development and brand building. The gap between the academia and the industry can be bridged through placement programs so that budding designers have entrepreneurial know-how as well as artistic skills. The design and manufacturing industries need to be synergised to maximise the potential of this agricultural country. Textile is already a major export, there is no reason this cannot be expanded to include clothing.

The need for some kind of a fashion forum for these issues to be addressed is apparent and the discussion was a wonderful first step to connect and unify the fashion industry. Whether this discussion can lead to tangible results is yet to be seen but it is pointing the industry in the right direction. The British Council has been integral in initiating the conversation and one hopes that they can further collaborate with the Pakistan Fashion Council to facilitate and develop international projects.

Even though the symposium focused on inadequacies and problems, there was an undercurrent of hope. CEO British Council Ciaran Devane was excited about visiting Pakistan. “Different people understanding each other and fostering a relationship makes the world a better place. Pakistan is a country which has a very vibrant fashion industry. It’s where talent and creativity shine.”

With such a bright and encouraging start, 2015 is poised to be a breakthrough year with more communication and fashion professionals finding common ground to optimise the industry. The resources are not as limited as they seem and the world is ready for a coherent, well-executed and a truly Pakistan brand.

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All photographs have been taken by Umar Farooq

Hala Syed is a culture critic who writes on television, fashion and food.