Chana chaat, a sub-continental favourite, transcends borders, ethnicities, religion, caste and colour. Come Ramazan, tea time, dinners, and even at breakfast, the chana chaat is ever present.

One of my favourite things about the chana chaat is that all cooks make and serve it a little differently, giving it their own personal twist. The garnishes are always different, the chutney and masalas served on the side can be of any variety, ranging from the hot haree and lal chutney to sweet and tarter imli, amchur and nembo chutney.

Fundamentally, chana chaat is a simple salad, loaded with carbohydrates and an explosion of flavour.

The base could be just chickpeas, boiled potatoes, fried fritters or papri (crackers), dahi bara, samosa, and/or a variety of puffed rice, legume or chickpea snacks, served with chutney, sauces and dahi (yogurt), topped with chopped vegetables such as tomatoes, onions, green chillie and boiled potatoes, and garnished with cilantro, mint and a kick of chaat masala.

According to food historian Lizzie Collingham,

In 16th and 17th century Hindustan, the staple food of the rural peasant and also of the urban artisans and labourers was kitchri, a simple dish of two grains, usually rice and lentils, cooked in water. Every region had a variation on the recipe according to which crop they grew as a staple crop. This millet sometimes replaced the rice and the chickpeas replaced the lentils. Tavernier, the 17th century French traveller, wrote that the soldiers dipped their fingers in pickles and butter while eating kitchri, and various other spices and peppers.

Perhaps, chana chaat is a variation of the same.

Chanay (chickpea or garbanzo), is a Ramazan staple. The mothers in the desi realm mostly serve chana chaat come iftar during the blessed month. And there is variety to choose from, namely kala chana, kabuli chana and the list of legumes goes on.

Chanay is a legume, and when legumes are hulled and split it is observed that they make for easy cooking and digestion. The subcontinent is known for innovatively cooking chanay in a variety of ways. We serve spicy packaged chanay snacks and chana choor garam sold by the wandering neighbourhood vendour, chana chaat, chanay key daal ka halwa and the ever favourite chikaar choolay, a Punjabi delight.

The interesting thing about chickpeas is that it may be eaten as a whole or as a split pulse; and it is the grains that are used as cholay chana.

Chickpea has been known to Asia and Europe for over ten thousand years and was cultivated in both continents. Archeologists claim that its earliest cultivation may have been in the regions encompassing the Mediterranean, Persia, Afghanistan and the lands surrounding it.

History suggests that the subcontinent may also have been its place of birth; hence the wide use of chickpea in Pakistan, India and the Mediterranean ranging from hummus, pakora, puri chana, dal ka halwa and the list goes on.

Max Falkowitz, the national editor at Serious Eats, in his article titled Top Chaat best describes it saying the following;

Chaat isn't a single dish; it's a category of astonishingly diverse preparations. Even in a culture that loves its snack food, chaat stands out in the [subcontinent] India as one of the few universals. Every region has their own chaat, and every cook does their own spin.

On the beaches of Mumbai [and the streets of Karachi], you might find bhelpuri, a chaat made from puffed rice and other crispy bits; in Bengal, the same rice is dosed with a sinus-clearing kick of mustard oil for a dish called jaal muri.

Chaat isn't generally part of a meal; it's a snack eaten in between: after school or work, in the lingering hours before dinner. In a culture that doesn't go wild over alcohol, meeting for chaat can replace meeting for drinks or coffee.

The recipe I share with you today is my dear friend Shehla’s. The chana chaat she makes is legendary; a great hit among our group of friends. Here it is from my kitchen to yours.

Ingredients

2 cups chanay (soak overnight in five cups of water and 1/3 tsp. soda)
¼ to ½ cup ghur (jaggery), optional
½ to 1 tsp. black salt, or to taste
½ tsp. cumin seeds, roasted and ground
¼ to ½ cup tamarind chutney
1 to 2 potatoes (boiled (in water with yellow food colouring) and chopped in small squares
2 to 3 tbsp. finely chopped onions

Method

Boil chana until completely tender, once boiled set aside and add jaggery, let cool and add all other ingredients.

Garnish with chopped green chillie, cilantro, sliced round onions, sliced tomatoes and serve with a side of chutney, yogurt, chaat masala, papri or any other desired side.