Pharwala in ruins — The defeat of South Asia's most invincible fort
Believed to be built in the 11th century by Sultan Kaigohar Gakhar on the ruins of an ancient fort, the Pharwala Fort in Potohar, Pakisan is the most unassailable fort in South Asia. It is well protected by high ridges on one end and deep ravines on the other. While its fortification wall has disappeared from many places, its opulence is visible from the walls and gates on the North Western side.
The fort has long been associated with the fearless clan of Gakhars, who are known for their bravery and fighting skills. The Gakhars have played an important role in setting the course of history in the Potohar region across the centuries, more often routing their opponents. This, however, has resulted in fierce rivalries with neighboring clans, most notably with the Janjuas of the Potohar region. It was on their advice that the great Mughal emperor Babur launched a campaign to conquer the Gakhar stronghold in 1519.
Gakhars, despite their strategic positioning, could not stand the might of Babur’s army and escaped through narrow gorges on the northern side of the fort.
However, an accord was met between Babur and the Gakhar chieftains’ which had lasting consequences over the politics of the region. As it turned out, the Gakhars remained loyal to the Mughals and even supported Humayun in his exile. Shershah, who took over the rest of the Mughal Empire, could never take away Pharwala Fort from the resilient Gakhars and later ordered the construction of the Rohtas Fort to quell Gakhar's resistance.
Whenever I have some time off from work in Islamabad, I visit the historic landmarks scattered across the Potohar landscape. There is so much to do there that it can keep any tourist occupied for several days.
One of the oldest forts in the region, it doesn't attract as many visitors as the more popular and easily accessible Rohta and Rawat forts. But once you visit it and hear the stories narrated by the locals and guides, you realise that all the forts are connected; their ties stained with conflict and blood.
I decide to drive down to the Pharwala Fort in Potohar, which is 40kms away from Rawalpindi. A good friend of mine lent me his car and driver for the purpose, and we set off for the trip together.
A few hours into the journey, I ask the driver, Adil, if he knows of any breakfast places nearby. He promptly suggests a few swanky restaurants on the way but I insist that he take me to a roadside dhaba.