A Mumbaikar in Karachi: 'Tum bilkul hum jaisey nikley'
I studied in one of the most international campuses in the USA. Apart from getting a great education, I was able to interact and forge lasting friendships with a number of Pakistani students — an opportunity that would have never been afforded to me had I remained in India.
At Mount Holyoke College (my alma mater), there were no glaring differences between Pakistanis and Indians — we were all simply desis.
Through our conversations, we realised that the issues we held dear were often the same. For instance, students from both sides of the border were concerned about socio-economic and political inclusivity of minorities in the mainstream (or lack thereof), issues of women’s safety, rights and male privilege, and religious extremism extending into public life.
Also read: Why Pakistani students need to stand in solidarity with JNU
Over the next four years in college, the novelty of having more Pakistani friends than of other nationalities put together wore off — conversations revolving Partition slowly became stale.
People I spoke to on either side of the border — both on-and off-campus — would emphasise that 'we’re all just the same … living apart because of our governments … this wouldn’t have happened hadn’t it been for Gandhi/Nehru/Jinnah/insert other historical figures here'.
I would disregard this talk, or be irked by it. It was repeated too often and had lost its significance, I thought. What was the point?
Thinking that we are one, therefore longing for people-to-people contact, cultural exchanges…what good does it do?
India’s foreign policy towards Pakistan — and Pakistan’s foreign policy towards India — is shaped by factors much bigger and more complex than the bonds between people — a minuscule percentage of whom actually get to meet each other — and that too, ironically, in campuses abroad.
The borders are still as solid as ever, hostile propaganda spread by state and non-state actors in both countries is still widely covered, believed and repeated, and conversations revolving around peace and amity do not receive a fraction of the attention and seriousness that they deserve.
What then is the tangible outcome of a wishful, ‘but aren’t we the same’ chorus by a small minority?
There is a crippling sense of helplessness that accompanies people’s comments. The assertion that we’re all the same is somehow an unrealisable yearning to connect with the neighbour, since physical connect is rendered nearly impossible.
Furthermore, looking at the stagnant state of India-Pakistan official talks, there is intense skepticism regarding large-scale people-to-people contact happening anytime soon.
Also read: Pakistanis seem to love Indians. Do Indians feel the same way?
I consider myself extremely fortunate to have defied the odds of a long, bureaucratic visa procedure and visited Pakistan twice in two years.
During my last visit, I spent over a month in Karachi on account of the wedding of a dear Pakistani friend from Mount Holyoke.
I had first-hand experience of people’s homes and their ways of life. Subtle and not-so-subtle influences that Mumbai had on Karachi became apparent.
I experienced the enormous extent to which Bollywood had influenced the wedding culture of the country. Or that the craze for Indian jewellery in Pakistan had inspired store owners to name their shops Tanishq or PC Jewelers.
More importantly, I had the opportunity to make new friends, interact and forge connections with people from different socio-economic backgrounds, and all ages and stages in life.
As I reflect on my time there, I am compelled to consider the question beyond the (narrow) realm of political developments and foreign policy changes.
My own experience in Pakistan was extremely positive — a refutation of the official and non-official hostile Indian propaganda about its neighbour.
Except for four days spent in a hotel in Lahore, I lived with my closest friends and their families, who all went out of their way to make me feel comfortable and loved.
Our conversations were rarely about politics. For the most part, we were eager to gain a sense of the characteristics and idiosyncrasies of each other’s homes, families, friends and cities.
Of mobility and movement
We spoke about the transport systems, food, art and culture — comparing and contrasting what we found convenient and what we thought was concerning. Our conversations amalgamated into putting public spaces on both sides of the border into perspective.
On the face of it, Karachi and Mumbai don’t resemble each other as much as I had imagined.