Italian climber Simone Moro, one of the world's leading alpinists, speaks with AFP during an interview in Islamabad.—AFP Nanga Parbat, with one of the highest death rates in the world, earned its grisly nickname after more than 30 climbers died trying to conquer it before the first successful summit in 1953.
Climbing it in winter's treacherous conditions would remain a feat unattained until Moro and his team — Alex Txikon of Spain and Pakistani climber Ali Sadpara — made their historic summit on February 26.
One member of their team, Tamara Lunger from Italy, was forced to abandon her attempt just 170 metres from the peak.
She could see Sadpara waving at her from the summit, she said, but she knew she had pushed her body to its limit.
“My muscles felt very bad... I was vomiting the whole day and everything I ate or drank came out again."
Hesitating, she asked herself if she was sad — but the choice was clear.
“I said okay, if you go to the top now you will not go home... and I turned around and went down."
Altitude of a jumbo jet
Nanga Parbat's fearsome Rupal face, rising more than 4,000 metres from base to top, presents one of the most difficult — and tantalising — challenges in climbing.
Moro said the team, which climbed without oxygen, had little time to acclimatise themselves, spending just one night at 6,200 metres before making the push toward the summit.
“When you want to go the altitude of a jumbo flight without oxygen you need to be acclimatised,” he said, admitting that a “big question mark” hung over their expedition as they began the final climb.