Amid the vast cultural and historic landscape of Hyderabad lies the shrine of Shaheed Sarfaraz Kalhoro. Sindh has a thriving mazar culture and myriad shrines, yet there is something very unique about Kalhoro’s shrine. The mazar primarily attracts women, regardless of their age or disposition, from far and wide.

Sarfaraz Kalhoro was a descendant of the Kalhoro dynasty that ruled Sindh before the Talpurs. His father was the founder of Hyderabad and architect of Shah Abdul Latif Bhitai shrine in the Matiari District.

After his demise and the subsequent construction of his shrine, women have flocked to the site in search of good fortune. On the 20th of Safar, these women perform Pallay Bharaee, a ritual consisting of distributing coins, sweets and other paraphernalia.

The beginnings of a tradition

There are many local legends as to why women continue to visit Sarfaraz Baba’s shrine.

“We have heard from our elders that some woman who travelled from a far flung area had her prayer answered at this shrine,” says Khalid Ali, a local.

In an adjacent mosque, Ali narrates a story about certain elders believing that Sarfaraz Kalhoro’s torso is buried in the main shrine, while his head is buried in a grave near Station Road. “Sarfaraz Baba embraced martyrdom in a battle,” he says without expanding on the story.

Yet another tale of the shrine’s significance involves Sarfaraz Kalhoro’s mother. Many believe that after his death she prayed upon his grave, much like the women do today. She prayed for justice for her son’s death.

Some say it is this ritual that many daughters, sisters and mothers continue till this day, hoping for justice and solace in their own lives.

Devoted to Sarfaraz Baba

“Look at this woman. She is thankful as her manat [wish] has been fulfilled,” says Shabnam, pointing to a pilgrim relaying coins.

A resident of Latifabad, young Shabnam herself is a steadfast devotee. She believes that she owes her husband’s recent success to Sarfaraz Baba. In the past, her husband was unable to hold on to a job; despite persistent efforts business refused to catch on. All that changed after her manat at the mazar.

“For the last one year he has found consistency in a [food] business,” she narrates, amid the clamour from nearby visitors.

There is a festive atmosphere around the shrine. Vendors try to offload artificial jewellery while others are busy hawking fruit, sweets and other food items.

Visitors often bring tomatoes, threads, sweets and bangles as offerings at the mazar. There is a system in place: If a woman is aspiring to have a child, she will offer tomatoes or tie orange and green coloured threads. Bangles are offered by women looking to get married. Offering coins is meant to advance professional ambitions or bring prosperity.

Popular culture

Repeated announcements for women to take care of their belongings ring out over speakers; police patrol the surrounding areas. Roads leading up to Sarfaraz Baba’s shrine are barricaded as the event of Pallay Bharaee coincides with the Chehlum of Imam Hussain.

Outside an adjacent mosque a distraught girl asks for help: “Brother, can you help us, please? We have lost our purse with Rs17,000.” Volunteers instead guide her towards the police camp set up nearby

Managing the large event is never an easy task.

“Women started crowding the shrine after sunset on Sunday, at maghrib prayers, although the ritual starts around the morning prayer of 20th Safar,” says Mubin Khan, chairman of the Auqaf Department’s committee that supervises activities for the shrine and adjacent mosque.

Shrine management tries to organise and facilitate visitors despite limited resources.

“It becomes difficult to assist so many visitors,” Khan says. In an effort to better manage the event, this year separate entry and exit points have been assigned.

As the day proceeds, crowds continue to gush in from the entry point, hoping to have their prayers answered.

Amongst them is Shahida Begum who has been visiting the shrine since 1986. “I firmly believe God will and can bestow His bounties even if we sit at home. But we can approach God through the pious man buried in this shrine.” Last year Shahida Begum prayed for a grandson and her son was blessed with a child shortly after. “That is why I am here to pay my respects.”