I grew up in the plains of Hyderabad, Sindh. Often travelling to and from Karachi, I would notice the mountains near Thano Bola Khan with wonder and excitement.
How would these mountains look up close? What lies above them? What lies beyond them? These questions often intrigued me as a child.
My first encounter with mountains occurred when I visited Islamabad for a conference in the third year of my engineering programme. I was struck by the beauty of the Margalla Hills and wanted to move to Islamabad.
The dream came true when I found employment in the federal capital in 2003 after I completed my engineering degree. This allowed me an opportunity to explore the various trails in the Margalla Hills, and whenever work permitted, to go up north for trekking.
I now live and work in Saudi Arabia and do not have the luxury of driving to the trailhead after work on weekends. To quench my thirst, I plan one long trip a year into the mountains.
After an excellent trip to K2 Base Camp last year, I wanted something just as adventurous this time around as well.
Panoramic view from Kala Pathar. Trekkers arrive in the afternoon to view Mt. Everest. Milestones left to right: Khumbutse (6,636m), Changtse (7,543m, in Tibet), Lho Laa (6,006m), Khumbu Icefall, Everest (8,848m), Nuptse (7,861m), Nuptse Icefall and Ama Dablam (6,812m).
Because of work commitments, I could only go on a trip in November, but most of the mountains in the northern hemisphere are inaccessible at that time due to the weather.
Luckily, however, the Mount Everest Base Camp trek was still open. The weather is cold in the Himalayas at this time of the year but the skies are clear.
I didn’t know anyone who had been to Everest Base Camp before, so I started searching for trip planners online.
Many local and international trekking companies offer this trek with fixed departure dates and itineraries where one can sign up and join a group.
Once with a company, all you have to do is show up at Kathmandu airport. The trekking company is responsible for all the arrangements; that includes flights to and from Lukla, lodging in Kathmandu and on the trail, food, etc.
The trek cost also varies from $800 to $2000 depending on the company and the services. Some popular operators are Himalayan Wonders and Ian Taylor Trekking .
After discussing my trip with a few tour operators, I signed up with Himalayan Ecstasy, a local operator based out of Nepal.
It’s a small company run by Anil Bhattarai , a two-time Everest summiteer who now manages the company and guides only summit climbs.
He was very thorough in answering all my questions and in him I found someone who could help me progress from trekking to climbing in the future.
If you are already in Kathmandu then you can hire a guide for a much cheaper cost. Solo trekking with no guide is the cheapest option, but then you will have to manage all the logistics on the trek.
The Tenzing-Hillary Airport, Lukla.
After climbs of Kilimanjaro and K2 Base Camp, I already had most of the trekking gear that I needed for this trek.
My gear includes a couple of base layers (long-sleeved, breathable shirts), hiking pants, a mid layer (fleece jacket), rain jacket and pants, hard shell jacket and pants (for summit), a warm beanie, lining gloves and hard outer gloves, some hiking socks, sturdy hiking boots, hiking poles, a backpack to carry water and other items needed on the trek, and a big duffel bag which would carry everything else.
I also carried with me medicines that I would need in case I fell ill. These included medications for altitude sickness, fever, allergies, diarrhea, cold and cough, nausea and vomiting, and pain killers. When heading into the mountains, hope for the best but prepare for the worst.
To truly enjoy the experience, one must be fit enough to trek up to 10km or more a day at high altitudes. While on the trail, I saw many people who were struggling with altitude sickness and breathing problems.
Most of us live at lower altitudes and will struggle at higher altitudes due to lower levels of oxygen. Regular workouts at the gym, running, and bicycling are good ways to train for this adventure.
A month before the trip, I was weight training in the morning and biking 20km or more in the evening for cardio training.
Even then, the lack of oxygen at higher altitudes can make the climb difficult.
Ready to take on the challenge, a month later, one early morning in November, I embarked on yet another thrill-seeking adventure, flying from Dammam and landing in Kathmandu.
Trekkers usually spend a day in Kathmandu before heading to the Everest trek, but I didn’t waste any time and had my connecting flight to Lukla scheduled for the same day.