How to do landscape photography like a professional
I spent over a decade living in the UK and photographing the British landscape, not as it is, but as I see it in my mind. As the great Ansel Adams said: “You don’t take a picture. You make it.”
In order to become a good photographer, one needs to master not only the technical craft but also the art of photography. And this is easier said than done.
Photography is the art of crafting light. The word ‘photograph’ has Greek roots – being a combination of 'phos' (light) and 'graphé' (drawing).
I captured images using a variety of different photographic techniques including neutral density filters, high dynamic range photography (HDR), tone mapping, stacking, exposure blending and digital panorama stitching.
The science of photography
A photographer’s medium is light itself and one needs to understand its properties and behaviour. Light is unique in the sense that it is both particle and wave.
Exposure
As a photographer, we are always trying to capture just the right amount of light to create a photographic exposure. Too much light and the exposure is too high, resulting in all the brighter parts of the scene, such as clouds in the sky, losing all texture and tonal detail and rendering an area of solid white.
Too little and the darker areas of the image and middle values, such as the ground, trees and foliage come out completely black.
The units of measure for light generally used in photography are called stops. Every time a stop is increased, the amount of light is doubled.
The human eye can see about 16 stops of light at any given time. This is a sliding range that can adapt itself over a 20-stop absolute range.
For example, when one walks into a cinema, it takes a moment for one to adjust to the low light as one’s iris opens up to allow for more light.
Similarly, when one walks into bright sunlight, it takes a while for one’s iris to close down and adjust to the sun. In both scenarios, one’s eyes are showing about 16 stops of light but have adjusted by about an extra four stops to adapt to the environment.
Aperture
Just like the iris in our eye, camera lenses have an aperture (opening) built in that gives the photographer control over the amount of light coming through the lens.
The aperture size is measured in f-stops and written as f/[number] - the smaller the number, the wider the aperture.
Whilst wide apertures allow more light in, they also result in shallower depth of field. Depth of field is the volume in front of the camera where objects appear to be in focus.
Small apertures tend to generate greater depth of field at the cost of reducing the light that comes through to the sensor.
One-third of the depth of field extends from the point of focus towards the camera whilst two-thirds of the depth of field extends beyond the point of focus.