As a culture that takes immense pride in its cuisine and culinary traditions, France appears to be having some difficulty dealing with 21st century realities. Prime Minister Marcon’s impassioned defence of the iconic French baguette was recently discussed in this column (January 28, 2018), now it’s grilled kebabs that some argue are tainting the French landscape. In June 2017, the port city of Marseille cracked down on its street food vendors, almost all of whom were kebab vendors. Accusations of ‘gastronomic racism’ were heard on the streets and in the media.

The kebab controversy is not new; the alarm of ‘kebabisation’ was initially raised in 2014 during the run-up to local elections when a right-wing party warned of the numerous kebab shops invading French society. The reference to kebab was literal (the meat was being handled and prepared in unhygienic conditions they said) and also figurative. Kebab is shorthand for foreigner, North African, Arab, Muslim … take your pick.

According to a well-syndicated Reuters article written by Alexandria Sage, kebabs can be found everywhere in France — cities and towns, supermarket freezers and drive-throughs. There are even kebab-flavoured potato chips available on market shelves. An estimated 300 million kebabs at about six euros each are eaten in 10,200 outlets in France each year, making this 1.5 billion euro (1.9 billion US dollar) industry third after burgers and pizza.

Kebabs are being politicised, allegedly causing an identity crisis in France

Kebabs became popular in Western Europe during the 1990s courtesy of Turkish immigrants and “guest workers” living in Germany. The fad soon spread to the United Kingdom where the local “chippy” now usually features doner kebab alongside traditional fish and chips. The Lebanese, Algerian, and Moroccan communities residing in France easily adopted the kebab and adapted it for French consumption by serving it in crusty bread with French fries.

The appeal of kebabs is not limited to any particular group in France; just as it is eaten by customers of all ages and backgrounds, so is it cooked and served by restaurant owners belonging to all backgrounds. Damien Schmitz is a pioneer in the gourmet kebab sector who owns four restaurants that promote “le kebab chic”. Schmitz wonders why Japanese sushi and Italian pizza did not generate the same outrage among some cultural critics as kebabs.

It is said that there are about 40 different types of kebabs found throughout Turkey, each associated with a particular region or city. Among the kebabs commonly found in Istanbul as well as in Turkish restaurants around the world are the Adana, Urfa, and Shish kebabs. Adana and Urfa are (respectively) named for the cities in south-eastern Turkey where they originated, while Shish (or Sis in Turkish) refers to the skewer (seekh in Urdu) on which the meat is cooked. And while all these kebabs may be cooked indoors or on a gas-powered grill, the ideal and preferred way is to grill them over a charcoal fire.

URFA KEBAB

INGREDIENTS

1 1/2 pound ground lamb meat
Salt to taste
2 teaspoons ground cumin
2 tablespoons ground sumac
2 tablespoon ground red pepper flakes
2 tablespoons ice-cold water

METHOD

Combine meat with two teaspoons salt, one teaspoon cumin, two teaspoons sumac, and one tablespoon pepper flakes. Knead by hand until mixture turns tacky and starts sticking to the side of the bowl. Add ice-cold water and continue kneading until incorporated. Place in refrigerator and chill well.

Meanwhile, combine remaining one teaspoon cumin, two teaspoons sumac, remaining pepper flakes, and two teaspoons salt in a small bowl. Set spice mixture aside. Combine remaining two teaspoons sumac and salt to taste with sliced red onions in a bowl and set aside.

Using wet hands, divide the meat mixture into 12 even balls and form each ball into a long, flat kebab around a skewer.

When the charcoal is ready, oil the grill and place kebabs directly over hot side of grill, cover, and cook, turning occasionally and sprinkling with spice mixture until well charred on both sides and kebabs are cooked through, about 12 minutes.

Serve kebabs with warm bread, sumac onions, parsley, tomatoes and pickled peppers.

CLASSIC SHISH KEBAB

INGREDIENTS

2 pounds beef sirloin or tenderloin, cut into
one-inch cubes
Salt to taste
1/2 cup olive oil
1 tablespoon white vinegar
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon garlic, minced

METHOD

One day prior to grilling, prepare marinade by combining olive oil, vinegar, cumin, coriander, paprika, and garlic. Allow beef cubes to marinate in the refrigerator.

When ready to grill, thread meat onto skewers that have been sprayed with cooking oil. Sprinkle with salt to taste. If grilling vegetables, thread them onto separate skewers because they cook differently than meat.

Spray grill with cooking oil to prevent sticking. Grill for five to seven minutes on each side or until desired doneness. Serve kebabs over a bed of buttered rice, with grilled veggies, salad and/or pita bread.

Published in Dawn, EOS, February 25th, 2018