As we grow older the production of collagen, a protein produced by cells that provide firmness and elasticity to the skin in our body, slows down. With age, the skin loses its elasticity and begins to sag, and fine lines and wrinkles around the eyes, forehead and mouth appear, along with the slowing down of other bodily functions. As skin changes are quite obvious people, especially women, turn to using anti-ageing products available generally in the market.

But we have to stop and think if these anti-ageing products are safe, effective and what is the right age to use them? The global market for anti-ageing products is growing at 5.8 percent annually. The market worth 250 billion dollars in 2016 is expected to reach 331.41 billion dollars by 2021. Gone are the days when only women in their 60s would care to use these products. Now cosmetologists are recommending anti-ageing and firming products to women in their late 20s and early 30s to prevent the onset of ageing and appearance of fine lines on the face. Face washes promise ‘perfect 30s’ and salespersons at malls will recommend an anti-ageing lipstick if you happen to be on a vacation abroad and in your 30s. 

Does it makes sense to spend a fortune on these products or should one embrace ageing and age gracefully? Dr Amber Usman, a cosmetologist and dermatologist says that over-the-counter cosmetic products are not very effective since the manufacturers are not allowed to use beyond a certain percentage of medication in their formulation. She says that cosmeceutical products (a cross between pharmaceutical and cosmetic products) have greater efficacy and reduce ageing symptoms by 20 percent to 30 percent. However, most people are happy using cosmetic and over-the-counter imported products as they nonetheless make the skin soft and smooth and are not as expensive as products recommended by dermatologists.

Do wrinkle-reducing and glow-inducing treatments get the job done?

Dr Hamid Zaki, another dermatologist, says that the effectiveness of anti-ageing products varies from patient-to-patient depending on their hormonal status and age. He is of the opinion that a healthy lifestyle and positive outlook on life itself translates into a glowing and radiant skin for women. Many dermatologists would not prescribe an anti-ageing product unless a woman asks for one.

Dr Usman says that women in Asian countries age much earlier as compared to their Western counterparts. There are multiple reasons behind this, such as lesser exposure to sunlight and greater awareness about diet, beauty and health in general in the West. It is also argued that wrinkles and fine lines are not as visible on fair skin as they are visible on medium to dark skin. As such Dr Yousuf A. Aziz, another dermatologist, rules out any dermatological reason behind this phenomenon.

Dr Usman, on the other hand, cites various factors such as exposure to sunlight, iron and Vitamin D deficiencies in women, stress, pollution and even constipation that exacerbates pre-mature ageing of the skin. She says, due to constipation toxic substances are retained within the body, affecting the skin. Research has also shown that more than the required intake of sugary snacks and food speeds up the ageing process and affects the skin.

All dermatologists agree that any product that produces quick results is unsafe. Dr Usman cautions against the use of local anti-ageing products since they do not always contain those elements that are mentioned on the packaging. Dr Aziz mentions the use of steroids in many over-the-counter products that result in thinning of skin.

Beauticians, on the other hand, advise that one should take regular monthly sessions of anti-ageing facials such as the collagen facial; it will cost you a substantial portion of your hard-earned income. It’s not just collagen facials that are expensive; the cost of most of these facials range between 6,500 rupees to 10,000 rupees for one sitting at a reputed salon. Some well-known and established salons offer serums (since they are milder and more liquid, they are able to penetrate more easily) to be used at home, that ensure skin-firming and elasticity. If you think that’s costly, then you can’t ignore the 24 karat gold facial — a rage in the skin care world nowadays. Gold has wondrous properties in that it helps renew cells at the basal level of the skin and slows down the declining level of collagen. It has been used for decades to fight inflammation occurring in arthritis. The 24-karat gold facial improves elasticity, reduces dryness and ensures an even skin tone. This facial is fast becoming the mainstay in the global skincare and beauty industry. When gold particles are applied to skin they brighten it and its antioxidant properties help in rejuvenating the skin surface. These facials are popular among celebrities and models when prepping for red-carpet events. Beauty experts around the world are also offering do-it-yourself masks that provide similar benefits and a respite from a 60-minute treatment at the clinic. The combination of an anti-wrinkle mask with gold leaf provides a healthy glow to the skin while evening out an imperfect complexion.

Apart from salon treatments cosmetologists and dermatologists offer various procedures involving skin rejuvenation which include laser treatments, botox, fillers and radio frequency. The cost for these procedures varies from practitioner to practitioner and locality to locality. The range for laser treatments for sagging skin varies from 10,000 rupees to 15,000 rupees for one sitting. The number of sittings depends on the need of the patient.

Chemical peeling is another cosmetic procedure in which dead skin is removed from the face. For this purpose, acidic peels that contain fruit acids are used. The cost varies from 5,000 rupees to 10,000 rupees for one sitting. While cosmetologists argue that procedures such as chemical peeling and lasers are safe and effective, the cost for complete treatment can go up to six figures depending on the need of the patient and the locality.

One cannot overlook the importance of healthy eating such as antioxidants found in vegetables, fruits and nuts. Different vegetables and fruits have different antioxidants such as Vitamin A and Vitamin C present in different ratios. Vegetables such as spinach, beet and broccoli and fruits like oranges, mangoes and strawberries should be consumed. However, as far as nuts are concerned nutritionists don’t recommend taking roasted nuts. Exercises, such as facial yoga, should be made part of your daily beauty regimen.

Aggressive marketing and advertising by manufacturers of personal care products are making these products popular but a simple step, according to Dr Usman, such as regular moisturising can delay ageing of skin. The moisturiser chosen should be a long-lasting one, as a moisturiser that is effective for two hours only is not suitable.

Another important step in achieving youthful skin is the use of sunblocks. Dr Aziz says that he usually recommends sunblocks having an SPF range of 30 to 50. Other factors such as, reduced intake of oily and sugary snacks and exposure to sun, in addition to a healthy lifestyle, should be kept in mind when planning a skin care regimen. Oily skin looks smooth in comparison to dry skin and has its own hydration mechanism. Dry skin, on the other hand, exaggerates the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines and requires sufficient moisturisation.

Published in Dawn, EOS, March 11th, 2018